Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

[rookieshooter]

Thanks Turdle.
Darn it's hot out there. I just saw a Rabbit dog chasing a rabbit and they both were walking. That east coast humidity is high.
Got a little window AC in the garage and it's already struggling to keep it cool.

Getting ready for the big push. Already called my DS shop to make a custom rear shaft.
The good thing is even when I relocate the frame bracket that's laying on ground I still can run the same DS untill the new one is made. It's all in the adjustments.
Then when I get it just turn the bushings some.
So hopefully by the end of the day it will be 100 plus inches.
If there is any conflict with the rear of the gas tank skid plate, well that will be history. Do not mean that I won't have any, just more room.
I did a lot of research on WB lengths, and as expected they're all over the map as far as an exact length goes.
But no matter what trails you do it seems that no one wants less then 100" and I can understand that. And on the other end, seems no longer then 112", then the breakover sucks.
I do know that my increased WB is going to lessen the abuse on all drive line and suspesion parts But to each their own.

 

[james t]

I did a lot of research on WB lengths, and as expected they're all over the map as far as an exact length goes.
But no matter what trails you do it seems that no one wants less then 100" and I can understand that. And on the other end, seems no longer then 112", then the breakover sucks. But to each their own.

It depends greatly on tire size and belly height, and to an extent on type of terrain wheeled. Shorter does better on the western rock garden style wheeling. Longer does better on the central/eastern big hillclimbs.

112" on 35's on an Explorer is a little long, but not that big of a deal. 112" on a buggy on 49's is reeeeaaaally short.

 

[rookieshooter]

I have 33s now. What would you suggest with 100"? Don't forget this is a DD also.
I know I'll have to regear.

I can understand about the 49" on 112 but I'm thinking no less then 35 and around 38s or so for the larger size. To high a tire and there goes COG especially on shorter WB trucks and that's what I want to get away from.
Where I live there is a mix of rocks and wooded trails and some just too steep for this kid.

See ya, back out in the garage that never sleeps ha ha

 

[MrQ]

Don't forget this is a DD also.

Wait...this is a DD??

 

[rookieshooter]

Wait...this is a DD??

Now that's funny.
Ever since my 97 X took a dump and my wife won't let me drive her car.
She's afraid it just won't be the same

I have to get a special modified inspection sticker each year and it costs me $10 more a year then a regular inspection and only a few places do this kind of inspection in my state. It is even shaped different and every cop that passes me looks for that sticker.
Of course the truck changes appearance each week and most don't even think it's the same truck...in my dreams maybe ha ha.

Then again if it was not a DD, then I would really build a Trail rig.
Driving this tagged truck really puts a damper on this build.

 

[rookieshooter]

Need to go out and grind some rivets off the passenger side frame to relocate that side mounting bracket for the front of the radius arm.
Had to come in and replenish my vital body fluids. Ya, it's just that hot.

 

[rookieshooter]

I know you're going with 35's one day, and 100-104" is just about perfect for them IMHO. Long enough to be a stable hillclimber yet still short enough to work good on the tight trails and not have a horrible breakover.

Sorry James, I did not notice that you already answered my question before I even asked on post #2264.

There you go 100" WB street driven B2. Finally Relocated the back brackets.
But adjusted it back to 99.5" by adjusting the bushings untill I do some D'S work.
100 will be the minimum. Once the drive shaft work is done, look out.
Just can't wait to test out on some hills. This one mod took it from an ordinary DD/trail rig to something a little more leaning towards the trail end part of it. But just so much more to do yet.

That rear shock went from 76 deg, to 79.

Going to have to remove a little more metal around the gas tank for the track bar.
And if that does not work then relocate that end of track bar on side of the bracket favoring the center of truck. Of course add another tab.

Just seems I always had these nuts backing off. Now the handles went from 10" to 24"...no more backing off.

