Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

[black91EB]

I'd do it

 

[colindo94]

Snap on tools for the reamer. I saw the truck in a parking lot one afternoon and was able to buy it from the snap on guy. Im sure you can order it

 

[rookieshooter]

As per Firezappers instructions, about the Upper ball joint spanner wrench.

Collindo, I'll have my son who has an account with Snap On to check on the R-121 reamer for me.

And Black91, they will be painted as the links.

The good news today is that I ordered from Superior Axle the ring and pinion and Master install kit. But really the whole complete axle from hub to hub will be rebuilt.
I like the way the guy in the Technical dept. was so helpful even to the point when I'm doing the install off R&P to give him a call and he'll help with any questions.
So now I've really got some cool things coming in the mail...High Steer and Ring and Pinion.
Just wish I did not have to buy new rims, Oh well.
I know one thing, this linked D44 front axle thing is the most costly build other then the engine build.

 

[rookieshooter]

My son called me up and bought me the reamer I need to ream out the Pitman arm from Snap On. He has an account with them where he works. Only problem they gave him a R-120 instead of the R-121. Oh well, he's going to exchange next Friday when they come around again. Awfully nice to buy the Old man a gift

This swap now is going in high gear with the High Steer arms arriving next week along with the Ring & Pinion and Master Rebuild set.
So might as well start getting the Hubs rebuilt and cleaned of that really old grease.


Some of you guys know what this pic is. It's the inside of a Dana 44 stock hub.

I really like the way the inner and outer bearings set so much further apart then the D35 that's in the truck now.
I always had to check the bearings or even replace them so often.
The measurement from inside to inside is around 2.25", where as the D35 is only around .250" apart.

Here is the Dana 44 with new bearings next to the Dana 35. Wish I had some old 35 bearing to place on the spindle to really show how close they are.
A few posts back you can see how I installed the spindle kit from NAPA. So along with seals, there is a total of 3 new bearings on that spindle.

The old bearing are surprisingly in good shape. That's old grease on the roller bearings, not scrathes.
They're Timkin bearings.

Going to keep the bearings, races and grease seal...you never know.
I'll use a bearing puller to pull out races so as not to damage them.
The extension with the socket on it is what I used to knock out the inner bearing along with the grease seal that sets in front of bearing.

 

[rookieshooter]

Driving home the bearing race in the first hub that I took off. This tool is a loaner from Auto Zone. I was lucky, it still had the wrapping on it, so I knew it had all the goodies.

As you can see, it is tool #27119 and I'm using the 2.830" cup. The other side is beveled the same contour as the race. The other bearing was a different size. $60 deposit and If I decided not to bring it back, it's mine for $60, but I did take it back

Now for the fun part of trying to take off the other spindle. When doing this I take a couple aspirins before and after it's done, It's just that fun

Before I even start banging away I mix up some more of my Eel snot consisting of one part tranny fluid with one part Acetone. Then brush all around the front and even in the back where you can see the backside of the spindle protruding through knuckle. Then let set a couple hours, then it's not so bad.

I'll use one BFH, one modified brick chisel. The chisel came with two beveled edges, but what I do is to grind one side flat and leave the bevel on the other side. I also have a screw driver and last item is a 1/2" round steel punch that I slightly ground down to about 3/8" at one end.

I start with hitting the living crap out of the chisel with the flat side toward the knuckle and beveled side against spindle flange. I'll hit this 90 degrees around the spindle using just the corner of the chisel at first.
Don't worry, it does hurt when you miss the chisel and knock the snot out of your hand. But it feels much better when the pain stops Hey, might just have to put that in the Explorer Quotes.

Now here is the killer part that turns the tide. I take the round steel bar and put the side that I grounded down to fit the backside of spindle without hitting the oil slinger or knuckle,
In this pic you can see it's just starting to move by the shadow.
Now if you go back to the first pic you can see a thin screw driver inserted on left side. This is where I was able to get an air space just big enough to slip the thin blade of the screwdriver in. Then I move the chisel to other side and bang away. Just keep repeating the process and it's off.
One other thing, you'll probably notice a different ringing sound as you smack away. This is a dead give away that it starting to move ever so slightly.
It's not as bad as some people make it out to be, It's just knowing where and how to hit.
Others have even used a gear puller, but that's no fun.

And here it is less the dust shield that got scraped.
Now I'll clean all the mating surfaces and then coat with anti seize. Then next time...no problem.

I'll also run a 1/2" x18 or 20 die over those studs. It was a pain getting the nuts off.

 

[FireZapper]

I hit the caliper mount front and back top and bottom. After I had some space between the caliper bracket and the knuckle I used a chisel.

 

[rookieshooter]

Now here is what it looked like the moment it came out after beating the crap out of it.
Believe me, there will be NO more days like that.

After cleaning old fluids off of spindle, I took a flat file and held it perfectly flat to the flange. There were some high spots that needed taken down.

Then a lot of elbow grease using a 3M Scotch Brite pad. I made sure where the seal fits inside the recessed area that it was very clean. Why put a new seal just to have oppisite side of seal get worn away by crud. The seal I'm talking about is the one the is on the end of the axle next to the oil slinger.

Then the caliper mounting bracket got it's share of the work out, including the much needed inside area where the spindle slipped into.

Then the spindle was slipped into the caliper bracket where it fitted as snug as a bug in a rug.

