Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

[janderson4010]

my inserts didn't have the spot for the wrench on them but they were made for round 1.5" id, they welded in really nice despite being a round peg in a square hole so to speak, I welded the corners in and then welded all the way around. 2x2x1/4" is what everyone around here uses as link material, at least the hardcore guys that don't have much money, and no problems that im aware of, its pretty heavy stuff. one guy bent his tube truss on his 4 link but no bent links in that system, he uses the 2x2.

its a lot cheaper I priced out 2" dom and it would have been more than 2x the cost of the square, and I was able to buy a full stick, I have enough to do my brothers extended radius arms as well as all 3 of my links. I guess the short answer would be that it is plenty strong and I would have no problem recommending it to anyone.

the only problem is that square isn't as "cool", of course you haven't had any problems using the "uncool" square tube in the past haha

 

[rookieshooter]

Thanks, but just went into garage I found out that the heim ends I have will not fit the 7/8 hole cause mine are 3/4 so it looks like it might just be DOM anyway.
So if you guys get a killer price on 1 3/4 x 1/4 wall DOM two 6' long let me know.

 

[janderson4010]

Thanks, but just went into garage I found out that the heim ends I have will not fit the 7/8 hole cause mine are 3/4 so it looks like it might just be DOM anyway.
So if you guys get a killer price on 1 3/4 x 1/4 wall DOM two 6' long let me know.

I used 7/8" heims from ruffstuff for my trackbar, i also ordered the 1 3/4" dom from ruffstuff, and it was expensive! About 60 bucks for 4 ft with shipping, my 2x2 was 96 for 20'. So what ID is your tube adapter made for? 1.25 i guess huh?

 

[rookieshooter]

I used 7/8" heims from ruffstuff for my trackbar, i also ordered the 1 3/4" dom from ruffstuff, and it was expensive! About 60 bucks for 4 ft with shipping, my 2x2 was 96 for 20'. So what ID is your tube adapter made for? 1.25 i guess huh?

I have no adapters yet just 8 heims that are 3/4" shank. Was hoping to find a square adapter that would take the 3/4 shank.

 

[janderson4010]

Can u find a tube adapter for 1.5" id tube that accomadates a 3/4 heim? Round tube adapters work really well in square tube. I wouldnt waste my money on square tube adapters, they are overpriced and unnecessary.

 

[rookieshooter]

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/34-16tpi-Hex-Tube-Adapter_p_1431.html

Like this one? Go to the drop down box and it lists a 1.5 OD

 

[janderson4010]

I have no adapters yet just 8 heims that are 3/4" shank. Was hoping to find a square adapter that would take the 3/4 shank.

size 6 is what you need to use your 3/4" 16tpi rod ends with 1.5" od tube, I realize we are talking about ordering from Ballistic here but they are supposed to be getting better.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/34-16-tpi-Tube-Adapter_p_1402.html

 

[janderson4010]

haha posted almost the same link at exactly the same time lol

 

[janderson4010]

yes the hex ones would be nice for adjusting, of course with square if you have a big crescent or a 2" wrench its easy to hook onto them.

 

[rookieshooter]

Cool, just saved a ton of money. Even if there were a little slop in the part that went into the sq tubing, I could drill a little hole on the side and plug weld it. Just make sure my cut of saw is set dead on 90 deg cut and then flush the adapter in.
Cool

 

[janderson4010]

no I had to tap mine in with a mallet, they fit in there pretty dang good, a plug weld wouldn't be a bad idea though.

 

[rookieshooter]

Well just ordered my 5.13 with rebuild kit from East Coast Gear Supply who is also a vendor on this site.
Great service!
Now to order some more items for the rear axle mod.
I know it sounds like I'm flip flopping on the rear links from DOM to Sq, but when I got under there with the 2x2 it seemed to grow to 3x3 lol. Being it's a dbl tri-anglulated that 2x2 really eats up the room. So back to drawing board with the DOM. May go with the same size that's back there now which is 1.75". I'll call Speedy metals and see what they have.

Waiting on Moser engineering to give me a price on a pair of custom length stronger FF axles.

 

[rookieshooter]

Wow, talk about fast. Just received my tracking number from ECGS and it's only been hours.

 

[rookieshooter]

Picked up some goodies for the ARB install.
New Cobalt 7/16" drill bit to drill case for the air line.
New 1/4" NPT tap.
New Threadlock Red.
Still need to get Loctite #567 for pipe thread fittings. So a trip tomorrow to Fastenal is in order .
Good drill bit and tap lubrication, again Fastenal.

Not taking any chances when it comes to making good clean sharp threads for the air line connection at the case.

And one new grinder that I have a funny feeling will get it's use in the next year.

Gear delivery is scheduled for Today
Oh ya, fresh coat of paint on work table, just to get me in the mood lol.

 

[rookieshooter]

Picked up so cutting oil and the 567 Loctite. I've used the 567 on other things like a fitting that would leak with teflon tape, but the 567 sealed it up.
Great on oil, rough threads and high heat applications.

Look what showed up at my door only 2 days after ordering. East Coast Gears got their act together.
The 5.13 R&P is below the rebuild kit
Check out the vendor section.