 

[rookieshooter]

My first little ride around town and it just keeps getting smoother on the bumps.
But being now that the one end of the rear track bar that is connected to the axle needs to be relocated more toward horizontal with the axle tube. Not that it hits the metal a little near the gas tank. But because it causes the rear to be a Little harsher on the larger bumps. Reason is that when it was parallel with the axle tube it could push the rear outward a little when it cycles down. But now it's more difficult to push on the axle outward because of the links not allowing it to do so.
It sounds funny but you can't imagine how many times I just took a pencil between both hands and you can feel how the forces change as you move one hand in relation to the other. This is something you can't feel on one of those computer programs.
Example: Hold a pencil between both hands. Now you left hand is the frame mounted end of the TB. Your right is the axle. Hold your left hand a little higher and move straight down. As you move down it will push your right hand out to the right. Untill it comes perfectly horizontal. This is that funny little push you feel in the rear of a track bar equipped rear. But now to explain what is happening to my suspension with the track bar now running at a slight angle and why it is a little harsh on the larger bumps.
Keep your left hand at the same spot but move your right hand in toward your body.
Now when you move your left hand down it still wants to push out. But here is the problem. Now it can't do so as much because now the links won't let it go back on the right hand side cause their is no allowance for it. Pushing directly sideway as in the first example is no problem cause the bushing are more designed to do so.
I even used this simple little example in my front 4 link. Just use two pencils and you can even see and feel how the different lengths and angles affect the pinion angle.
OK, so much with that.

Just added: This truck is very sensitive to any andjlustment or changes. Think about it, the cage is tied into the frame, the seats are tied into the cage, plus the seats are very firm (Honda seats), solid motor mounts, engine cage and the best joints on the market with no slop.
So any changes are extremely easy for the driver to notice including body movment.

 

[CopyKat]

My first little ride around town and it just keeps getting smoother on the bumps.
But being now that the one end of the rear track bar that is connected to the axle needs to be relocated more toward horizontal with the axle tube. Not that it hits the metal a little near the gas tank. But because it causes the rear to be a Little harsher on the larger bumps. Reason is that when it was parallel with the axle tube it could push the rear outward a little when it cycles down. But now it's more difficult to push on the axle outward because of the links not allowing it to do so.
It sounds funny but you can't imagine how many times I just took a pencil between both hands and you can feel how the forces change as you move one hand in relation to the other. This is something you can't feel on one of those computer programs.
Example: Hold a pencil between both hands. Now you left hand is the frame mounted end of the TB. Your right is the axle. Hold your left hand a little higher and move straight down. As you move down it will push your right hand out to the right. Untill it comes perfectly horizontal. This is that funny little push you feel in the rear of a track bar equipped rear. But now to explain what is happening to my suspension with the track bar now running at a slight angle and why it is a little harsh on the larger bumps.
Keep your left hand at the same spot but move your right hand in toward your body.
Now when you move your left hand down it still wants to push out. But here is the problem. Now it can't do so as much because now the links won't let it go back on the right hand side cause their is no allowance for it. Pushing directly sideway as in the first example is no problem cause the bushing are more designed to do so.
I even used this simple little example in my front 4 link. Just use two pencils and you can even see and feel how the different lengths and angles affect the pinion angle.
OK, so much with that.

LMAO Thanks for that funny for the day.

 

[rookieshooter]

Going to move the trak bar at axle end to make it more align with the rear axle since it is now moved back.
What I'm doing here is relocating it on outside of trak bar favoring the middle of truck.
And at that angle to axle I'll still have room to shove back even further without having to relocate the trak bar.
It will be double sheared when all said and done even though the bolt is passing through two tabs at one end. But first need to go out and bounce it around a little to check the ride out.

 

[rookieshooter]

Stand to reason all this pushing of front and rear axles that some more drive shaft mods will be in order.
Especially since I want to do some testing on the departure and approach angles. Have not done any since pushing the rear back even further.
But the DSs are just too short, imagine that.
Today it's the front one.
This is the front shaft that I made out of an Ex shaft and it's slip yoke. I also made the Slip Yoke Eliminator where it attaches to the TC.

