Request tire help/opinions/advice | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Request tire help/opinions/advice

Hi guys,

Can anyone help me with the most optimal offroad tire for my Sport Trac?

It is not my daily driver. I live in Vegas, but also plan on road tripping with this rig to Utah and Arizona. I will be highway driving (but still, it's not my daily driver). The terrains here are dominantly dirt and rocks. Sand out in the desert and washed and river beds. Not much snow or mud. But then again I will road trip. All that being said, most of my offroading fun will occur in southern Nevada and Southern Utah.

I will be doing a 3" TT and 2" add a leaf lift. I will be running LT265/75R16's. They'll be 31's. I don't have immediate plans to re-gear. I may in the future if I decide to go with 33's.

My main question, I suppose, is should I get an AT or an MT?

I'd love to hear anyone's responses about anything regarding tires.

Also, I'm a newbie to offroading. But I'm already addicted. Lol!

Thank you guys in advance
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Falkens will wear very quickly

Toyo makes awesome tires and crappy ones, the difference? Some are made in USA some are not. The Toyo's made in USA will last, the others WILL NOT

You can get a BFG at at Walmart or Discount tire, which one do you think will last longer? They are NOT the same tire........

I've looked up some of the tire brands. I have to say, Dick Cepek Fun Country's and Trail Country Exp's, I'm interested in those. I'll have to look up the Mickey Thompsons.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Toyo makes awesome tires and crappy ones, the difference? Some are made in USA some are not. The Toyo's made in USA will last, the others WILL NOT

That's interesting, and weird, that some are made overseas and some are made in the US.

Is there a way to know which ones are which?
 






Yes it should say on the website where they are made, otherwise it says right on the tires

I am 99.9% sure the Mickey Thompson and Dick Cepek tires are made in the cooper tire factory which would explain why I have been having great luck with the MT, DC and Cooper tires

I run 10 ply tires on our 4 door explorers and other SUV's here because we run mostly mud terrains, mt's have a soft compound and wear faster, the 10 ply versions are much tougher and do not wear as quickly. So to get some ride quality back I will do the "chalk line test" and let some psi out so I run them a little soft.

The Fun Country II is an EXCELLENT tire
 






I
@ current wear, I'm thinking to get 35k out of the Falkens on the Adrenalin

I was pretty much settled on Falkens. Every cluster of reviews i have read, videos I've watched, have all been consistently positive for the Wildpeaks. But 410's suggestions have opened me up to do more research. I'm still quite sure, I'm getting Wildpeaks for my Forester. But for the ST, I'm still researching.
 






I

I was pretty much settled on Falkens. Every cluster of reviews i have read, videos I've watched, have all been consistently positive for the Wildpeaks. But 410's suggestions have opened me up to do more research. I'm still quite sure, I'm getting Wildpeaks for my Forester. But for the ST, I'm still researching.
They are heavy, expect a noticeable effect on braking, and acceleration.
 






They are heavy, expect a noticeable effect on braking, and acceleration.

I was thinking of also upgrading my calipers to account for the change in braking power, due to the bigger, heavier tires. Is that a good idea?
 












You can get a BFG at at Walmart or Discount tire, which one do you think will last longer? They are NOT the same tire........

I saw BFG's at Walmart. I did think it was strange. What's even stranger, was that it was just 1 tire for sale, 1 single BFG. Lol!

So, the establishment where you get tires from matters? I'm guessing the BFG from Walmart won't last as long.
 






Yes it should say on the website where they are made, otherwise it says right on the tires

I am 99.9% sure the Mickey Thompson and Dick Cepek tires are made in the cooper tire factory which would explain why I have been having great luck with the MT, DC and Cooper tires

I run 10 ply tires on our 4 door explorers and other SUV's here because we run mostly mud terrains, mt's have a soft compound and wear faster, the 10 ply versions are much tougher and do not wear as quickly. So to get some ride quality back I will do the "chalk line test" and let some psi out so I run them a little soft.

The Fun Country II is an EXCELLENT tire

Great feedback on 10 ply tires! Thanks again 410. Like I said, I'm a sponge. Lol! Here's my novice question.

What's the chalk line test?
 






BFG from walley world may look similar to a BFG at discount tire but the rubber compounds are not the same, the wal mart tires are a cheaper version

The chalk line test is how you tell how much of your tire is actually contacting the ground, this is called the "contact patch" and is where traction happens. By lowering the tire PSI you get a larger contact patch, more air pressure, smaller patch. So if I am about to drive 3 states of highway I will take my tires up to like 42 psi, (small contact patch in the middle on the chalk test). I will get very good mpg for my trip but begin to wear down the center of my tires....., then when I arrive at the trail head take the tires down to like 10-12 psi, now I have a HUGE contact patch for doing the trails......lots of traction. But if you run this setup on the road you will get low MPG and crappy handling, so pump them back up to around 32-34 psi where the chalk line is flat (medium size contact patch) for daily driving, the tires will wear evenly because the center and outsides of the read are all making contact with the ground.

The chalk line test shows the contact patch on the smooth concrete shop floor so you can see what your tires are doing. The recommended air pressure from Ford is on the door sticker, but that only covers stock sized wheels and tires. When you are like me and running way big tires and 10 ply E rated meats on a 88 Bronco II, the chalk is a neat tool so show exactly where the rubber meets the road

When you invest this much time and $$$ into tires you had better know your stuff! Also I keep up on the latest offerings from the tires manufactures and tire news by reading lots and lots of hotrod and offroad mags/websites, etc........

