Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

[rookieshooter]

You know, every time I see this thread pop up in my inbox, I keep saying to myself, "What has he done NOW??"

My sentiments exactly ha ha.

Now here is the instrument cluster in the stock location.

And here it is in the new stretched forward location. Hey stretched the wheel base, why not the cab area
First thing I noticed when I took it for a quick ride was how much easier it is to see the gauges.
In the stock angle they are more vertical.
Now with the instrument cluster panel pushed back at more of an angle, what a difference in ease of checking out all those readings. Not to mention the gauges appear so much larger. And that is so noticeable between the first and second pics.
The foam padding around dash that I took out let me move the Ins. panel further back.
Now the second thing that I never thought about was how much more room it gives the driver. It's like driving another truck.

I have a friend that has the same gauges in his truck with a custom aluminum dash that is all painted black, and it looks so sharp with those AutoMeter silver anodized bezels. May have to do the whole dash in black.

Can't wait to get started in framing out the next part of this mod.

 

[shawn.m]

hmm wouldnt that ignition switch look good on the dash? run a stinger from the cage to the steering wheel rod to support it

 

[rookieshooter]

Actually the ignition switch is on the dash
It's the red toggle switch that has the safety cover over it. It also has a light that comes on when switched to the on position.
The key is for the starter motor. This way I can turn the engine over for various reasons with out it firing.
But adding a starter button/key and putting it on dash would be cool.
And that way I could make a custom cover for the steering wheel shaft instead of the plastic one that really don't fit tight up against the dash now anyway.

 

[rookieshooter]

Made the little scoop for the defrost driver side windshield.
Also decided it would be better to go ahead and paint while it was out of the truck.
Welded on two tabs at either end to fasten to pillars.

Starting to fab up the frame on passenger side.
The black box between those two up-rights is the middle vent.

 

[rookieshooter]

I must admit I like the black with the silver.

On the passenger side all that's left basically is to put some skin on the frame.
No matter what material I use, it will be black.
I have some really heavy aluminum that I might go with. Just to thick to cut by hand so a trip to the sheet metal shop would be planned.

I'll make a special spot for the MSD box. I do not think I'll cover it up, but leave it exposed. One reason is they put off heat, the cooler you keep them the longer they last.
That's the reason I do not have it in the engine compartment.

Then move on over to driver side.

Like to point out that the dash is actually part of the cage the way I've got the frame welded to it.

 

[rookieshooter]

The wife has noticed a strange correlation of Pizza being ordered compared to the amount of fabricating I'm doing Hmmm. And sometimes I might even take a bite just so she doesn't make the connection

 

[rookieshooter]

Dang this is slow, averaging about 1 linear inch an hour on this dash. Now that also includes going out for the early Deer season in the morning also
Like I said the dash frame is structurally tied into the cage and also including some off shooting supports. So now the dash its self becomes an extension of the cage.

Might as well keep some of this build Period Correct :

I love where the exterior skin adds to the strength of the frame, reminds me of the Curtis P-40 Warhawk and P-51 Mustang.
Had a Good old friend on mine who passed away and was a generation removed from me who flew those planes in hostile skies in combat during WW2 when he was in his early 20s.
Thanks Bob. RIP

 

[rookieshooter]

Made a template for the extreme back of the recessed area.
It's made out of 3/16" aluminum plating. Needs to be heavy so MSD box can fasten too.

Rough cut out.

Finished.

Still need to paint all that plastic hanging below dash, black.

May add some kind of, Oh Sh#t bar later. Right side would be connected to tube coming from Coil hoop and left side to the square tubing in corner behind the sheet metal.

Next will be the driver side. No biggie on that side.
Well it may not be purdy, but it ain't no Grocery getter dash either.
Well from clouds in my coffee a couple days ago to a new dash...almost.

 

[general x]

Looks Damn purdy to me! Reminds me of an older Semi truck dash. Pure function, and function is sexy!

 

[MrQ]

Guess you need to shoot the vent black too.

 

[rookieshooter]

Ya, General, that's what I was tying to come up with, an Old School Look glad you noticed.

Mr Q, I rattled can the dash first without the vent, and was about to paint the bottom red plastic black, when to my dismay, it gave up the ghost.
But a trip to the hardware store today, will remedy that problem.
I don't like it either. It draws away from the gauge cluster.