I could have just cut the female splined end and extended it using a sleeve that would have slipped over the top and welded.
If this was just a trail rig only I might have done just that. But this truck sees Interstate travel so I'm going to re-tube and then weld on the ends
But instead of using the stock Ford diameter tube I went with a heavier .020 more wall diameter tube. The stock one was around .060 this is around .080
The problem with welding on a sleeve is that your welding on hardened steel.
And you have all the associated problem with the HAZ and post heating.
The correct way is to re-tube.
Some company's will sell you a lengthened slip yoke but this can lead to more vibration.
So as you can see in the pic above I carefully cut along the weld and just went deep enough to get through the tube.

About ready to remove the tube.

Now I need to come up with a good length. Going to have it so more can slip out then in. Plus I'll most likely will move front axle even further one day.

This was the fun part getting the tube over the yoke.
Had to hone inside just a tad.

After slipping tube on, the next thing was to true the tube with the axis of the yoke. I layed the tube in an angle piece then turned untill the splined end was perfect with the square at the far end.

Then lay down a bead.

Normally I'll never grind down a weld, but in this case I left a good gap between tube and yoke to put down a wide bead. Then use a flap wheel to grind down any high spots.
But this was done to help balance the DS. I most likely won't even have to.
Now this may not be the way others may have done this DS, but it's worked for me in the past. And the cost...$15 for tube.

Still have to put on the other end.

 

[rookieshooter]

Starting on the back yoke.
I'll true it up again by laying in a piece of angle and then measure at four points of the u-joint...turn and tap, turn and tap,tap tap untill just perfect.

Anyone wondering why that notch is missing out of the square, it's because I modified it for a DIY pinion depth gauge. That is where my dial indicator was attached.

I'll post up when done.
Plus I'm waiting on some more stuff to get here from Summit today that was on back order.

 

[rookieshooter]

All welded up. The weld connection is not at the flange to the left, but about 3/8" to the right of the flange.

Done! Beefed up and extended.

Now I'm wondering if I ought to get a price for a new lengthened rear DS complete with balancing.
And then compare with one that I can re-tube myself. Just buy the tube from the same DS shop as I did yesterday and ask him how much to balance it after I'm done. Might be worth it?

Then again if I can get the parts a 1350 style rear DS would be cool with the larger trunnions.

 

[rookieshooter]

While I got the Buzz box out, might as well get started on that over due exhaust re-routing.
Since the front axle is pushed further out there has been a clearance issue with the exhaust pipe coming off the driver side header.
This is a J bend close radius bend that I got from Summit today.
I don't like to run the exhaust using all those wide sweep ells with the slip connections if I don't have to.
This is like building one tube of a header. Just make the custom turns you need by cutting off the 180 degree bend.
That aluminized covering leaves a nasty appearance after it burns off. Like all exhaust it will rust bad where the welds were. Once done I'll paint over it.
Using a 7014 rod.
Need to get about 3' more pipe tomorrow.

 

[james t]

That's exactly how i lengthen 'em. I'll tack it all together, bolt it back under the truck and hang a plumb bob and check it for runout. Tap it around with a hammer and then burn it in. A local shop will do balance only for $10-15.

 

[rookieshooter]

Like the plumb bob idea.

Fitting up.

There it is with very few bends from header collector to 1.5" inside muffler.

And I've got it far enough away from tranny pan so the air going through those vent tubes inside the pan, won't pick up any heat from the exhaust.
I've seen so many trucks that have the exhaust right next to the pan...not good. Especially the ones that have the exhaust crossing right in front of pan. Which heats the air up before it even reaches the pan where the air is supposed to help transfer the heat away from pan (convection). Then throw in the radiant heat from the exhaust pipe itself. And then wonder why your tranny fluid is running on the hot side.

Also finished up with relocating the rear track bar due to shoving axle back. Next...go out and test the better departure angle and other angles due to the longer WB.

That front DS angle just keeps getting less and less. The rear DS is also getting shallower.

