RH144 Lower T-Stat Housing...that skinny, little rubber band gasket | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations
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RH144 Lower T-Stat Housing...that skinny, little rubber band gasket

84FLH

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I'm replacing my stock lower T-stat housing (threaded sensors) with RH144 housing (clip in sensors) and RG614 (Motorcraft #) lower T-stat housing gasket. Ford pn of this gasket is 1L2A-8255-AA.

Difference between RG614 and stock gasket is significant. Stock gasket is about 1/8" wide and 1/8" tall (i.e. square profile). It has more way more contact area with block than RG614, (Ford # 1L2Z-8255-AA):

I'm skeptical this new gasket will adequately seal against block top. Don't ever want to do this job again. Would love to hear from those who've replaced their threaded type lower T-stat housing with the RH144 housing and RG614 about longevity of their repair.

EDIT

Also, my RH144 lower housing has a slight rattle when I shake it. Like a small plastic piece is loose inside. Spent 30 minutes trying to find what causes it but found nothing. All bushings are tight in their bores. Housing is stripped (no sensors or clips or thermostat), so nothing else can be rattling around.

Is this a check valve inside the body?
 



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donalds

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I just put a little rtv on the gasket and installed it no leaks
 






XLTrunner

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No check valve that I know of in these. Can't imagine what would be rattling around inside if you've removed the t-stat and sensors. One of the metal mtg hole bushings loose?

I remember thinking the same thing with the thin wall gasket. I didn't use any RTV (probably should have), but haven't had any problem with mine. Not really sure if leakage around that housing to manifold gasket has been all that commonplace on either style. My experience has been leakage around the sensors and body of the housing, itself. All I know is I'm going with a metal housing if there is a next time.
 






84FLH

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No check valve that I know of in these. Can't imagine what would be rattling around inside if you've removed the t-stat and sensors. One of the metal mtg hole bushings loose?

I remember thinking the same thing with the thin wall gasket. I didn't use any RTV (probably should have), but haven't had any problem with mine. Not really sure if leakage around that housing to manifold gasket has been all that commonplace on either style. My experience has been leakage around the sensors and body of the housing, itself. All I know is I'm going with a metal housing if there is a next time.

Thanks. How long has your repair been in?

All 6 metal bushings are tight in housing. Ordered housing from parts.ford.com site. Should be called parts.morons.com instead. They put no protective material in the shipping box, no peanuts, no bubble wrap, not even a piece of paper. They sealed box with industrial, brown wrapping tape. That tape had then been ripped open along box opening, and resealed with 4" wide clear, heavy plastic tape. Probably by Fedex.

Wonder if that had anything to do with rattle in housing. Or box was dropped and housing damaged. Took me 2 hours to place a claim. Parts.ford.com said I had to call the dealer I selected when I placed order. Dealer said I had to call parts.ford.com. FUBAR. Will never order from them again.
 






XLTrunner

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Mine was replaced about two yrs and 10K miles ago (it doesn't get driven that much...and, never in the winter to preserve it from the road chemicals).

Sorry to hear about the improper packaging/handling of your housing. Sure hope something didn't get broken inside as this is not a particularly fun job to have to re-do if something shows up after you've put everything back together; although, I've gotten pretty efficient at replacing these after several go-arounds. I've got another used spare laying around and I'll disassemble it and take a close look at what could possibly be the cause of the rattle.
 






84FLH

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Mine was replaced about two yrs and 10K miles ago (it doesn't get driven that much...and, never in the winter to preserve it from the road chemicals).

Sorry to hear about the improper packaging/handling of your housing. Sure hope something didn't get broken inside as this is not a particularly fun job to have to re-do if something shows up after you've put everything back together; although, I've gotten pretty efficient at replacing these after several go-arounds. I've got another used spare laying around and I'll disassemble it and take a close look at what could possibly be the cause of the rattle.

Got this message about lower housing when they shipped my order:
This part has been superseded and replaced with Part #:2L5Z8592BB

Unable to find any info about what changed, if anything, in housing construction. Maybe a check valve was added? Maybe that rattling noise is part of the change? Hesitant to use it. Local dealer has complete Motorcraft mfg assembly, with screw in sensors, etc at $400.

Considering it. It's a know factor and my 347,000 mile vehicle will hopefully be replaced before the screw ins start leaking.
 






XLTrunner

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That superceded Ford part number is for housings that came on '02 and up...and, had a plug in one of the two sensor holes as they went to using only one sensor on that one. I'm certain that is the only difference...and, I surely wouldn't run out and spend $400 for it. I'd be more inclined to just order another RH144 off Rockauto if you're uncertain.

I did take my spare RH144 housing apart and there is absolutely nothing inside the housing cavity that could break off and cause that rattling. Even if something had broken off, it would easily fall out of the open cavity. Definitely no check valve, either. Maybe some molding flash broke loose inside the inner /outer walls? I'm at a loss...
 






84FLH

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That superceded Ford part number is for housings that came on '02 and up...and, had a plug in one of the two sensor holes as they went to using only one sensor on that one. I'm certain that is the only difference...and, I surely wouldn't run out and spend $400 for it. I'd be more inclined to just order another RH144 off Rockauto if you're uncertain.

