Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

[410Fortune]

Why not take the air from inside the cab?

 

[rookieshooter]

Why not take the air from inside the cab?

Belive it or not, that has crossed my mind. I have'nt really looked at a way to get it high enough off floor board and thru firewall. Of course the integrity of the firewall to hold back fire would have to be addressed. Not mentioning the carb might just backfire sometimes. Worth checking into.

 

[Creager]

underneith firewall?

do you plan on keeping AC/Heat? You could use that hole (5" diameter i believe) where the blower motor goes.

 

[seafarer76]

Then again, if it is in the cab, you have to listen to the intake noise, which can be considerable depending on your intake setup. IMHO, the only time having the intake in the cab is warranted is when the truck is a dedicated mud truck. Just my $.02.

 

[rookieshooter]

You guys brought up some good points. I'll keep those in mind once I start on that snorkel.

Moving upward on the body work and painting. Now working on roof. Removed roof cage and just setting on rear bed rail. Fenders are done. I'm not filling in every little ding since it will have its share later.

I have diconnects on the cage wiring. May remake them and have them closer to roof line. I'll post more pics later. Should have roof done. Maybe tailgate and hood.

That sander on grinder is made by 3M. It has a backup rubber adapter and then the discs screw on to that. It's called a sandblaster really works well for DIYs. It come in a 3 pack disck. One pack for really rough and shaping metal and another for stripping paint and finishing metal to a really smooth texture. I bought this one at Auto zone, but I thing Advanced auto has them also. 7/8" grinder

 

[410Fortune]

So now wait a second the BII is rattle can black now? What happened to fire engine red?

 

[mynameisaric]

so does that paint look as good close up as it does in the pictures? my paint is almost at the stage where even when its clean and waxed, it still looks really bad with all the pinstriping it has.

 

[rookieshooter]

So now wait a second the BII is rattle can black now? What happened to fire engine red?

90% sure it's going to be red. While I'm feathering in all the different paint and some bondo that has been on it for several years I'm painting it black. This way I can really see where i have to sand more areas to get it smooth after it dries. My thinking is if it looks good in black, especially when I look down the side then all I have to do is hit it with 1000 or 1500 grit and then the red. Plus I've looked at that lousy paint for so long its a little refreshing to see it one color. Even it it is or not the final color.

 

[rookieshooter]

so does that paint look as good close up as it does in the pictures? my paint is almost at the stage where even when its clean and waxed, it still looks really bad with all the pinstriping it has.

Yes, in fact it looks better. This John Deere black is not a primer but a paint. It has UV protection and has more waterproofing (lack of better discription) then most flat or satin black.

 

[rookieshooter]

This is looking down at driver side fender

Same area after the window cowl is painted. Notice that shiny spot. If you look at the first pic you can see where the paint is off. The problem is that I missed that spot when I washed off the front fender with soap and water to remove all residue of the stripper. Some if it got onto that cowl. You need to get all that stripper off even if it does look clean or it will bleed thru and the paint will not dry.

So now had to sand that spot off, wipe down with acetone and repaint. This is another reason I like to paint the whole truck before the final red coat. Not only can I see places that need to be sanded or touched up but also any areas where that stripper had not been cleanded off. All of the roof and rear and front pillars I sanded and did not use any stripper.

This is the rear pillar where I cut off the top. The original paint was in good shape here so I just used 1000 grit and rattled caned it. I also wiped down that door gasket with acetone and just use the same paint to give it a new look. I was suprised to see how well it made it look. I was able to bend and squeez it with out cracking. Only time will tell if this mod works on the gasket.

A little more done.

 

[mynameisaric]

you sure you don't want to leave it that color? it looks pretty good. i know what i'm going to do to my truck when the paint gets even worse. its kinda of gloss, but yet still flat black. i like it.

 

[rookieshooter]

you sure you don't want to leave it that color? it looks pretty good. i know what i'm going to do to my truck when the paint gets even worse. its kinda of gloss, but yet still flat black. i like it.

So far around my house and even on another site people are saying leave it black. It really is a nice looking satin black. The hot rod guys use this on some their cars. I posted several places back that Jessie James on Monster Garage painted his old hot rod this color. It sure would be a piece of cake to touch up. Hell, all I'd have to do is to buy a case of this spray paint. The John Deere dealer here said he'll be glad to order a case.

Maybe I ought to buy a gallon and have it painted right with a spray gun.

 

[LBarr2002]

I'm sure its lost somewhere in this thread, but I tried searching and didn't find it, and I don't have time to read 39 pages...but how much is that paint a can? And can you get it in gallons?

 

[Creager]

just slap a dulling agent in the clear coat and clear coat on top of that.

 

[rookieshooter]

I'm sure its lost somewhere in this thread, but I tried searching and didn't find it, and I don't have time to read 39 pages...but how much is that paint a can? And can you get it in gallons?

$7.00/spray can and yes I can get a gallon. I got it from a John Deere dealer. Blitz Black

 

[rookieshooter]

just slap a dulling agent in the clear coat and clear coat on top of that.

