Replacing Radius Arm Bushings

[Prof. Wernstrom]

Hey guys, I have a question for you. How do you replace the Radius arm bushings on a 93 Ford Explorer XLT? I m debating if it would be cost efficient to change it myself, or just pay the 300 dollars and have someone else change them for me. And If it is as easy as i think it could be I would do it myself.

Im thinking I could
1. Take of my wheel

2. remove bolt from the back of the bushing pull

3. pull the arm out, lube upthe bushing and slide it in there, slide the arm back into place

4. Go get a wheel alignment.

Could it work?? I need some information thanks guys! Oh if this in the wrong forum feel free to move it I wasn't sure where to put it.

 

[Dannyboy]

It will not pull out unless you got the coil and shocks off and it's still a pain at that point. Get the truck securely on jack stands for starters and disassemble the crossmember. Make sure you use lock-tite when you reassemble and BE CAREFUL. I typically replace mine when the rest of the front end is apart so if you need to change anything else out that requires the removal the coil springs (such as the differential) then it works out okay to pull it to the front.

If this is a first big project you will probably spend the same money on all the tools (jack stands, floor jack, 1 1/8" wrench, etc) but you will have the right tools for the job on the next time around when you do your shocks and coils on your to-do list in your sig

 

[Michiganbear]

before you start that job, inspect the hole the RA goes thru on the RA bracket. your missing bushing is just like mine was, and the bracket (part the arm goes thru) was worn to poop. replacing the bushing only in that case will just cause you to replace the damn thing again soon.

replacing the RA brackets is NOT hard, other than getting the 2 or 3 rivets chiseled/cut out. replacement brackets are inexpensive, and come with all the bolts needed to replace them rivets.

with the RA bracket off, replacing the bushing is a simple job.

 

[fordnut_1993]

Mine didn't have a bushing and it rusted the metals together. I had to take the brace that goes under the trans. that the the bushings connect too and cut in half to get my bolts off. It took a couple days of all day work but it payed off. I would say check to see how hard the bolt will be to remove. If it's like mine and a big ass air compressor won't give the punch. I would go with the mechanic. But check for yourself to begin with.

 

[Prof. Wernstrom]

This is my first major project, but my buddy jarred has all the tool for me


What is lock-tite?, also im still not 100% familiar with all car parts can someone lemme know where the RA is and what i need to inspect exactly lol

 

[Michiganbear]

RA = Radius Arm.. the thing in the pic thats posted. one on each side of the car.

Locktite.. a thread locker (different colors are different strengths) used to keep nuts and bolts from working themselves loose over time. used allllll over the place in the automotive industry.

a big ass breaker bar with a 'torque enhancer" (thats a 24 inch pipe to the newbies) and heat is what I used to free my RA bushing nut

my total time on the job was about 4 hrs.. most of that spent grinding/cutting the heads off the rivets.

 

[HahnsB2]

It's easier to drop the beams than cut the rivets to pull the RA bracket off. I've done several TTB swaps and just a RA bushing change on my X, it's not bad.

 

[Prof. Wernstrom]

Alright thanks a lot you guys

my buddy is confident we can do this, ill just have to buy new rivets, ill assume autozone carries that part....lol

Im an idiot, I knew what RA was, what I wanted to know is the bracket that was being mentioned above, my friend keeps talking about a mounting bracket, is that the same thing or am I missing something completely lol i was thinking of just taking some pictures tomorrow and posting them herre to see if im comprehending this all correctly. lol

 

[James909]

He's probably referring to the same bracket as mentioned above. The bracket that the end of the RA attaches to. When putting the bracket back on just use nuts and bolts not rivets.

Edit: Use grade 8 nuts and bolts.

 

[Prof. Wernstrom]

Yeah I just talked to him and he said it was the same thing, we both decided it would be best to take care of this all at once so in the up coming days we are going to take one day to

change bushings, shocks, and coils i have a feeling its going to be a very long...long day. lmao
:-X

This will be probably the noobiest question I could possibly ask you guys, but when for instance im looking on autozone and it says front shock 22$ is that juts for one? Im trying to add up how much $$ ill be spending

Ill make sure I post pics of the entire excursion

 

[Maniak]

My guess would be yes, $22 is for a single shock.. Most shocks are sold individually, even though you really should replace them in sets (don't "need to", but "should").