Also I just got off the phone with Moser Engineering where I ordered a pair of 35 spline shortened axles for the D70. They will be shipped out this Friday.

 

[janderson4010]

its always nice to get boxes full of goodies, sounds like a good place to order from, also I don't think you are ever going to break 35spline d70 chromo shafts, sounds like the rear in that embodies the term "bulletproof". well done.

 

[rookieshooter]

Thanks. I'm feeling a little gloomy. Went to Fastenal this morning driving the B2 with the summertime tube doors down I-81 one of the main North South roads on the east coast.
Then it happened, a whole caravan of Broncos and crawlers passes me as they were heading down to Big Boys 4x4 park for the Bronco convention in Winchester Va.
All I could do was cry, do you know how hard it is to drive when your in the fetal position.
Next year Baby cakes, next year.
And they have trails rated from 1 to 11. This is the same place that holds the Va state Rock crawling championships.

Checking the backside of the 10.5" D70 ring gear for straightness. During the heat strengthening process this can wrap just a tab and then I'd have to hone back to a perfect flatness. This one is just fine.

B2's steerings column are not just for driving.

Starting to get ready to measure the old shim pack behind the pinion. The shims go in before the race does.
What I did was to measure the old shim pack and then replaced with new ones.
Could have used the old ones but I bent some when I removed them from the housing.

Here's the new pack up aginst the old pack. Measuring the same width as the old one as in .078"

There is another shim pack near the smaller outer bearing, but went ahead and used them.

Here is the new shim pack laying in housing before the race is placed in.

Now moving onto the front or outer bearing. I made a D70 specific outer race installer by welding the old race to a steel handle. Works like a charm.

There it is. The notch in the case is for oil.

Of course when I do the pattern test, this might just change. Now on the carrier bearings I have another set of carrier bearings coming from East Coast Gears that I'll hone out so I won't have to keep taking the bearings on and off of the ARB. Once I get the right pattern and backlash then I'll remove the set-ups and press on the real ones.
I like to use the same brand set-ups as the final bearings.

 

[janderson4010]

that kids is how its done! one thing I would add is when measuring the shims make sure you always measure them as a pack or always measure them separate, you can measure shims together and then measure them individually and have the sum come up different, and always write down your shim packs and then write down as you add or subtract. nice little piece of tech Rick.

 

[rookieshooter]

Good point Jon.
When doing an ARB the instructions say make sure the oil drain notch's are located on the bottom of the the axle housing. Some have the notch at the top.
So on this housing they are in fact on bottom, I would assume all 70s are on bottom.
If not, when the housing is pressurized things could get messy real quick.
What I may do is to mill the hole of all the casting flashing to insure better oil return. Reminds of years gone by when on my racing engines, I would smooth out the inside of the lifter valley so the oil would get back to the pan quicker instead of laying around up in the valley.

According to my Dana 70 PDF file, the pinion depth from pinion face (button) to center line of ring gear is 3.500". So using my home made depth finder and then adding the etched number that is located on the pinion face which was 2 which means .002" I'm within specs. So in fact using the existing dim. of the origianl shim packed worked out. But like I said I'll do a pattern check later.

All I did to make a depth gauge was to make sure the digital caliper was perfectly flush on bottom and perfectly 90 to machinist rule. This is the same technique I have always used on setting pinion depth including the front D44. And last time I checked there was no noise and it still works lol.

 

[rookieshooter]

I seriously doubt that anyone has ever paid as much attentions to the oil return notch as I have. But it's so important that ARB in the instructions that came with the new improved locker devotes a whole page to it. Once pressurized it can blow out the vent or mess up the solenoid. Just not taking any chances.
And besides, this is the kind of stuff I find interesting to improve an existing condition, well, at least I hope. Don't worry, I've had my share of backfires ha ha.

This was fine for when it was running a stock carrier, but for a pressurized system, I don't like it. Note how the rubber gasket over hangs the return notch impending the flow of oil back to the housing. Especially if the axle is articulated. Also I'm thinking it will keep the diff oil cooler due to the fact that the fluid will be able to circulate faster once it goes into the axle tubes which will act as a radiator/heat sink with the ambient air circulating the tube. Ok, I've over thought this.
So out it comes.l

Say Goodbye

Might as well unshroud the notch with air grinder to allow a faster and more abundant flow while gasket is out. Reminds me of back in the day of porting heads.
Now also in this pic you can see why is the gasket is there in the first place. Note the hair line air space between axle tube and the cast housing next to notch. It's obviously to keep the fluid from entering between housing and axle tubes which could seep out. I've read on other sites that people just don't know what it's for and can't find a gasket anyway. I'm thinking the gasket was done right before the tubes where pressed in...IMO Cause some really fine pieces were stuck between tube and housing which you can see just below the notch. So now to make a better Mouse Trap.

Enter what I think is one of the best products to come out since Moon Pies and RC Cola. Now to let it set up. Even took my finger and smeared some just below notch where I could see the hair line separation.
Remember, once axle is installed in truck, the notch is on the bottom.

Ok, now waiting on post man to deliver my two carrier bearings so i can make up those Mock Up bearings. The axles were shipped out yesterday from Moser. The next thing I'll order will be some DOM tubing in a week or so for the links.