Replacing PCV valves on 97 and 2000 5.0 explorers | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Replacing PCV valves on 97 and 2000 5.0 explorers

jremington59

Explorer Addict
Joined
October 28, 2009
Messages
1,933
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City, State
Watertown, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997, 99 and 2000 5.0's
I was reading these valves needed replacing every 70,000 or so, so I decided I'd do mine for the slight cost. Yea right, lol. The 2000 was a piece of cake as I only cut and skinned my arm slightly. But the 97 isn't even reachable. It has the 96 engine and that could make a difference. There's no room for the arm. I tried forcing it and still can't get close. Anyone change one on this engine? I did a google search and found a link where a guy said he just reached back there but unless his arms are very small or he has 14 inch fingers I don't see how.
 



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Turdle informed me that the engine was moved forward after this year, so after a little thought I found a fairly easy way to replace the PCV in the 97.

I'm right handed and tried going straight over the intake like with the 2000 and there was no way this would work. So I disconnected the harness above the intake next to the tranny dipstick from the bracket. Then, instead of removing the bolts to the bracket I bent the flange to the holder just a little towards the drives side. I'm not a body builder but not small and I easily went in left handed only to find the grommet with no PCV valve in it. The grommet just slops around and I found the PCV valve and it basically fell into the hole so I think I found the oil leak. For reference, for those looking for the PCV, the grommet and valve are directly in line with the top back intake bolt, straight down over the back. If your arms are exceptionally large you could remove the tranny stick or unbolt the bracket for the harness and have all kinds of room. I actually found posts where people removed the intake and another guy jacked up the back of the engine after unbolting the tranny and mount bolts.
 






i've tried to get to the PCV valves on my 2000's and 2001 v8's (same) with no luck. i know where it is and have read threads on changing it, but i don't see how it's possible (at least with my arms. they're long, but i have large hands and forearms). i'll try your method left-handed and see it i can get any closer. i was considering removing the hood. i have no particular reason for changing them, just think it would be good preventive maintenance (it's an OCD thing with me).
 






i've tried to get to the PCV valves on my 2000's and 2001 v8's (same) with no luck. i know where it is and have read threads on changing it, but i don't see how it's possible (at least with my arms. they're long, but i have large hands and forearms). i'll try your method left-handed and see it i can get any closer. i was considering removing the hood. i have no particular reason for changing them, just think it would be good preventive maintenance (it's an OCD thing with me).

LOL, same with me. You need to kneel on the bracket in front of the truck and face the windshield and lean forward over the engine. Padding under the knees is helpful. You may be able to remove the two 5/16th bolts and take the wiring block off the firewall and force your arm down in there. If not, remove the harness from the bracket by pulling out the white clip, and in my case bend it upwards out of the way and you can reach in at an angle from the left along the side of the tranny dipstick and find it. It looked like a real pia to remove the bracket off the 2000 as it has the solenoid for the egr fastened to it also, and another plate in front of it. It's still straight down in behind the back intake bolt on the 2000. Do yourself a favor and get a new grommet and valve before starting.

Oh, and it will be humorous for us if you have someone take pics of you doing this and posting them, lol.
 






LOL, same with me. You need to kneel on the bracket in front of the truck and face the windshield and lean forward over the engine. Padding under the knees is helpful. You may be able to remove the two 5/16th bolts and take the wiring block off the firewall and force your arm down in there. If not, remove the harness from the bracket by pulling out the white clip, and in my case bend it upwards out of the way and you can reach in at an angle from the left along the side of the tranny dipstick and find it. It looked like a real pia to remove the bracket off the 2000 as it has the solenoid for the egr fastened to it also, and another plate in front of it. It's still straight down in behind the back intake bolt on the 2000. Do yourself a favor and get a new grommet and valve before starting.

Oh, and it will be humorous for us if you have someone take pics of you doing this and posting them, lol.

right now i'm nursing a pinched nerve in my neck. it's just started to get better after 3 weeks, so i don't think i'll try this any time too soon, but i'll give it a try when i'm feeling 100% again. pictures would be pretty funny. i'm 6'4 300lbs. but don't count on any... lol
 






Or better yet find some little young, skinny, wiry person with a little mechanical ability to do it for you, lol.
 






Or better yet find some little young, skinny, wiry person with a little mechanical ability to do it for you, lol.

there's no one fitting that description in my family... lol
 






OK, what seemed like would be a 2 min job replacing the grommet turned into a nightmare. It seems Ford placed a solid line of some type right along the back edge of the grommet. This isn't a problem with a new one, as the lip just bends around it. But the old one is stiff and brittle and when you try lifting it out it hits the line. After an hour or so of rubbing my finger raw trying to pull it past the line I finally found a long, thin screwdriver that I bent slightly and could carefully put behind the intake and pry the line outward just enough to lift out the old grommet. This might sound easy except I'm balancing on top of the engine trying to hold the screwdriver with my right hand while keeping my finger in the grommet to lift it out without letting the screwdriver slip.
 






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