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Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2


rookieshooter

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84 BII "Li'l Samson"
I've got the diff cover and guard on the axle housing but really need to clean that axle up and paint black.
Also I'm going to trash all the emergency cable and brake lines that run along the axle.
I thinking of a new way to install the parking brake. I've noticed when I manually move the trailer sometimes those drum brakes that I use for a parking brake do not release all the way.
I would have never noticed this while towing it. I have already removed the drums and all associated springs, shoes and all the other brake parts. All you see is the axle end now.
Talk about a free spinning tire. This should really help in the towing dept not mentioning better gas mileage.
 
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rookieshooter

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IMG_0072.jpg



IMG_0075.jpg


There's a before and after pic of the axle. After spraying engine degreaser on axle and let set for about 30 min. I used my pressure washer with a 15 degree nozzle and holy cow, took some of the old paint down to bare metal.
Then I use a Walmart brand Satin Black that says you can paint over bare metal and guaranteed for 2 years, ya right. Well see.

The blue and red looks really good with the back of the trailer. if I could have gotten a shot of the back of the trailer and diff cover together. But the axle was too dark to see, so only a shot of the axle.

For someone who has not been following the build, that metal you see hanging down holds my recessed cooler in place. This took the place of the gas tank.
 


410Fortune

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I think yours shocks need new eyelet bushings!!
 


rookieshooter

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I think yours shocks need new eyelet bushings!!
Good eye as usual. But here's the rest of the story. It's actually really tight.
I, that being me when I welded that shock adapter,bolt or whatever you call it in the hole. The thing started to point North, well to make a long story even longer I did not notice it with the welding helmet on and my head somewhere between the axle and leaf spring. And welded in like that:(
To put that shock on I inserted that end first and then yanked down to the other attaching point stretching the rubber. You can bounce it all around and there's no moving of that eye. You can see that the thing is pointing up if you look close enough or tilt your screen a little. One day I may grind it out and do it right.
 
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rookieshooter

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IMG_0078.jpg


OK 410, it was either cut the grass or straighten out the shock tab. I know that it must have bothered you immensely last night while you were trying desperately to sleep and having sweet dreams of your build. :cool:



So I took a screw jack and pushed the end of the bolt down a little.


IMG_0079.jpg


Close enough. done.
I know... why is that tail pipe hanger still there? I dunno.

IMG_0080.jpg


Nothing worse then unsprung weight, especially on a trailer :D
It was a considerable amount of weight counting the two brake drums, wheel cylinders and all that associated junk. If for some reason I remove axles...off comes those backing plates.
 


rookieshooter

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IMG_0082.jpg


There is just something so unnecessary about that part of the frame.
It sticks out like a sore thumb when your looking at the side. I'm speaking of the truck, not the trailer.


IMG_0085.jpg


Now that is so sanitary looking. The far left hand corner bolt hole that you see was the top upper spring hanger rivet hole. I had to drill rivet out. The rest you can not see because I grounded them flush.
Why have that spring hanger when this truck will never see leafs again. And the tail pipe hanger is no longer needed also.
 
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rookieshooter

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I'm still looking for a Dana 44 SAS. That is one reason there is no locker in the front. If I put a locker in, it will be in a solid axle. I'm not having the wheels fight each other as the axle droops. Not mentioning other reasons.
Let's face it. The TTB was desinged by Ford so it would appeal to Old Ladies that wanted a smoother ride and help in selling the B2.
Now there are guys who have made them work quit well. Some on this site.
But here's my problem...all my American black steel wheels including spare and the ones that will be eventually on the trailer are the smaller bolt pattern.
So with that in mind... when the front axle is changed, what can I do? Do I get an adapter from the larger bolt pattern down to the Dana 35 if they even make one. I don't want to have two different size rims. It's going to be expensive enough doing this let alone buying 7 more rims
 
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410Fortune

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SAS = $$$$$$$$$

Everything does!

The axle I want, built dana 44 with 5 on 5.5 and disc brakes, 4.56 yukon gears and ARB locker with all new everything, u joints, ball joints, brakes etc is over $2500 just to get that far......... then I have to have 37's on new 5 on 5.5 wheels and at least 5 on 5.5 axle shafts for my 8.8 along with 4.56....

The TTB is working quite well for what it is, for now... it took me 13 years to get to here, but now I have the tools and the end goal in sight... we just have to do it in phases or hit the lotto!!!

time and $$$ my friend
there are ways to eliminate the bump steer and massive camber/toe changes that occur when the beams cycle, the TTB is quite a sight to watch work on the trail.....it makes your truck more tippy!! but SAS is not exactly perfect either, IFS also has its advantages, just try to keep up with Gerrald on a trail when hes leading.... SAS guys fall behind quick :)
 


rookieshooter

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I think it would depend on what kind of trail and conditions and who's would hold up the longest, the TTB or solid LOL. I agree about the $$$.
In two years I would have all the money I need for this build and then some. It's an Insurance thing called a structured settlement. But man, do I hate waiting for anything.
Wether this idea takes off or not, it's no big deal to keep the axle I have anyway. But it's the idea of having a cool project to do.
I really think that a SAS would be the next logical mod. Capt Kirk.

I would believe they're others on this site that might think the same way. Now that's a scary thought.
 
