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Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2


james t

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It's amazing how much time you can spend in the garage when the In-laws are up from Texas :salute:
Understood, as mine are up from Texas quite often- being Texas is a few blocks away and they live on the other side of town. :D
 

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rookieshooter

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84 BII "Li'l Samson"
DSC03868.jpg


I made up this trac bar bracket and there is plenty of space to mount it in a good location. May have to use some kind of spacer if I have to lower it to get the same angle as the drag bar.

I'll have the carrier in tomorrow and slide in axles. Then I'll decide if I'm going to drill and tap the passenger side knuckle for the high steer bolts or take to a machine shop. Then press in the heavy duty Napa brand ball joints and install the hubs.
Getting close.

Hey, just noticed something while looking at pic. I forgot to trim back that little piece sticking out
at right hand side above the round tubing. Then weld it along the top of the tubing.
Not the first time I've posted something, only to notice something I forgot to do.
Some times it helps just to step back and take a look. Hard to notice everything looking through a welding helmet laying under the truck that close.
 


Kirby N.

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I would definately design that tracbar mount different. There is a ton of force on that bracket. I would make it wrap around the frame so you can get weld surface all the way around and more bracket bracing it. Also, did you cut the hole with a torch? I would definately drill this one. If there is any slop in the bolt you will likely get a clunk or worse death wobble. Again, there is a ton of force on that bracket and you need everything really tight and really strong.
Here is the one my buddy and I put together from a ballastic bracket (cut narrowed and otherwise modified) for his SAS Bronco:
P1011044.jpg

P1011043.jpg

P1011049.jpg

P1011060.jpg
 


rookieshooter

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I can see where you would think that, I should have been more specific. That's the trouble sometimes posting on the webb.
It will be braced similar to Ballistics trac bar, but beefier. But not untill I know the exact height to match the angle of the drag bar.That is why I make about all my mounts. I may even incorporate the 1/4" plate that the 1/4" DOM is welded to. That is just a generic mount now that was actually made about a month ago like all the mounts so I would not have that much down time once the truck is in the garage, then finished up once i got the final measurements and height. The track bar mount in the rear is gusseted with side pieces also and all 3/8" and 1/4 boxed in frame.
The front bracket holes are lasered cut by Ballistic fab, plus the whole bracket including the welded on side braces will be 1/4". Including boxing in of frame.
You would have to be an idiot to use a torch.

IMG_0036.jpg


Here is how I did the back. This is 3/8" tabs welded to 1/4" boxed in frame and have no problems since it was first put on. This bracket was completely fabricated by me.

IMG_0037-1.jpg


This is the rear trac bar at axle end. It was a Ballistic product that I did not think was strong enough and I reinforced with 1/4" DOM. That is why I usually make all brackets my self.
The primered wing things that you see at the wristed radius arm hook-up act as a girdle once the pin is pulled. The bushing would almost come out of the bracket, hence the girdle.

Thanks for your input.
 
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Kirby N.

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The cut looked rough in the pic. I thought you wouldn't do that, but there are some guys out there who are really good with an ol torch (not good enough for this though!)
 


rookieshooter

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Thanks for your confidence. I did edit my my post to explain that you could take that to be a finished bracket. That is a nice one you did.
 


rookieshooter

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DSC03870.jpg


Going to finish up my last bracket, that being the trac bar frame mount. Need to add some finishing touches to the more or less generic one I built a month ago.
I like to recycle as many parts from this Bii as I can. Just keeping it period correct.
It's a green thing...no not the tree hugger thing, I'm talking about $$$
When I take off existing brackets, I like to save them for some future occasion. And I found a likely candidate. If I'm correct this used to be part of a shock mount. It's 1/4" steel. You can see that it is in good shape from the piece that I cut off and is laying on top of the vise.

DSC03874.jpg


A air operated die grinder with sanding disc took quick work of that surface rust.
After finding the right height of the bracket and turning the tabs a few degrees facing the center line of axle, I welded on the lower tab bracket.

DSC03876.jpg



After painting, I decided to reinforce the top with the piece that now ties the top of bracket to top of frame.
Those bolts are not really for strength as much as it pulled the bracket extremely tight to the frame so I could get a good weld.

