Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

[rookieshooter]

Funny how after you post a pic you see something wrong or at least not as good as it could be. Need to go back out and fix?

There it is mounted, bracket painted and wired.

 

[rookieshooter]

There, now you can see why I went out and fixed the problem that I talked about a few pics back. Just not safe having those wires laying on the outside of the cage.

 

[rookieshooter]

Going over all CO's for wear and changing spring rates to softer springs for even more flex.
I'm also measuring the spring coil diameters (the actuall diameter of the coil wire, not outside coil diameter), lengths and how much they're rated for compression @ 1".
The front springs are 12" long and heavier .478" dia. springs and rated at 250#. Going to try a 14" long, smaller .438" dia springs and rated at only 150# compression @ 1".
this is a substantial decrease in spring rate and should be interesting. Keep in mind that I don't have sway bars either.

Here I got the first front CO changed to the longer softer spring. It's still on jack stands at this point.

 

[kert0307]

Waiting for new flex shots

 

[rookieshooter]

It's alive I tell you, it's alive. That's the feeling I got with the totally new springs at all 4 corners and adjusted for the same elevation that it had this morning when I first started with the new suspension set-up.
It's just a totally different beast to drive, what a blast.
The springs on it now resemble go kart springs in comparison to what was on there before.
I was a little worried about going into the turns with such a light spring. But again all that work lowering the center of gravity paid off again in extreme corner handling.
It just hugged the road.
Now if it still had the stock heavy doors, battery mounted high in engine compartment, heavy stock hood, all the AC and cast iron block and heads, heavy seats, back roof and seats and about 500 pounds of other stuff, then yes it would need a sway bar most likely.
But what was totally unexpected was how the truck now is so animated when braking, giving it gas and even when it shifts with that B&M shift kit.
It looks and acts now like a real life vehicle out of the movie..."Cars".
It used to move more then any other truck I ever drove before but now it's totally ridiculous, but in a very fun way. Best way to describe it is that it kind of rolls the front around in a clockwise roll when you punch it.
This truck now flexes just going straight down the highway when you punch it HA HA.
But like all the other mods that I've done to the suspension, it will become the norm before to long and I won't even notice it...much.
And yes Kert I'll get some shots, but it won't do it justice untill some longer COs come in.

Here's the new ones in the rear.

The old blue ones that were on front compared to the red ones that are on it now. The truck is just so light that I really was over sprung.

While I had the shocks off, I thought it would be a good time to check the integrity of the welds at frame end and especially those where I welded the stud to the joints. The top joints are the ones that I welded the studs to the joints and are just as I expected...fine. The bottom joints had the studs cast into them and I bet my welded ones will hold as good or better.

All spherical bearings on the CO's were inspected for wear and all were in excellent shape.

Setting height of springs.

 

[rookieshooter]

Well the new diff guard did what it's supposed to when truck came to an abrupt stop while testing flex.

Just doing a little preliminary testing of the 150# springs.
Just keeps getting better.

Could only think of what it would look like if I had longer coilovers. Plus I did not take out the pin in the rear radius arms which would have let it even flec more. Did not feel like laying on my back during rain to put back in...Lazy I suppose.

But with the increased flex came a little clearance problem with the u-joint.
You can see some faint contact where the cast numbers are.

Nothing a little grinding wouldn't cure.
The 4 link keeps the pinion angle basically the same as it cycles, but it's the driveshaft that changes. May adjust the links to increase the angle of the pinion. Right now it's only 6 deg pointing up and may change to 9. This would lessen the angle of the driveshaft during droop and that is when the clearance issue arises.

 

[rookieshooter]

Did just a little more testing on the suspension after clearancing drive shaft yoke.
This 4link is suffering from the Butterfly Effect. That is, a pig in China sneezes on some poor farmer and a month later it effects my flex ha ha.

Tightening nuts after setting pinion angle.

