Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

[rookieshooter]

Might as well start on the sunken cooler. Measure, measure and then measure some more HA HA

The backside that you can't see below the blue part is cut right up against the back support.

Then to drop in Thermos brand cooler I picked up at yard sell for 50 cents

The lid that came with it was too tall. I need to have that floor as flat as possible,so a sheet metal or wooden

hinged insulated door will be added.

Just added this pic, it's only about an inch below rear bumper.
I'll just make a simple sheet metal cradle under it for support and protection. I'll even be able to lift the cooler out also.
Why bother even making a cooler when I can get them for a song and a dance

 

[aldive]

Very, very nice addition.

 

[rookieshooter]

Thanks aldive.
May cover the plywood that's up front near the bulkhead with an indoor outdoor carpet or some automobile floor/rug material.
Thinking about laying down some plywood over that bare metal around cooler. Sink the cooler flush with metal floor and then have a flush made door that would be level with plywood. I have an extra piece of 4x4 plywood left. Cover with the same material. Then there would not be as much difference in floor heights. The peaks and valleys of the bare metal is extremely hard on the knees when you have to get to the back of this trailer/camper.
Not mentioning a more even playing field if you will when the misses is camping with me LOL.

 

[rookieshooter]

OK, I added some more plywood over that sheet metal where I cut in the cooler. Those peaks and valleys of that metal floor are rough on the old knees LOL. Hard to tell but there is a flush mounted door over the cooler. You can see the two hinges.

Now I got more of a level floor. Once I cover with some carpet it will look a whole lot better. Although bare unadorned wood is not all that bad IMO.

There's the cooler. Next was to support and protect it.

Here's how I did that. Took some 16ga. black iron that I got from my friends sheet metal shop and used his 8' brake to bend it. Made along the same lines as a gas tank shield.

I saw no reason to box in ends. Plus it's easier to get to shocks. This end is attached with screws. Just can't see them, there up too close to the floor.

This is taken looking up at the end of the shield. I just bent a flange and secured it to that crossover piece that's at the end of the frame.

Now I've got plenty of length. It's over 7' 6" long. That extended bed/table is only 28" out from bumper.
I did not want the table sticking out too far. Going to get one of those tents that fit over hatch back. Don't need a table taking up that limited space.

 

[FROADER]

So are you going to make the "trap door" into the insulated cooler lid? I see you have the outline penciled on it.

I'm really diggin' this trailer build,nice work!
My favorite part is the paper towel holder. :

 

[seafarer76]

How sturdy is the end of the table/extension? When you are crawling into the back, there could be a bit of leverage on the plywood aft of the cables....

 

[FROADER]

How sturdy is the end of the table/extension? When you are crawling into the back, there could be a bit of leverage on the plywood aft of the cables....

Did you see the page before this one?



Sturdy enough for an old man to sit on it.

 

[rookieshooter]

So are you going to make the "trap door" into the insulated cooler lid? I see you have the outline penciled on it.

I'm really diggin' this trailer build,nice work!
My favorite part is the paper towel holder. :

HA HA, the paper towel holder is my favorite part....kinda gives it a homy look

I can't get nothing over on you guys, yes that will have 1" insulation so it extends down into the cooler. Later I'll put some kind of bulkhead drain thingy in it for ease of draining water.

FROADER, when I had this vision on cutting another B2 in half and making a matching trailer, I must admit that I that I thought I'm loosing it entirely

But this thing is a riot to build. It's almost that it was designed by Ford for this to happen. It all just fell into place.
You could only imagine what I thought after paying $250 for this thing and literally cutting it in half. Then I realized, now I've got no other options but to get R done.

 

[rookieshooter]

Painted the table/bed extender Ford Blue.
Next was to do the underside of the trap door over cooler. The trap door acts as the lid itself. Needed to make a seal for the underside.

The bubble gasket is actually the gasket off of the back hatch of a B2 that I had in my parts bin. Just made a simple sheet metal frame and slipped the gasket over it. Might as well keep everything period correct . Especially after going to Auto Zone where they had some generic bubble gasket for $15 that was 8 feet long. And was made in China :thumbdwn:

Also added a piece of 1/2" insulation.