Next area to be addressed was the knuckle itself. Here it is before I cleaned and gave it a light honing with the Scotch Brite pad.

Then the most important part of all...the anti seize compound on all touching surfaces.
What a difference now.
I'm kinda glad that my ring and pinion and high steer arms are not here yet.
I might have avoided doing this and would have payed for it later, had I needed to take the spindle off in the field.
I might do a little trick to the spindle tomorrow, depends on how motivated I am

You think a call to NAPA might also be good?

 

[Turdle]

Probably. That looks ugly to say the least.

Thanks for putting up the pictures and tips for disassembly

 

[rookieshooter]

Not a problem Turdle, I need them for future references also.
I just can't remember all the mods I've done on this truck.

I just can't leave well enough alone The problem is I just don't think it is well enough...yet? Why would anybody drill a hole in a perfectly good spindle

Waiting on some more parts before this mod is complete, any guesses?

 

[black91EB]

Not a problem Turdle, I need them for future references also.
I just can't remember all the mods I've done on this truck.

I just can't leave well enough alone The problem is I just don't think it is well enough...yet? Why would anybody drill a hole in a perfectly good spindle

Waiting on some more parts before this mod is complete, any guesses?

Maybe a threaded hole, so that you can use a bolt to force the spindle loose? That's what first came to mind. Then Maybe something like this: Waterproofing a dana 44 hub, but the hole is in the wrong part.

 

[rookieshooter]

Bingo

 

[black91EB]

shouldn't have edited, I looked smarter. What size bolt are you going to thread it for?

 

[rookieshooter]

Now all you have to do is to apply some rotating torque via 1/4" allen to the socket which puts a tremendous amount of linear pressure forcing the spindle out.
No hammering at all


]

 

[rookieshooter]

Have to lay-out the holes for the passenger side High Steer. The lay-out will be a mirror copy of driver side. And then I'll take the pass. side to a machine shop and have them drilled and tap it..
I also have some ideas about beefing up that side of the knuckle. The fact of the matter is that there is actually more metal underneath the pass. side then what is on the factory flat top on the driver side.

Well I really got some cool stuff now to work with.

But the prepping and cleaning still has to be done yet. This is the other knuckle that I'm cleaning those 7/16 x 20 TPI studs and later will hone out the inside diameter of the knuckle where the spindle will slip into.
I also will drill and tap the spindle for the Pusher Bolts like I did the other side.
One theme of this whole entire truck build was for ease of maintenance whether I had to discard half the sheet metal or not for easy access

 

[FireZapper]

You will need to have the passenger side machined a little to make it perfectly flat. Then they can drill and tap the holes.

 

[rookieshooter]

You will need to have the passenger side machined a little to make it perfectly flat. Then they can drill and tap the holes.

Yes sir, I did that months ago, just can't see it in photo.

 

[rookieshooter]

After breaking my 2 jaw bearing puller trying to pull the carrier bearings, I tried the Neanderthal approach...cut them off with my Dremel tool. Much more fun also.
First the race cage was cut. Then spread cage and remove bearings. Kept bearings for Wrist Rocket sling shot.

Next was to cut into the race. Now this is not for the faint hearted. You really need to pay attention to depth of your cut. Especially since the race grows larger at one end.
I came about a Frog hair from cutting into the shaft. Then the next thing is to take a cold chisel and smack the cut. This will open up the cut a little. Then I put chisel at an angle and gave another smack and the bearing race turned around. Then just start working the race up the shaft.
Well at least that's how I did it.
Next will be to get two new carrier bearings and hone them out for mock-up bearings. This way I don't need to keep pressing the new ones that I will permanently use. Then I'll just mark the honed out ones as mock-up for future installs.
Do not attempt this without safety glasses. When I smacked on the race with the chisel a piece came off and hit me hard right under my glasses.

 

[rookieshooter]

Here is the inner axle seal that is near carrier end of tube. They sell a fancy tool to remove and install this thing. Some cost $60 or more.
But pictured with it are the tools that I used.

To knock it out I used a 33mm socket coupled to a long extension. The socket was just large enough to fit inside the tubing. Some tubes may be larger at this end due to thinner wall thickness. These tubes are .500" thick.

Here is the inner seal in it's stock position. Looking thru the rubber ring that fits around the axle you can see inside the socket which is ready to knock it out.. I'll also use this pic for a refrence as how far the seal sits inside.
On te other end of the seal is a steel shaped inverted cone that helps guide the axle thru the seal. The socket fits over the cone.

Now here in my psuedo seal installer thanks to Timken race. I needed to find something that fit precisly inside the seal as not to damage it.
Answer...It was lying next to it all along. The smalll end of the carrier bearing race fits perfect.
Next I just welded a plate on big end and then welded a socket in the center.
The socket is then just hit gently with a hammer.
Works like a charm. Now I have a Dana 44 specific inner seal installer. That's why I just keep so many things instead of throwing them away

Here's the seal fitting snugly around the race/seal installer. There is a small rim on the inside that the race sits against.
I guess if one wanted to you could attach a long extension that runs through the tube, out other side and then bang on that.

 

[rookieshooter]

Oops, double posted

 

[Kirby N.]

I made my seal driver out of some PVC fittings. It only took me doing it 3 or 4 with a hammer inside of the pumkin before I decided to do it right. My inner axle seals don't leak anymore either... imagine that! I have my pvc tool in my tool box. I wrote on it with a sharpy so I don't throw it away.