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rookieshooter

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410 said
time and $$$ my friend
Agreed, just look how long it took me to put coilovers on all fours. And I'm sure I have more time since I'm retired. Believe me I know what it was like being a young man with a new house, new wife and kids. It's not easy keeping everyone happy when our hobbies require such vasts sums of money.
 


rookieshooter

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SAS = $$$$$$$$$

Everything does!

The axle I want, built dana 44 with 5 on 5.5 and disc brakes, 4.56 yukon gears and ARB locker with all new everything, u joints, ball joints, brakes etc is over $2500 just to get that far......... then I have to have 37's on new 5 on 5.5 wheels and at least 5 on 5.5 axle shafts for my 8.8 along with 4.56....
Could have these guys build you one. But I don't think $2500 would even come close. Their HP D60s go for well over... are you sitting down, $6000...Gulp.
http://www.solidaxle.com/pdf/front_axle_ordering.pdf

Hey, you might want to go the 60 thing with 37s and be done with it?
I don't think I'll go over 35s so a 44 will do just fine coupled with the lighter weight of my truck. IMO
 
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410Fortune

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BII is lightweight and i do my best to be a finessee wheeler (no tire spin) I run 35's at 10 psi locked on Moab slickrock on a 1993 dana 35 TTB modified with strong u joints and jeep warn hubs. I have never broken anything, I have lost my pass side axle shaft three times (wrong spring slip yoke came apart) and I seperated a U joint on the d side knuckle last time in Moab... thats it in 5 years of running 35's

I contribute this to prevenative maintenece and bringing trail spares. I know the one time i dont bring a spare u joint, hub or axleshaft something will blow up.

I have rebuilt my diff twice, replaced axle seals bi yearly, and I think I am on the 3rd set of spindles and 10th set of bearings, 3rd set of hubs, all new tie rods and ball joints, brakes, frequently... it gets abused but I am not afraid of running 35's on the D35 TTB

Heck RangerX runs 37's, much of it is driver, I am real leary of rolling over, always learning from drivers with more seat time/ tackling difficult obstacles, so I tend to take it real easy on the truck.. which sometimes can get you in trouble too! but the BII always gets us home one way or another.....if I ever get a trailer that may all change :)
 


rookieshooter

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I know what you mean about rolling over, I rolled my B2 on it's side with wife and 2 kids while driving on a snow covered road. Went a little sideways, hit a chunk of ice and over she went. No injuries thank goodness. Now this was in stock trim.
I've hit a lot worse in my Chopped top while trail riding with it's lower center of gravity and stays upright.
I take it fairly easy on my B2 also. No trailer...yet. Although I had an all aluminum one when I was doing all that drag racing long ago.
 


rookieshooter

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IMG_0086.jpg


Here is the driver side tail end of frame sans the spring perch. Now both sides are done. That heavy wire loom is covering the power side wire that goes to the remote rear Winch location. The wire used to hang over the spring perch. Right about where the wire clamp is, is where the spring perch used to be.
 
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rookieshooter

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IMG_0090-1.jpg


There is a dinky little roller bearing that slides over the inner steering column shaft that keeps slipping down and causes the steering wheel to wobble when turning. I don't notice it untill there is a strain when turning, like when turning hard on slow trails. About once a month I have to slid it back up into it's proper spot. I've heard other guys mentioning the same problem.
The shaft is right under the brake booster. If the booster looks larger then stock, it's because I upgraded to a 97 X booster and master cylinder.

IMG_0088.jpg


In fact It just happens to be that time of the month HA HA. There it is down again. It should be further up where you can not see it.

IMG_0089.jpg


In my spare parts bin for BIIs I have an extra steering assembly. This is where the bearing normally rides. I could just replace with this one, but why have the same problem later.

Now this is how I'm thinking of fixing this little PITA problem. Take a Heim joint that has the same diameter as the inner shaft which is 1". Disconnect the steering shaft and slid the bearing onto and up the shaft close to the firewall.
Then attach the male threaded part to the firewall via bracket.
This is basically the same way race cars do it.
 


rookieshooter

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OMG, I just checked the 10 day forcast, all sunshine with highs in the 80s and low of 60s. The doors are off again. I'm tellin ya, riding around with doors is like taking a shower with a rain coat.
 


Kirby N.

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I tried to get around new wheels with my sas. Nearly impossible. The hubs on the 44s are just too big. You could do a Rubicon 44 like is in my wifes jeep, but then you don't have hubs and you have Dana 30 outers/ stubs. Seem slike someone modified 44 outers to accept 5 on 4.5, but the wheels had to be machined down so far it was sketchy. Maybe Stage 8? I can't remember. I think the hubs on a 44 are like 4" round or something.

You guys should start gathering parts now. Get an axle and start rebuilding it. That is how I spread out the cost and swallowed it! I ran an open diff up front too until I could swing an arb. I have started gathering parts for my ranger now.
 


rookieshooter

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Someone on the Bronco site he heard that you swap out the outers for Dodge and then run the same bolt pattern? I don't have a clue about this one.
I might just call a custom axle fabricator and ask them about the bolt pattern thing.
 


black91EB

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I think they were talking about the fact that the full size dodges have the same lug pattern as the full size fords, which would be the large 5 lug you mentioned.
 

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C

CopyKat

78-79 Ramchargers used the small 5 on 4.5 pattern. Down side was they were hubless and had a uni-bearing setup. There was a kit that Warn produced to convert to manual hubs but they are getting hard to find and are $$$$$$$$$$$
 


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