Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

[rookieshooter]

37's Hmmm.
I'm getting it cleaned up

Keeps growing each week

 

[rookieshooter]

Now that I did the first on the front pass side, they're not so difficult to make. Plus I've got some down time untill rims and the reamer for the Pitman arm get here. So might as well start on the back also.
The front is different, I had to get them done to clear tires.
Still have to do left side front and other side of rear.
The inside of the bed where the side of quater panel is out from the inside fender well is no big deal to patch up.
I think it gives it a more rugged look. Not mentiong showing off the outboard coilovers and radius arm suspension a little, OK, a whole lot.

Just to compare to what it looked like this morning.
Might say there's room to grow now.

 

[black91EB]

looking good as always. Something I meant to ask, but what kind of welding equipment are you using? I know you use both stick and mig, but I was wondering what model/brand you have of each.

 

[rookieshooter]

Both are Hobart. Stick is 230v and Mig is 115v.
The EMT tubing is welded with the 230 v stick using an 1/8 7014 rod which is really great for quick and easy welding. Do not have to keep cleaning the tip like you do on 7018. But you can't leave it long at all on one spot. First I tack the tubing up and then run a fast straight bead with no weave.
Welding with stick I have to keep doing it and keep in practice.

 

[rookieshooter]

Now working on the driver side rear. Took the Pacer flares off only to expose the evil rust...couldn't wait to take a cutting wheel to it and just cut it out and not have worry about some bondo fix.

Thought I'd show a little more detail in whats involved in cutting the stock flares off.
First I made a rough cut with cut off wheel above the hump. This was about 4" up from bottom. Then I took a lever and pulled down on the hump part. This exposes the inner wheel well that is tied into the outer hump part at the bottom.

I took my snips and cleaned up the rough cuts along the cut out part.
Then I cut some vertical cuts into the hump part. Since it is like a rolled piece that curves along the upper wheel well the cuts made it easy to bend down small pieces at a time.

Then took a saw-zal to the inner part.

Next was to make a mirror copy of the other side.
Tomorrow I'll start on the last one...the front driver side. Then go back and put some sheet metal skin on them.
Next I'll patch up the back inner fender well.
And remember this has a full cage that has the body sanswiched between steel plates and then tied to frame.

Had to be careful not to cover up the quick disconnects on the front fenders.

 

[CopyKat]

You owe me a keyboard and screen. I just threw up all over mine.

 

[BigDakota]

You owe me a keyboard and screen. I just threw up all over mine.

There seems to be a Critic viewing your work or they wanted to share their flu symptoms with the Forum.:thumbdwn:

 

[410Fortune]

LOL didnt your mom ever tell you if you dont have anything nice to say

geeze man comments like that make you look small

You dont have to agree with what he builds to see his love for his truck
grow up

Your BII can be picked apart too, just like all of them
I know you dont like this build, there are plenty of places I would have teken different turns as well, but I was raised with a bit of respect and smart enough to know people will do things their own way. at least hes building and wheeling, remember? run what ya brung... your turbo setup was not exactly stellar, but all you did get from here was constructive critisism and props...all those long periods when nobody said anything... thats when we were keeping our mouths shut

I just dont get that comment, that is all
funny yes, but out of place for sure

 

[rookieshooter]

Now when I go over those mall bumps the tires wont rub HA HA .
Yes sir 410 building and will be Wheeling soon. And if I have as good as success with this part of the build as the dozens and dozends other mods well, I'll let history speak for itself.
Those wide open wheel wells reminds of the 4 wheelers I used to wheel back in the early 70s. Bring back pleasant memories fo those squared off sheet metal fenders, whether it was my Land Cruiser or Jeep.
And they were modded also.



Now here is a pic of those early Bronco plastic flares. What I like about them is what's not there? The sheet metal around the tire.
Theirs is 43" on front and mine is just that.
I've got spare fenders and may even make some extras up. At $1.68 for 10' of tubing, who cares if I do slam into a tree and the sheet metal is free from my friend that has let me use his sheet metal shop through out this build.
He's one of my old racing friends from long ago.

http://www.jamesduff.com/eb/urethane.html

Me thinks $340 is a tad bit high, not counting shipping, still high if shipping is included.
Just hope as usual that this might help anyone with an idea of their own.

