SOHC Engine Removal/Rebuild/Install - Done!

[donalds]

If you want to use a toggle-type switch you'd want to use a momentary switch and to an ON/OFF arming switch. I'm sure you realize this and just like the style?

I haven't see a V8 I would buy in years. You're correct in that the vast number of them that pop up for sale are clapped-out. Even in the south it's the paint and interiors that go even if they kept in good mechanical condition. That's what I like about my '01 EB. Great paint, perfect interior and mechanically 100%.

Your x it is very nice
Yes a momentary switch is what u need something like https://www.google.com/searchsa=xbi...4.64.mobile-sh-serp..0.1.381....0.uwwejt4lk0o

Obviously u got the joke

 

[koda2000]

1/2 day today. Decided I needed a break.

- Installed my new Simmons aluminum t-stat housing for Sport Trac. Super nice piece, fits perfectly, looks great. Should be trouble-free and last forever. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for. As I thought I had to bend the heater hose bracket back to get the smaller hose on the t-stat housing. I'm still scratching my head as far as why the eblow from the valve cover to intake tube is suddenly too short. I guess I'll just a short (1"-1.5")straight piece of hose to lengthen it.

- Filled the cooling system with water with the front of truck up in the air and letting it sit overnight with the cap off to see if that helps burp out any trapped air. Can't run it for long yet (no power steering hose/ fluid). No water leaks or drips so far. Shouldn't be any, but if I'd filled it antifreeze it would have leaked from somewhere.

- Fiddled with wire routing and in-general neatening things up.

- Replaced the battery I stole out of my Mountaineer (Home Depot Exide Grp 65 $100)

Tomorrow's plan:
- Install the power steering pressure hose and fill the system with Mercon V and bleed
- Reinstall the front sway bar
- Put the front tires back on
- Through a license plate on it and take it around the block a few times

Later on I just need to reinstall the remaining transmission bolts (no rush) and give it a bath to guarantee it will rain all next week.

 

[donalds]

give it a bath to guarantee it will rain all next week.

Happens every time

 

[koda2000]

Correction - New Grp 65 battery at Home Depot was only $89 (price has gone down since December).

 

[koda2000]

Final update, Calling this one done.

- Today I torqued the front sway bar and starter motor down and did a nut-n-bolt check
- Installed the new power steering pressure line (what a PITA!)
- Filled the power steering reservoir w/Mercon V (and bled the air out of the system)
- Checked for any fluid and water leaks/drips from overnight (none found)
- Temporarily reinstalled the radiator clutch fan (w/o the fan shroud)
- Ran the engine to get up to normal operating temp (must have burped itself overnight)
- Reinstalled/torqued the front wheels
- Took the truck down off the safety stands
- Checked all vehicle functions (heat, A/C lights, power options, etc) everything works as it should
- Took the truck around the block several times (about 15 miles) and stopped to put gas in it.

With coolant in it the engine is quiet as can be. It should even be quieter with the insulated hood on it. The truck ran and drove perfectly today. No complaints whatsoever. I couldn't be more pleased. Now there's just minor stuff to finish up, but other than reinstalling the hood this evening I'm taking a few well-deserved days off. I'm so glad I was able to finish the project before the 98 degree, humid GA weather arrives. Today's low 80's in the shade was hot enough for me (that equals about 95 in the Sun where I was working).

Many thanks to all who helped me.

 

[410Fortune]

HECK YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well done

FYI PS high pressure hoses do those while the engine is out IN 2004 they finally changed the rack and pinion to use a hold down nut and O ring to make it waaaaaaaay easier.
You did it! Now enjoy it. I am sure someday I will be forced to re time a SOHC engine and when I do I know where to look see!

 

[koda2000]

HECK YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well done

FYI PS high pressure hoses do those while the engine is out IN 2004 they finally changed the rack and pinion to use a hold down nut and O ring to make it waaaaaaaay easier.
You did it! Now enjoy it. I am sure someday I will be forced to re time a SOHC engine and when I do I know where to look see!