This should be plenty strong. It's welded to the top, along the backside and then the lower underside of frame. Plus this part of the frame is already reinforced by the steering box.
Only thng I might add would be a small piece running down the backside of the tabs.



On another subject of this build, I'm going to upgrade that steering shaft and the way it's supported at the firewall. But that's later.
 
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rookieshooter

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Oops, double posted
 
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rookieshooter

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DSC03884.jpg


Drilled and now tapping the other spindle for my pusher bolts.
Like I said on the other spindle, I'm not going through that problem of getting the spindle off anymore. No banging anymore, Hoo RA.

DSC03887.jpg


I don't even wont the pusher bolts to be a problem, so anti seize goes on.

DSC03888.jpg


After cleaning up the spindle down to shiny metal...you guessed it, anti seize.
I made sure the pusher bolts were not past the flange, that would not be good to torque the spindle down, only to have those bolts sticking out.
Now after it was torqued down, then I tightened pusher bolts tight to flange.
Also a spindle kit was installed which included the inner roller bearings.
DSC03891.jpg


I've finally have the rear center section done and getting ready to put the cover on.

DSC03892.jpg


The axle will be slid under and finally hook-up for the last time tomorrow.
I'll go to Fastenal and get some good American made grade 8 bolts for the 4 link.
Not going to use any of those China made grade 8s that you buy by the pound. I seriously don't think they're up to grade.

Even though I don't have the 5 x 5.5 rims yet, I'll have all 4 links hooked up and the coilovers. This way I can take out the Jack stands out from under frame and put the stands under the axle tubes and let the axle support the truck.
I'll set the axle at 16" off ground as if it had tires on it.
I know I'll have to adjust the coilovers cause I built in a little lift in the mounts.
Also I can see how much if any that I need to trim the fenders being that the axle is moved forward.
Since I used more DOM tubing for the engine cross member mount, I'll have to order some more for the track bar from Speedy metals.

A little tip...If one was to do any kind of axle install and you don't have a dolly like you see the axle sitting on...buy or make one, yes it's just that important. Especially if your doing it alone.
 
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BigDakota

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Your BII is really being transformed into a bullet proof ride. All your blood,sweat and tears and quite a few C notes is showing.:D
I felt your pain on the front hub removal. Those sleazed in suckers can ruin a nice day. I liked your idea on drilling and tapping them. Also the anti sieze. Anti-sieze is like Mastercard, you never leave home without it.ha
 


rookieshooter

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thanks Sport4.0



DSC03893.jpg


Layed out the 3 holes for the high steer arms.
This was not fun at all. Then even worse was hand drilling and then tapping.
The tap calls for a 33/64 drill bit. But since I drilled it by hand and no way as steady as a drill press. I went with a 31/64 bit. This really made for a good metal to thread contact.

DSC03897.jpg


These holes have to be dead drop straight for the steering arm to fit over them.

DSC03898.jpg


Installing those top of the line Napa ball joints. If your wondering what is that small tack weld is for on the high steer arm. That was to keep everything in place while I found dead center of each hole. Even had the knuckle tacked to the vice that was 2 way level. Then the bubble on the hand drill was kept level the hole time drilling. Yes I was a tad bit, well lets just say my knuckles were white...I'm talking hand knuckles.

DSC03899.jpg



DSC03900.jpg

Now the axle has both knuckles installed along with hubs.

Then the axle was slid under truck and the 4 links were hooked up :D

Before taking pics I'll hook-up the steering link or tie rod as some call it.
The 2" tubing still needed to be cut and one end needed welding up.
But it sure does look good if I don't say so myself setting under the truck with no engine cross member hanging down.
Still need to get the 1.5" reamer to ream out the Pitman arm.
 
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lifeguard379

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OK you have had plenty of time to do the steering! where are the pics!lol
 


rookieshooter

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OK you have had plenty of time to do the steering! where are the pics!lol
Now that was good. There was, as you said
plenty of time to do the steering
but unfortuantly it's not time... it's $$$ at this point in time.
But the money tree is dropping some cashola in about 1 1/2 weeks, and then come the steering goodies, and more important, rims so I can back this thing out of the garage.
It's been down far too long. People in the town are looking on milk bottles for my pic.

It's funny, when I was working I had plenty of money, and no time, now that I'm retired I have plenty of time, but no money HA HA.
 