I did take my spare RH144 housing apart and there is absolutely nothing inside the housing cavity that could break off and cause that rattling. Even if something had broken off, it would easily fall out of the open cavity. Definitely no check valve, either. Maybe some molding flash broke loose inside the inner /outer walls? I'm at a loss...

Thank you for taking apart the RH144 housing. I have three of them! One from local dealer. Two from parts.ford.com site. All three rattle. Techs at dealer don't know why. None ever shook a housing before installing, so none ever noticed a rattle.

Since this is my only vehicle and I need it for work, I couldn't chance it breaking down. Went with dealer complete assembly at $400. Old style. Threaded inserts. Got it installed today. Then filled radiator to 1" below neck. Turned heat to high, defroster on, fan on low. Ran till I got warm/hot air coming out vents. Temp gauge came up about halfway to normal operating temp. Turned it off, let it cool, filled rad back up. Took maybe 4 oz.

No leaking from either sensor. No leaking from tstat-to-block joint. No coolant pooling in valley immediately behind housing. So I think the leak is gone.

But....no coolant in upper rad hose. Have to read up on bleeding system. Bleed it tomorrow. Hope thermostat not stuck closed. Then again, temp gauge didn't come up to where it normally is at operating temp (about halfway up the gauge). So maybe when temp gauge indicates normal operating temperature (tomorrow) upper rad hose will fill. Am I missing anything? Tips on bleeding appreciated!

Thanks again.
 












84FLH

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Hey Dillard;

Thanks for the good advice. Summit had the best reviews for aluminum housings but they were out of stock for my 2000 Mountaineer. All 3 RH144 lower housings I have, rattle. These are bare lower housings only. All the steel bushings are solidly mounted and not causing rattle. Dealer said the housings I have aren't RH144 but a superceeded part ending in 8592#. The only information he could find on his computer said "Improved jiggle pin".

Expediency required me to use a complete Ford assembly with screw in sensors. Got it in Friday. No sealant used around lower housing gasket or threaded sensors. Burped system as you said Saturday. Hosed off overflow from radiator. Hosed off all engine areas that had coolant on them from prior leaking. Hosed coolant off front cross member.

Ran it 20 mins in park with no visible leaks around new unit. For first time in ages the visible valley areas behind unit are dry. Drove about 20 miles Saturday. No leaks after parking. Checking coolant level later this morning. Just hope the leak is gone.
 






84FLH

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@alvawayne
Sounds like you've got it fixed, for a while anyway; still recommend an aluminum housing to fix it permanently:
1 or 2 Threaded or Clipped TempSensor(s), TopCover for RightHand or ForeHand RadiatorHose, depending on your year +model.

SAS is the most rugid but most expensive aluminum option:
RockAuto\SKP is likely the least expensive aluminum option:

Happy motoring
D
Thanks, D. Another 20 miles around town and no visible leaks around base of new unit. No visible leaks from hoses I dis-connected and re-connected. No drips on ground. No wetness on front crossmember.

But I still get a slight whiff of coolant when driving. See no underhood leakage signs. Not at radiator or areas above. Maybe heater core? Another thing to check.

Time to get another vehicle. 348,000 on this one.
 






donalds

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I still have to say
Buy a metal housing and put rtv on the gasket
Then forget about it

If your like me ...stubborn....you will try everything to make this work
Most of us have been there I've been there 5 times in the end don't sell the car over a metal housing that's cheap
 






84FLH

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I still have to say
Buy a metal housing and put rtv on the gasket
Then forget about it

If your like me ...stubborn....you will try everything to make this work
Most of us have been there I've been there 5 times in the end don't sell the car over a metal housing that's cheap
Only aluminum housing I'd use is by Summit but they're out of stock for my vehicle.

With 348,000 on the clock and many little/medium things needed (rear springs, replace upper/lower intake gaskets, radio lights, CV joint, window motor, rust over rear wheel wells, more) it's time to upgrade.

Plus, I still smell coolant. Not much. Little whiff. Another irritation. No idea why I still smell it. Area under, behind, around, below, above new housing assembly is dry. aee no leaking from any coolant hoses, radiator spigot. New radiator two years ago. No obvious leaking from radiator. No coolant smell from exhaust.

Did note coolant level in radiator dropped about 2" after weekend driving of maybe 20 miles, never exceeding 40 mph. Topped it off last night. Drove 25 miles to work this morning 50-60 mph. Will check coolant level at lunch.
 






84FLH

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There is a plastic "T" coolant fitting in one of the heater core lines on the right hand side just in front of the fire wall, for the smaller coolant loop that runs to the intake manifold; had a small leak\crack in this "T" that I could whiff occasionally. Replaced this "T" with a soldered brass\copper version homemade with plumbers fittings, a flaring tool & standard hose clamps. Also put a couple of wraps of teflon tape around the top neck of the coolant overflow tank, under the rectangular snap cap that was loose from age. This got rid of the last hint of my coolant leaks\smells.
D
Thank you, D! I'll check it out.
 






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