Case in point about the Butterfly effect. Changed pinion angle from 6 to 9 which really opened up the space between bearing cap and yoke.
Did this by adjusting links.
So now there is no problem between bearing cap and yoke, but new problem is the drive shaft hits the exhaust pipe when hitting bump.
I new it was close and was going to change the route of the pipe, but now it is a first class priority. Will order new close radius mandrel bent exhaust tomorrow.

Also it was time to change oil for the second time after installing new cam from Comp Cams.
As per Comp Cams suggestion I added some more Zinc additive with the oil change. This will be the last time for that. Then just use oil with enough Zinc for flat tappet high valve spring pressure engines.

 

[rookieshooter]

Since I'll be taking the Chopped top and matching trailer to my wifes company picnic, thought I'd better at least get some of the cow crap off the sides and and up under fender. That crap must be what they distill to make super glue...what a pain to get off.

Since this has a about a $50 paint job and I'll be against some real show trucks, thought I better do something that at least tries to show what this truck is about.
This is by no means the limit of flex, but the limit that I feel safe jacking it up.
The jack with the wooden block got a little tipsy there.
Also that back tire was no where near coming off the ground with the rear radius arms wristed by removing pin

Then if someone asks me about trail riding I'll be better able to explain what I mean by all those cool words like...instant centers, anti squat, roll centers and the those words just keep on going and going ha ha.

There will be plenty of 4x4s there and it will be fun talking with those guys.

Now with the pin removed and the front tire jacked up you can see why I made that girdle. Just keeps the rubber bushing in good shape.
You can see how the bushing has slid past the hole.

 

[rookieshooter]

Now this is a steel supplier if there ever was one.
Just bought two 12 foot sticks of 1" x 1" x 1/8" tubing for $26. Now price that amount at Lowe's or your friendly hardware.

Now if your wondering what I'm I going to do with most of this square stock?

Going to get rid of this eye sore of a hole ridden inner piece. The inner fender well I got rid of long time ago.
Plus it's just plain in the way when working on the side of the engine compartment.
Now on my passenger car it's 100% stock, but no way on this truck I'm I going to have to work any harder on changing plugs or what ever then necessary.
I've already started to cut it off by the long horizontal cut that you see.
The finished product will be slightly heavier then the thin sheet metal piece but with a better appearance and a whole lot more functional then that lame piece I'm going to cut out.
But more importantly, it's just so damn fun to do haha.

And when I do the driver side, why in the world with all the work to have a substantially lowered COG, do I want a gallon of water mounted so high.
Hope to get it a few feet lower and more in middle of truck. But that's for another day.

Getting ready to temporally install upper support.
Of course this has to be done in a way that is as structurally sound as before or even better.
Also the quick detachable fenders still have to work along with the hood and radiator support to be in the exact location.

Mounting ends have to have a good fit and located just right to be structurally sound. Yes there are going to be more supports.
Now the radiator supports have new body mounts installed under it. This was done a few years ago.

The sheet metal brace I took out was held in place by spot welds. This will have linear welds along with bolts and plates.
Need to move over to the radiator side next.
When done it will have the age old triangulation configuration.

 

[rookieshooter]

Now it is basically done with all welds done. There is a vertical 1/4" plate at the extreme right hand side. I'll attach some plates on the left hand side from the body panels to the tubing also even though they are welded to the body. This will spread out any front end collision load.

Next I'll primer and paint.

After that I'll do some wheeling, and don't think for a minute that I'm not taking off the front fenders. Getting more like a buggy type thing.

Also there is an existing angle tubes support at each end near the radiator that is angled from it to the new side support just above where I cut it off. You can see it in the above pic.
Now it just became even easier to work on. Can even set on tire to change plugs.

 

[rookieshooter]

Fender is on and the quick release fastners hooks-up fine.
This is looking up under the steel tubed fender. Nothing but engine and coilovers.
Tomorrow I'll have to prime and paint as the heat and humidity should not be as high.
There are some wires that ought to be in a loom near the fan housing. Looks like it could stand some paint also now that it's in the open.
You think I've got enough room for some larger tires?