 

[rookieshooter]

Took a time out and took the B2 to a car and truck show. Can't go wheeling for awhile untill some more mods are done and might as well talk to the 4 wheelers and other gear heads.

Nice, I mean real nice.

And best of all, it was all free. No entry fee and all the food you could eat for nothing.

There was a NASCAR simulator there along with the National Guard with it's 4x4 Hummer.

Here's the underside of the Hummer.
Like the way not too much hanging down.

I wanted to lick the windshield of this one.

Got a few flash backs with this one. Dang I miss those days.
100 of these were made and it even came with aluminum bumpers.

If I do black again, it will be like this 29 Model A. It's PPG satin black single stage.

Oh ya, it was a bike show also.

OK, a little brag ha ha. I no doubt had the worst paint job, but the judges in the truck competition really liked all the mods and ignored all the dings, scratches and dirt. Instead they asked question like "was that a full width D44" and "what kind of approach angles to you have". Then I knew these judges weren't only interested in all that bling stuff. Took a few minutes to describe it all.
And it drove away with a Best Overall trophy. But talking to all the guys about wheeling was worth more then that trophy.

 

[rookieshooter]

Finally relocated the rear track bar toward front to allow for the rear axle being pushed back. The track bar was on the right of the inside tab.
I just added a 3/8" tab to the left of the heim end.
Also need to cut off some of the tube to allow for a jamb nut.
Once I get the new rear drive shaft made, I'll even push it a little more to the rear.
Still have to modify the gas tank skid plate and move gas tank just a bit.
But well worth it.
It really is amazing once you get to 100" how much more sweet this is to drive on the highway. Just the straight line drive by itself is worth. The washboard affect going down a dirt road is so much smoother. It gives more time for the front coilovers to stop cycling before rear coilovers hits the same bump.
Also all the off road benefits which was my number 1 concern has improved so much. Mainly up and down hill climbs.

Now back to the weight removal of the rear tail gate.
Bought some 303 thin guage stainless to give some what of a finished appearance to the inside of the tailgate with out adding too much weight.
This tailgate probably weighs less then 9 pounds. And again this is weight that is high above the frame which I don't like. Not mentioning more strain on driveline.
I put a reinforcing bead down the middle.
I like what a NASCAR crew chief once said, "the ounces take care of the pounds".

Using a pneumatic pop rivet gun on the bottom.

Done.

Now it won't twist as it did before I put the backside on.

 

[rookieshooter]

After a newbie posted a question about has anyone on this site ever made their own bumpers or nerf bars.
And his 80 year old mom has a hard time getting into his beloved B2, it inspired this Dad to do something I've needed to do for some time now, due to some bad knees (both operated on) and a hip that's no so good.
It's just getting harder to lift leg up and get in this thing let alone larger tires are on the list.
Summer time is not to bad, but winter when I'm hunting and have those 2000gram Thinsulate boots on, it gets much harder.
Now summer time with my Chuck Taylors on...not to bad. Getting down is a breeze.

Now this is a work in progress fold down and retractable step ha ha . Picture makes it look longer then what it is.
And yes I get a senior discount at Dunkin Coffee.
I was thinking of going parallel links at first. Then an inverted Y. But the single link, I do believe will work just fine.
Once done it will raise up by pulling up on link and locking the link close to floor next to seat.
So you might say that it is locked and wristed also.
It only sticks down 3/4" below slider in locked mode.
If it hits a rock...well to bad, better my knees feeling better then worry about that gadget.
Hmmm, might just think about a walker next :

Just noticed after posting that I'll need to turn the heim end around before attaching so Zerk fitting is in better position for manintenance.

 

[Maniak]

Now this is a work in progress fold down and retractable step ha ha . Picture makes it look longer then what it is.

More pics. I'm about ready to build Sliders for the X and the In-laws already have issues getting in the X (both Are over 70).

Its just as bad with the Van so I was thinking I could do something like that there too. Sliders with steps like that which don't hang down much (it is a 4x4 van).

I've already taken some ideas from what you have done.. Whats one more?

~Mark