Just added: I'm giving it some thought as making my own rear bed inner fenders like we did on our race cars. I think people now call tubed out but with some heavy sheet metal.

 

[410Fortune]

i can tell the difference in wheelbase from that pic, I like the big open wheel wells.. I too was thinking "metal flares??" when you started this... but it came out real nice, not my taste but WTF does that have to do withyour truck? function over form I always vote

the BII is going to feel alot different now!

 

[rookieshooter]

i can tell the difference in wheelbase from that pic, I like the big open wheel wells.. I too was thinking "metal flares??" when you started this... but it came out real nice, not my taste but WTF does that have to do withyour truck? function over form I always vote

the BII is going to feel alot different now!

Thanks. I know that when I went with the radius arm rear, what a difference. Now with the longer WB and 4 linked front, I can only imagine. But I know that there will be some serious tuning of the 4 link.
I really did not want to have all kinds of suspension lift under this to get the 4 link under it.
I want to see what I have to do about unloading going up hills.
Function coupled with my pocket book rules.
Thanks you old Grand Father you.
I have not seen my oldest son in years, who know I may be one too.

 

[rookieshooter]

function over form I always vote

You hit the nail on the head. I could have used a 4' roller and an English wheel and made a uni sex flare with smooth lines, but that's not going to happen.
Or I could have just brought the ends down without angling toward the fenders, but the brush and small saplings would take a toll on it, IMO.So now I hoping that they will glance off.
Now if this was out west and rocks everywhere then I might have gone with somkind of rubber type.
But my trails are mostly wooded forest rides.
Think of these flares as side armor or side sliders. Then again who really cares anyway

 

[rookieshooter]

function over form I always vote

You hit the nail on the head. I could have used a 4' roller and an English wheel and made a uni sex flare with smooth lines, but that's not going to happen.
Or I could have just brought the ends down without angling toward the fenders, but the brush and small saplings would take a toll on it, IMO.So now I hoping that they will glance off.
Now if this was out west and rocks everywhere then I might have gone with somkind of rubber type.
But my trails are mostly wooded forest rides.
Think of these flares as side armor or side sliders. Then again who really cares anyway

 

[rookieshooter]

I posed a question at the Explorer Ranger Project forum where some hard core guys hang out about approach angle and got this really informative and thought out response. Thought I'd share

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=276480

 

[rookieshooter]

Got the last fender cut and framed out. I'll go back over and lay a seam of RTV between tube and fender.

Now here's a steel fender if there ever was one. This Toy I bought new on the show room back in 73. This is the day I drove it home.
This is what I meant when a said I liked the squared off look. But from experience of putting a quarter of a million miles on it. Those limbs and saplings tore the front of it up, not counting several replacement running lights.
Hence the beveled look of mine. Not as purdy : but as 410 said functional
So the many mods I do on this truck came from, you might just say close to 40 years of wheeling and fooling around these or go fast cars.

Now check out that back fender well on the above pic. That is the stock look.

Then after putting some Armstrong TruTacs on I cut out those rear fender wells and added one of those after market ones. Back then those large tires were just starting to get popular here on the east coast.

Now back from the glory days to real time
like I mentioned a few posts back, I like the look of those EB flares from Duff or Wild horses with the exposed fasteners. My rivets are a bit on the small side. But these larger unpainted ones in my opinion would look sweet.

Also once I start tuning the front springs and links I'll move to the back. Picked up some different spring rates for the back also.
I need to go to a lighter rear spring.

 

[rookieshooter]

enlarged all wheel wells and put some metal skin over them. I left the round part of the tube exposed for a somewhat finished look.
Also note that I kept the very end of the fender where it narrows down to inside the tubed bumper. Again this will push small saplings and brush to side.
Again just keep it simple and functional. Not to mention one of the cheapest mods that I've done. Less then $15 for all four.