I was wondering about that. Because any dust sure sticks to it. Maybe that would help and also give it some more luster.

 

[rookieshooter]

Maybe I should have my friend Jack who was going to spray paint it red for me anyway. Shoot it over with the black with his professional spay gun with the right amount of thinner and hardner. And then do as you say with the clear?

 

[Con Seann3ry]

I also like it that black color vs. red body, I think it makes it look meaner, it also sets off a bunch of your suspension components nicely; makes them stand out a little. Ultimately it's whatever you prefer of course but I thought I'd just throw my 02 cents out there.

 

[Creager]

Your painting buddy probably knows what the name of that chemical is. You add it in with the clear coat, and it eliminates the shine element of the clear coat. So it will have the protect ant properties of the isocyanides, but the color will be flat.

That color black might look good shined up, haha; I don’t mean to straddle the fence... If I were to see examples of both the flat and the shinny color black, I could make up my mind easier.

Have you considered enamel? From my understanding, enamel doesn’t shine as much, but it takes more abuse. I might be wrong on this though.

 

[rookieshooter]

Here are some Quotes that I pulled off a Hot Rod site about the JD Blitz black if any ones interested.



John Deere Blitz Black (Quote)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Blitz Black TY6416 $23.00 +or-$
Primer TY6457 $24
Reducer PT158 $14

The prices are for gallons. The reducer is in quarts. They also make Blitz Black in spray cans. Just dont go to a regular paint shop for the stuff. JDBB is about $100 a gallon. So go to a JD dealer. Prices are + or - $$ but still stupid cheap.

On another note JDBB was put in a weather room and beat up by freezing, heat, acid rain and other harsh crap. It held up equal and better than most all of the top super expensive paints.

Cool....

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote:
Originally posted by harrington
I really need to see this Blitz Black stuff.... I've been contemplating painting my car that color.....just dont know ..... my paint shop said i was an idiot... and that it would go all chalky/white...... It's severly confused me.... this Blitz Black sounds like what i was looking for..... is this some Old school hot rod secret....... or did someone just think of doing this..... Because i was going to go the rout of buying flattened Clear....I was worried about durability......

i really didn't want to invest that much money into it, because if i decide i dont like the satin black look...I might repaint it, and don't want to lose all that Moola.....


anyone else heard about this "Chalky" effect? i live in canada and might drive this car in the winter......maybe.... i'm undicided.....depends if i can find a winter beater.



Ive got JD tractors around here that are 30+ years old with it painted on the cabs, no chalky effect. It is very durable they paint the bottom part of the cab with this, the part thats next to the wheels so its where the mud is being thrown onto, mud and crap (literally) and after many years of abuse, hardly a scratch in it. Ill try and get some pics of a tractor cab if its clean enough (lots of mud here this time of year).
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by motoedge
!!!!!!! IMPORTANT !!!!!!!
John Deere Blitz Black cureing windows.

Shooting to a good surface IE: Bare metal, John Deere Primer, or to a good base of existing paint scuffed up.

1 light tack coat and wait no longer than 15 minutes to shoot the full wet coat.
For a second coat which is NOT needed but why the hell not.
Wait up to but NO longer than 3 hours to apply second coat.
But if you go past 3 hours DO NOT shoot another coat because the paint will react and go to $#!T. Wait 36 hours until you shoot the next coat. For each coat the same times apply. But one good coat with the 8 to 1 to 1 (8-1-1 paint-thinner-hardener) will be more than enough.

Cool.....

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Re: John Deere Blitz Black

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally posted by motoedge
Below is the most exact information I have found for you guys doing the flat/satin black.

From: Valspar Paint General Manager. (They make Blitz Black for John Deere.)

#1. If the existing paint is relatively good condition (ie. no peeling paint, no large amount of rust, etc) no primer is needed. Scuff sand the existing paint with extra fine grit sandpaper, wipe surface with a clean cloth and then apply John Deere Blitz Black.

#2. If primer is used due to bare metal or minor surface defects, we suggest the John Deere Buff Primer (available in aerosols, quarts and gallons). This is a very "user friendly" formulation that provides good sandability, excellent filling/sealing properties and enhanced corrosion resistance.

#3. A reducer is needed for optimum sprayability and appearance. We suggest the use of the John Deere thinner/reducer (available in quarts gallon and fives). It is formulated specifically for John Deere paints. The mix ratio is 8 parts John Deere paint : 1 part John Deere thinner.

#4. John Deere Blitz Black is an "air dry" formulation...but if a you want the paint to dry faster and harder, John Deere has a hardener in their product line. It is available in pints, part number REN3001. The mix ratio is 8 parts John Deere paint : 1 part REN3001 hardener : 1 part John Deere thinner.

Some more info...the exact same formulation is used in the aerosols as in the quarts/gallons. This helps with touch-ups and is critical in low gloss applications such as the Blitz Black.