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rookieshooter

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Just ordered my flashing neon Pizza A go go sign for the roof of Pizza go go wagon
 


410Fortune

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get in the Zone


Man it has been too long since I have been there, didnt even know they had their own oil????

is it sitting on the springs yet??????????????????? we are all waiting!! hahahahaha
 


rookieshooter

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get in pizza Zone


Man it has been too long since I have been pizzare, didnt even know pizzay had pizzair own oil????

is it sitting on pizza springs yet??????????????????? we are all waiting!! hahahahaha
You ask for pizza you gat pizza springs LOL

DSC03908.jpg


Won't see this kinda pic on too many Bii.
And what the heck it that piece of steel running horizontal for with two holes in it? It's got to go.

DSC03904.jpg


DSC03911.jpg


DSC03902.jpg


Not much angle on track bar at level ride. Drag bar still needs to be made. Might have to fasten drag bar on pizza bottom of high steer to match pizza shallow angle of track bar. But pizza less angles pizza better ride.

In this pic here, if it were not for fabricating engne brace, pizza drag bar would have hit it.
So pizza complete 4 link is in with out putting pizza go go wagon up into pizza clouds. But does it work is pizza main concern now.
But who cares, just pizza look of it was worth it LOL
It amazes me how it articulates. But this is in garage.
 
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rookieshooter

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LOL, was wondering what you meant by their own oil. That was just a box that they put a bunch of parts in that I bought.
I'm using Valovoline VR1 racing oil...it's got the good stuff for high valve spring presshizzled pushrod vroom vrooms.

The way I built the coilover mounts, I still have plenty of room for more lift also, which I will raise after getting donuts and rims on front, and then rear will be raised accordingly.

410, surprised you did not pick up on tranny fliud of floor. Need to fix that.
 
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BigDakota

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I went back in time to your first post in 2005. I remember when you started this project and watched you start to modify. It is almost 5 years later and not much left of the original iron. Wow..where does time go?!
You have some good articulation on your front end build and a test of strength will be had when hunting season kicks in. :D
 


black91EB

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Join the Elite Explorers for $20. Gets rid of the ads!

Explorer Forum has probably saved you that much already, and will continue to save you money as you learn how to diagnose fix problems yourself and learn which modifications work without having to experiment on your own. Elite Explorer members see practically no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create and save more private Conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.



rookieshooter

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I went back in time to your first post in 2005. I remember when you started this project and watched you start to modify. It is almost 5 years later and not much left of the original iron. Wow..where does time go?!
You have some good articulation on your front end build and a test of strength will be had when hunting season kicks in.
I had no idea it's been that long.
My wife was the first one to see me working on it after it sat for a year. I was cutting the roof off. You should have seen the look in her eyes.
She said "what are you doing"?
What does it look like I'm doing, I have some ideas for it.

After a few thousand ideas later I've still got more ideas.

I agree about the hunting season work outs.

Going back a couple pages, I tried the eel snot concoction, and boy that stuff works great. I found this http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...o?itemid=01102
which works great for the stuff. Just as convenient as a commercial product, yet reusable. At the memphis HF it was $4.98
Yes sir that stuff sure is slippery for sure. Why it's more slippery then two eels a frigin in a bucket of snot, that's why I call it what I do :p:

Thanks for posting about that container.

DSC03914.jpg


Have the last link made...the drag link.

DSC03925.jpg


I can't install the drag link yet, need to ream out the hole. I'm going to have it fit from top I do believe to match the track bar that is just over the edge of the drag link.
Bump steer should be no problem with these angles.
If it went in from bottom like the Bii then it would be almost perfectly parallel. But I would have to make the track bar brackets longer and I don't want them longer due to strength, the shorter the better, less leverage against frame that way.
And anyway there is hardly no angle anyway if I go on top.
I designed those two links so that there would not be any drastic angles. And that was another reason I made my own engine cross member. Well about 90% of it anyway.

The bad thing is that I can't get out of the garage when done...:eek:
It now sits too high for the roof cage mounted on top to clear the garage door. Oh, well.
So once the tires are on I I even crank up the coilover springs up higher, I'll see if I can mount the overhead Hella's 1000 directly above wineshield. And yes I do use them.

DSC03928-1.jpg


Look what I found after sweeping floor :eek: just after putting Hubs back together. Now which one?
 
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