I check my tire pressures more often then I wash my rigs..........tire PSI, tire type and size is EVERYTHING when you are building on or off road machines
 






BFG from walley world may look similar to a BFG at discount tire but the rubber compounds are not the same, the wal mart tires are a cheaper version

The chalk line test is how you tell how much of your tire is actually contacting the ground, this is called the "contact patch" and is where traction happens. By lowering the tire PSI you get a larger contact patch, more air pressure, smaller patch. So if I am about to drive 3 states of highway I will take my tires up to like 42 psi, (small contact patch in the middle on the chalk test). I will get very good mpg for my trip but begin to wear down the center of my tires....., then when I arrive at the trail head take the tires down to like 10-12 psi, now I have a HUGE contact patch for doing the trails......lots of traction. But if you run this setup on the road you will get low MPG and crappy handling, so pump them back up to around 32-34 psi where the chalk line is flat (medium size contact patch) for daily driving, the tires will wear evenly because the center and outsides of the read are all making contact with the ground.

The chalk line test shows the contact patch on the smooth concrete shop floor so you can see what your tires are doing. The recommended air pressure from Ford is on the door sticker, but that only covers stock sized wheels and tires. When you are like me and running way big tires and 10 ply E rated meats on a 88 Bronco II, the chalk is a neat tool so show exactly where the rubber meets the road

When you invest this much time and $$$ into tires you had better know your stuff! Also I keep up on the latest offerings from the tires manufactures and tire news by reading lots and lots of hotrod and offroad mags/websites, etc........

I check my tire pressures more often then I wash my rigs..........tire PSI, tire type and size is EVERYTHING when you are building on or off road machines
OK, got to ask.
Have you ever used to air down/ air up when using chains?
When visiting the farm in North Dakota during the winter(cause, you know- it's either that or Hawaii) We air down to about 20 psi, throw the iron on, and then air back up. We can run all day @ 45 mph and not break a link.
Always wished I could do it on my Semi....
 






I have a plow truck the 4 chains stay on it 365 days a year, it never leaves here and I do not need it in summer
We also run chains on the atv's, usually just rear tires, sometime between "track season" and "mud season"
Some chains it indeed makes it easier to install the links if you take the tires down in psi, but I do pump them back up to keep the chains tight :) When chains start flopping stuff starts breaking (like brake lines)
 






BFG from walley world may look similar to a BFG at discount tire but the rubber compounds are not the same, the wal mart tires are a cheaper version

The chalk line test is how you tell how much of your tire is actually contacting the ground, this is called the "contact patch" and is where traction happens. By lowering the tire PSI you get a larger contact patch, more air pressure, smaller patch. So if I am about to drive 3 states of highway I will take my tires up to like 42 psi, (small contact patch in the middle on the chalk test). I will get very good mpg for my trip but begin to wear down the center of my tires....., then when I arrive at the trail head take the tires down to like 10-12 psi, now I have a HUGE contact patch for doing the trails......lots of traction. But if you run this setup on the road you will get low MPG and crappy handling, so pump them back up to around 32-34 psi where the chalk line is flat (medium size contact patch) for daily driving, the tires will wear evenly because the center and outsides of the read are all making contact with the ground.

The chalk line test shows the contact patch on the smooth concrete shop floor so you can see what your tires are doing. The recommended air pressure from Ford is on the door sticker, but that only covers stock sized wheels and tires. When you are like me and running way big tires and 10 ply E rated meats on a 88 Bronco II, the chalk is a neat tool so show exactly where the rubber meets the road

When you invest this much time and $$$ into tires you had better know your stuff! Also I keep up on the latest offerings from the tires manufactures and tire news by reading lots and lots of hotrod and offroad mags/websites, etc........

I check my tire pressures more often then I wash my rigs..........tire PSI, tire type and size is EVERYTHING when you are building on or off road machines

Amazing info!! I had no idea it could be so technical. This method sounds like it definitely optimizes the length of a tire's tread life. I admit. I currently don't check my tire pressure very often. Basically only when an oil change is due.
 






Yes but you are just getting started, when I was getting started at all of this the internet was just created by Al Gore, Ef4x4.com was not even a website yet, I used AOL online and a 11.6 baud modem to access the "internet"...found a group of dudes sharing ideas at Fordranger.com and KunzKorner (2.9L performance) it was just a few short years later that I was pointed to Explorerforum and the knowledge started to flow......................I think that was 1997? 98? I dunno> I do see posts here from 1999 from me............. a much younger me, but still very passionate about these trucks and the sharing of knowledge....... I was told so many times "just buy a Jeep" when asking about performance mods for a 88 BII....the challenge was on! BRING IT!
Thanks to explorer forum I still roll the same old BII

So now you get the benefits of doing this in the information age, just like the rest of us...... Now share what you have learned and use it to SAVE MONEY ON TIRES!!!!!!!!!!
 






Yes but you are just getting started, when I was getting started at all of this the internet was just created by Al Gore, Ef4x4.com was not even a website yet, I used AOL online and a 11.6 baud modem to access the "internet"...found a group of dudes sharing ideas at Fordranger.com and KunzKorner (2.9L performance) it was just a few short years later that I was pointed to Explorerforum and the knowledge started to flow......................I think that was 1997? 98? I dunno> I do see posts here from 1999 from me............. a much younger me, but still very passionate about these trucks and the sharing of knowledge....... I was told so many times "just buy a Jeep" when asking about performance mods for a 88 BII....the challenge was on! BRING IT!
Thanks to explorer forum I still roll the same old BII

So now you get the benefits of doing this in the information age, just like the rest of us...... Now share what you have learned and use it to SAVE MONEY ON TIRES!!!!!!!!!!

Lol! I also grew up with dial up modem, AOL, and a floppy disk. I've said before that I'm very late to the party. I suppose there is an advantage to being late, such as the wealth of knowledge and experience in this forum.
 












Back
Top