 

[rookieshooter]

Primed and painted.

Removed some wiring on back side of this panel along with the wiper tank.
Just did the top horizontal cut.

 

[hoss_hanna]

every time i check out this thread i turn green with envy! btw i got those parts u sent me on then realized that all the wobbling the old spindle had been doing broke my caliper, so im still drivin the taurus for another week

 

[rookieshooter]

every time i check out this thread i turn green with envy! btw i got those parts u sent me on then realized that all the wobbling the old spindle had been doing broke my caliper, so im still drivin the taurus for another week

Glad you got the parts, but that sucks about the caliper. Sorry don't have one.

Driver side started.

Here are the two flimsy side panels. They're about two quages thicker then Reynolds Wrap. They measure around .039 where as I'm making the new ones out of triangulated .120". Not so much I'm doing this for strength but it's going to be a breeze to work on the engine, not that it wasn't before.
Plus I just love the tubed front side pieces. Looks so racy HA HA IMO.

Never was to big on watching clouds in my coffee, but watching clouds swirling around in my molted steel...well, that's the cat's meow.

 

[rookieshooter]

Some cleaning up in the wire dept. might be in order, along with relocated wiper reservoir to a more lower COG friendly location.

Now to go out and do some trails less the fenders

I'll have a good view of the terrain, sans the quick release doors and quick release fenders.

 

[hoss_hanna]

love the way u got that set up.

 

[terribleII89]

the outter fenders will attach to that right?... i wonder what your neighbors think every tine they look out of the window and that thing and how it has somethin different done to it every time

 

[james t]

Man you work fast. I dont check the thread for a few days and come back to find you've done what would have taken me 3 months. :

 

[rookieshooter]

Thanks Hoss, it is starting to take shape.
He, terrible11, check out the vid of the fender.
James, I just think about all those years without a garage and how hard it was depending on weather. Now it's just a cake walk.

Got rid of all those dangling and unprotected wires under heater motor as in first pic.

Now to get rid of this birds nest. All these wires were on backside of that sheet metal inner piece I junked.

Also while I'm on a getting rid of ugly stuff...that piece of crap plastic or fiberglass grill that goes around headlights and connects to the top of the radiator support is just plain cheap and nasty looking. Although I did cut out the El Cheapo middle part and made a steel tubed center section the rest of it is crap.
I'm talking all STEEL but follow along the same lines it has now. Maybe frame around the headlights like it is now but with square tubing and mitered corners.
All ready have steel tubed fenders might as well have the same thing for a grill.
It's just a matter of time that a limb wrecks havoc on it.
Just got a brain storm of an idea while I was reading this overlong post. Why not continue the upper 1" x 1" tube that I made for the top horizontal peice out a few more inches and then proceed with going around headlights and continuing around to other side. Then have a good structural way to fasten that to the radiator support. Hmmm
Or use some smaller 5/8 sq. tubing. Hmmm again.
It would also have to be located across the front so that the existing foam that is there now will fasten to it so air does not go under my hood and make it want to fly off truck haha.

This little box of electrical connectors and dodads has been with this build since day one and is one of the most used tool boxes I have regarding this build.
Those yellow covered wires are my main power supply for all the front lights.
It also has two headlight relays wired with it. Now all the heavy amps go thru them instead of the headlight switch.

Now that's a whole lot better looking.

Terrible11, this is for you. Here are the quick disco's for fenders. This style is older then dirt and have proven them selfs in the racing world.
This is what the plunger pushes down to. Then it's just a simple quarter turn of the plunger that has a cam style cut in it that latches onto the spring and snaps in place.

Then just how long does it take to disconnect the side marker light and remove fender either for trail rides or more often then not, engine compartment maintenance...count the seconds.
Check the link below
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v81/honda2nr4life/Dana44 build/?action=view&current=MOV04723.mp4

 

[james t]

Cheers to that. I built my first early Bronco in a driveway. A steep, unlevel driveway at that. On jackstands come-a-long'ed to a tree to keep it from going over. :