Be nice to get started on the front radiator support by cutting it all out and replacing with some DOM tubing tieing it into the cage.
I really think it would be far easier then the dash was.

 

[MrQ]

It looks really good rookie, I was just joshin'.

 

[rookieshooter]

Starting to frame out the Left side.

 

[rookieshooter]

This pneumatic pop riveter is great when doing all these rivets.
Just drill, insert all the pop rivets and pop pop pop.

Well I've turned the corner and in the Home Stretch.
I'll be done tomorrow. Just have to put the metal on that goes below dash and the steering column cover. They will be black also.

 

[rookieshooter]

Funny how Good comes of Good.
A neighbor of mine brought down his little tractor that had plow attachment that was bent. We straightened it out and welded some 2x2x1/4" angle on the backside of the blade.
A few hours later he came back with a whole box of welding rods for me and then asked me if I had any use for a custom built tubed ladder rack complete with manrel bent curves that went full length over his pick-up truck? It was cut in half length wise and laying in the bed of his truck. He said he new that I was going to tube in the radiator support and tie it into the cage.
My responce...Is it unloaded yet?
So looks like I'll go straight into the Rad support mod without missing a beat.
I'll even have enough left over to do some other mods I have planned for it.
It's becoming Buggy status more and more.

 

[rookieshooter]

Just more fun to wheel without the front fenders on. Not mentioning the ease of maintenance on the front end.

Be cool to have it looking somewhat like this, with just a tad bit of imagination when the front fenders are removed
http://4wheeloffroad.automotive.com/96877/131-0901-4x4-rock-buggy-bodywork-plumbing/photos0-0.html

But more importantly it would give the whole truck a complete uni-cage construction with obvious benefits.
This mod has always been on the back burner, untill shawn came around and moved to the front burner :
Wonder how many others have thought the same thing?

 

[rookieshooter]

Remember this?

Well here it is now including the headlight and body lift
That alone makes me want to get this done. That's why I'm doing one side at a time. Hope it all works out
Getting the headlights in there is going to be Trick.
Hate to have only a Daytime Daily Driver only

Here is the first tube. I've taken a lot of measurements along with pics and decided that this one will be the bench mark for all the rest.
It has the hood pin and also the hood stop attached to it, well at least when it's done.

Plus it is the exact length of the old sheet metal radiator support that will be welded to the fender struts.
There will be other tube supports that will tie all this into the frame including triangulations.



I just need a break from that dang dash
And so glad to get rid of that trashy piece of metal.

 

[rookieshooter]

Removed headlight from the sheet metal.

I trashed the 3" body lift and made this vertical support with a 3" round 1/4" plate that will sit over the hole in frame where the BL used to be.
This will run right up against the radiator.

All welds are with 220 Arc with 7018 structural rod.
The vertical support on the right still needs to be finished welded.

I've got a built in crush zone the way I've got new supports angled toward the cage and hoop.

So far I've got one vertical support coming off of the original body mount bracket, one coming off coil hoop at lower frame connection and one off new cage support.
Now there will be some more, but these are the main structural ones.
Including a bunch of bracket for various things.

Also need to run a brace out from the higher new brace to the middle of the fender struts where the two vertical pieces come together.
Once they're painted red it will look more like it's part of the cage.
Stronger and safer now then the day it rolled off the show room floor.

 

[rookieshooter]

Hmm, just thought of something, instead of messing with all that sheet metal for the headlights that I need for adjustments, Just take off those Hella driving lights off of bumper and move up for headlights. Just one simple adjusting nut and extremely bright. Just make sure there not pointing up too high.
The headlights that are there now allready have relays installed, so I won't even have to worry about that. Then later if I want add another pair of lights to bumper.
The mounting bracket would be a piece of cake with just one mounting hole.
Even when off the way the lens and reflectors are made they look like cut crystal.
I mean they are called Driving lights and would really look better then having all that sheet metal behind them that I would have to frame out for.
Plus just that more of an Off Road look.
I think that's worth a couple of Atta boys ha ha

 

[MrQ]

I was wondering if you were gonna do that...

Sounds like a good idea.

Atta boy, Rookie!