Thanks. Once you understand how to do it, timing a SOHC is really not that difficult (especially with the proper tools, which make the process foolproof). It can even be done w/out the special cam holding tools, but you have to follow the same principles and know what you're doing. I wouldn't take the risk doing it the first time w/out the special tools though.

I had removed the P/S hose with the engine in the truck, so I figured I'd be able to reinstall it the same way. The pump end isn't too hard, but the rack end is ridiculous. I'd bought a new hose, mainly just to get the nylon/Teflon (whatever they're made of) washers/seals, because my old hose didn't have a seal on the pump end and had leaked. Someone had put Teflon tape on the threads, but that didn't work too well. I bought a RockAuto closeout pressure line for around $5, but after struggling with it for 1/2 hour I removed the seals and installed them on my old hose, which had taken a set to it. This eventually allowed me to thread in the lower fitting, but even using a tubing "crowsfoot" you can only turn the fitting about an 1/8th of a turn at a time and you need to keep flipping the crowsfoot over each time. That took for ever. If I had it to do over I would have attached the fitting on the rack end first.

Maybe you know the answer to a question I have? My original P/S hose had a metal bracket on it which held the hose back away from the serpentine belt I had removed the bracket from my old hose and installed it on my new hose. I forgot to move it back to my old hose when I reinstalled the line. For now I'm temporarily using a piece of baling wire to hold the hose away from the belt. There is also a metal bracket to support the A/C hose in place. It is attached to a studded bolt on the lower driver's side of the timing cover. Do you know (or can you check) if the P/S hose bracket is supposed to be attached to the same stud as the A/C bracket?

 

[donalds]

Got her all buttoned up

Great job now drive it and enjoy your hard work

 

[CDW6212R]

...

Maybe you know the answer to a question I have? My original P/S hose had a metal bracket on it which held the hose back away from the serpentine belt I had removed the bracket from my old hose and installed it on my new hose. I forgot to move it back to my old hose when I reinstalled the line. For now I'm temporarily using a piece of baling wire to hold the hose away from the belt. There is also a metal bracket to support the A/C hose in place. It is attached to a studded bolt on the lower driver's side of the timing cover. Do you know (or can you check) if the P/S hose bracket is supposed to be attached to the same stud as the A/C bracket?

The new OEM PS line is shaped differently than the original one. It's longer and routes over to the frame rail, where it attaches, and I think it was fine either way. I bought the new line when I revamped the whole front and timing parts, I don't think I saved the old line. I couldn't find a picture showing the old line attached to the rack.

 

[koda2000]

The new OEM PS line is shaped differently than the original one. It's longer and routes over to the frame rail, where it attaches, and I think it was fine either way. I bought the new line when I revamped the whole front and timing parts, I don't think I saved the old line. I couldn't find a picture showing the old line attached to the rack.

My new P/S line and my old P/S line are identical. That's not the issue. I just don't recall where on the engine block the line's support bracket attaches.

 

[koda2000]

One last image...

Thoroughly washed and waxed, shining like a diamond in a goat's ass (whatever that means), Insurance reinstated.

 

[koda2000]

Well, I've put over 250 miles on it this week and, other than a defective Motorcraft oil pressure switch, It's perfect. No leaks, no noises and it runs like a train. I'm just finishing up putting the last few non-essential plastic bits back on. After that I just need to drain the water from the radiator, install antifreeze and I'll be looking for a new project to occupy my time.

 

[Mr. Alligator]

@koda2000 Congratulations! Well done.

What is the next project?

 

[donalds]

Not that I have to tell you
You did a great job

New project ? Sounds like good reading to me

 

[koda2000]

@koda2000 Congratulations! Well done.

What is the next project?

IDK. I have to do paint correction and put Avalon King ceramic coating on my daughter's Fusion. Depending how that turns out I may also do my EB and perhaps even the Sport Trac. I have all the stuff, just need to work up the enthusiasm. Then there's a pretty long list of yard work that's gotten backed up over the past year and I need to make a huge run to the dump. Automotive-wise my list is quite short right now (knock on wood). I may sell a couple vehicles. We've got 2 drivers and 5 vehicles right now.