Again keeping with the functional theme. I spent many hours on this truck making it easier later down the road to fix in the field or in shop. Hence the lift up flap over gas tank which some scoffed at : What a pain it was to get to fuel filter. Now it's just a few minutes. In that box is much much larger fuel filter that was on this truck. Had to modify end to make it work and also kept box for the new better filter part #. This was done while the primer was drying on the fenders.
Plus there are two external fuel pumps mounted outside the tank. If one fails, which it did one day...all I do is slip the hose on the other pump that's mounted next to it. Then slip the power wire off of the bad one to the other side and I'm back out roaming the woods.
It's mods like this that I like more then even all the linked suspension which is really dime a dozen anymore and don't even raise an eyebrow. But the unique stuff is really fun.
And the one I really like is when the warm weather hits and all back drops down and the doors come off.
Not to mention it keeps the naysayers busy LOL.

 

[BigDakota]

Your design of the flares look good completed and functional. You might have to widen you rocker skid bars to protect that extra width you added with tires and flares. I guess that all depends on how much mother earth and rock you want to get yourself into. There is no doubt that adding the access hatch for the fuel pump was a smart design. Anyone who has changed those flippin pumps out ,wished they could have gotten to it from the top.

 

[rookieshooter]

Your design of the flares look good completed and functional. You might have to widen you rocker skid bars to protect that extra width you added with tires and flares. I guess that all depends on how much mother earth and rock you want to get yourself into. There is no doubt that adding the access hatch for the fuel pump was a smart design. Anyone who has changed those flippin pumps out ,wished they could have gotten to it from the top.

May have to think along those lines. Thanks.
In fact I'm going to turn the rear flares into a small exo-cage protectant to protect that rear quarter panel. Front fenders I have several sets, but not the back.
Those off-camber rides on these WV mountain wet trails can be a little damaging when the rear wants to slide into an old Red Oak.

Obviously I need to fix the area that was cut out. This is looking straight down from the driver side.
The rear bed cage you can see in the top of the pic. I'll use that as a structural brace to enhance the strength of the outside flare.

First I found some tubing that has a radius that lays along both edges.
Then later it will be welded to the diagonal support of the cage.

Now it's apparent where this is going. Then both the outside and inside sheet metal will fasten to the tube.
So now I'll have an inside part of the cage that will protect the rear quarter panel.
But also it is directly in-line with the tubed flair. So now if one was so inclined could take a 20 pound sledge hammer and slam the rear flair with no damage to the quarter panel.
Not mentioning using the rear flair as a turning/pivot point against a rock or tree.
Not that I'm going to any time soon...at least not in the next week. But a month of hunting starting in 2 weeks, who knows.
Those open areas will all be tied into the new side cage giving it a true monocoque design which in itself is a benefit to a choped top truck.
So now you might even say that the flair itself is now a mini exo-cage.
Later I would really like to get one of those small tubing benders and make a flair that actually penetrates throught the side of the truck and attaches to the diagonal of the cage acting as both a flair and a small exo cage. Hmmm.



On another note, I'm tired of waiting for the 7 degree reamer from Snap-on.
They said it still on back order...next thing I said was forget it.
Going to find one today and be done with it.

Also some new 5 on 5.5 rims will be ordered.

 

[james t]

Dude forget buying a reamer if its that much trouble. I will mail you mine as long as you promise to mail it back. It will be at least 2 months before i need it (doing a project for a buddy) Let me know if you want it.

For what it's worth- way back when i was shopping for one i heard from more than one source that the Snap-On reamer wasnt very good, so i got one from Goodson.

 

[rookieshooter]

I sent you a PM in case you don't still have my address.
I'll use plenty of cutting oil (Super Lube) and it will be returned quick.
If for some reason it breaks I'll get you another one from your source.
Thanks for all the help youv'e done in the past also.

I'll also reinburse shipping
And no electric drill,hand turn