~Mark

 

[Prof. Wernstrom]

Oh I planned to change all 4 at once , I assumed it was a single so I was trying to add up the total of everything im gonna buy and what not.

You guys are seriously the most helpful forum I have ever found. I am most definitly referring this place to everyone with a explorer I know.

 

[handymantim]

Radius arm bracket and bushing replacement

Just changed my radius arm (RA) brackets and bushings and thought I'd post what I learned. One of my brackets (passenger side) HAD to be replaced because the bushing was gone long enough for metal on metal contact which resulted in the passenger side bracket getting ruined. I bought both brackets online for about $34 each and they came with the hardened bolts/nuts necessary to complete the job.

Tools used:
1/2" wrench (to remove the nuts holding the fuel filter to the frame)
15mm wrench
15mm socket
3/8" ratchet
3/8" socket extensions
Air impact gun and socket for radius arm nuts
Air ratchet
Air chisel
4.5" angle grinder with cutoff wheel and grinding wheel
Hammer
Punch (drift pin)
Jack
Jack stands (2)
Come-along
oxy/acetylene torch (not required)

Be sure and jack up the front end and use jack stands.

To remove the brackets I first started using a gas torch. Worked great for 1 rivet on the passenger side but the other 3 had something else in the way (plastic fender liner, e-brake cable, fuel filter). The next tool I used was a 4.5" angle grinder with a cutoff wheel installed. This tool also worked well but it didn't completely get the rivet heads off becuase of weird angles. I used an air-powered chisel to pop the rivet heads all the way off. Once they were gone, I used the grinder to smooth the rivets down flush with the bracket steel. The air chisel was used again to knock the rivets out but this didn't work for all of the rivets. I was able to pry the brackets off the vehicle with little stubs of 2 or 3 of the rivets remaining. Once the brackets were off, I used the grinder to grind the rivet shanks flush with the frame. At this point I used a hammer and punch to knock them all the way out.

Paint the frame wherever grind marks/torch marks are.

I installed the passenger side bracket first because the brackets overlap in the center and the passenger side bracket goes on top. This bracket went in very easily.

Leave all the bolts/nuts loose until everything is installed.

The correct order for the bushings is:
1. cupped washer with cup facing aft
2. bushing that fits into RA bracket (looks like a mushroom)
3. bracket
4. plastic bushing/washer that fits around the metal doughnut of the RA bracket
5. Rubber bushing that fits inside the plastic bushing
6. Flat washer
7. Nut

To get the driver's side bracket installed I had to use a floor jack and also a come-along to pull the front axle toward the back of the car. A strong helper may be able to push the axle back with his/her legs.

Tighten all nuts/bolts. The nuts that come in the RA bracket package are locknuts.

Total job took 3 hours.

 

[Noved1987]

if your buying air shocks they come in pairs. i suggest not using air shocks im tired of airing up every week and i have tryed everything to keep them from leaking including filling them with nitrogen (just leaked slower).

 

[FamilyTradition]

Pain in the Rivet

Some where in all the different threads I saw where someone paid $28 for a shop to blue wrench (torch) out the rivets, seams fair enough saves about 4 hours so divide $28/4hrs save me about $7/hr fair enough. Just make sure when you have them cut out the rivets you have some Grade 8 bolts to replace the rivets, or as my 5y/o daughter and shop assistance says "Grate Ate".
Have fun.

 

[Prof. Wernstrom]

Some where in all the different threads I saw where someone paid $28 for a shop to blue wrench (torch) out the rivets, seams fair enough saves about 4 hours so divide $28/4hrs save me about $7/hr fair enough. Just make sure when you have them cut out the rivets you have some Grade 8 bolts to replace the rivets, or as my 5y/o daughter and shop assistance says "Grate Ate".
Have fun.

Yeah I need to get on this, every week I go to call the mechanic place I run out of money from other stupid **** LOL

Its getting done my next paycheck no matter what! I need to do it before I enlist