 

[FROADER]

Sweet!!

 

[Burns]

Ah man this build keeps getting better.

I would love to have a explorer half for mine.....

 

[rookieshooter]

thanks guys.

Found these cracks in my main metering block. Gave me a fit to diagnose the problem due to the fact that they would close up after engine cooled down. It would run fine and then as soon as it warmed up, it would act as if it was running out of gas.
I took the pic right after taking off hot engine. A few minutes later the cracks all but disappeared.
Maybe I over torqued the 4 bolts too much? Or it could be a factory defect. At any rate, going to try a Billet aluminum one from Jeggs.

In the pic above I did change jets a few times due to a higher altitude that I live in. Holley comes jetted for sea level. It ran too rich until I went down 2 sizes. Also changed the power valve that you can also see. Needed one for my lighter truck. Now the secondaries open quicker.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/67166C/10002/-1

 

[410Fortune]

dang glad you found those cracks! what a PITA it is to diagnose problems like that
trailer = build another and Ill take it! LOL

 

[Turdle]

thanks guys.

Found these cracks in my main metering block. Gave me a fit to diagnose the problem due to the fact that they would close up after engine cooled down. It would run fine and then as soon as it warmed up, it would act as if it was running out of gas.
I took the pic right after taking off hot engine. A few minutes later the cracks all but disappeared.
Maybe I over torqued the 4 bolts too much? Or it could be a factory defect. At any rate, going to try a Billet aluminum one from Jeggs.

In the pic above I did change jets a few times due to a higher altitude that I live in. Holley comes jetted for sea level. It ran too rich until I went down 2 sizes. Also changed the power valve that you can also see. Needed one for my lighter truck. Now the secondaries open quicker.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/67166C/10002/-1

You had earlier issues with little pellets in the carb , yes?
About a year ago?

I wonder if those pellets were jb weld from trying to fix the cracks?

I know--stupid assumption.

I'm enjoying this build also-it is a fun one-

 

[rookieshooter]

You had earlier issues with little pellets in the carb , yes?
About a year ago?

I wonder if those pellets were jb weld from trying to fix the cracks?

I know--stupid assumption.

I'm enjoying this build also-it is a fun one-

The carb was brand new from Holley, and yes I did have issues with some crap in the carb, even contacted Holley. They said if was from the gas I was using HA HA. I think it was, and still is a casting defect.
Holley even acknowledged that they did have some casting problems with a certain batch of carbs but not mine, ya right.
These billet made ones even acknowledge that they eliminate, as they call it, Porosity problems that arise from casting problems.

Thanks for your words.

 

[Turdle]

In the older picture which shows the residue--I think I see cracks starting

I wonder if the time stamp on the post would help you get some satisfaction from Holley?

notice how the residue is built up in lines which correspond to the cracks?

 

[rookieshooter]

In the older picture which shows the residue--I think I see cracks starting

I wonder if the time stamp on the post would help you get some satisfaction from Holley?

notice how the residue is built up in lines which correspond to the cracks?

Good piece of detective work jt. I think I still have their email address. I think I should resend this and the later pic along with receipt of billet metering block. Could send link of this site to this thread?

Just added: There is a definite pattern there, not just random covering.

 

[rookieshooter]

Bingo, your right. I got out my magnifiny glass and yes there are cracks where the residue is. Going to contact Holley again. I even tell them about this site. I've used Holley for many years and I'm sure they will work out something.

 

[Turdle]

Bingo, your right. I got out my magnifiny glass and yes there are cracks where the residue is. Going to contact Holley again. I even tell them about this site. I've used Holley for many years and I'm sure they will work out something.

Hey--
see if you can get me a decal for my oven--

 

[rookieshooter]

Hey--
see if you can get me a decal for my oven--

In fact I think I have some. I'll send you some along with some other go fast ones.

Update Just contacted Holley and I explained whats going on and how it's been on going for some time.
I explained about how it's posted on this forum and he can see for himself. The representitive was named Rick also and that he will send one out today no charge.

I told him that I appreciated it greatly.
It never hurts to document your build this way. In fact I go back thru it several times refreshing some aspect of the build.
But I must admitt, I owe you one for this one HA HA