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Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

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Here's why I describe it as a Trailer/Camper...One day a micro camper the next a utility trailer.
I just removed the bed/table extender out and layed down a thick carpet to protect the floor.

I've got a question for you guys. In the pic is an 8.8 rear less less center section and a Chrysler engine that I helped pull and install a new motor in a van. That's the old engine on the engine crane being pushed into the trailer. I filled the trailer up with more metal junk and it came to a total of 600+- pounds.

I only got $5 per 100 #. This is a huge drop from a few months ago.
Question: Has anyone took metal to a salvage yard lately and if so, is the price I got about the same? Now this was all steel junk.
 



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Thanks, so it has come down substantially. Thought it might just be a geographical thing.
I know just several months back I got $40 per aluminum rim. Now they offer only $5 per rim.
 






yes. last summer i saw it as high as 280 a ton, and a few months ago it was as low as 40 a ton. Depending on which time frame you take, it has dropped substantially over about a year, or it has risen substantially in recent months.
 






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I just can not stop grinding on this thing :), there's just something about taking off crap that you don't need. Like this upper shock mount on the rear pass. side. Why have unnecessary sprung weight?
I'm grinding off the rivets to rid the frame of this un-needed part. You can see the upper part of it protruding above the frame between the two upper grinded off rivets.

But wait there's more.

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Cleaning up.

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And here is the Why of it all. The little trailer has some sideway rocking when weighted down.
Now I know there are trailer kits that one can buy to put on the tongue.
But I think it's a shock thing. When rocking the trailer while standing still, I can see the shocks rebounding. The stock shock locations due to various reason are not at the best angle to optimize the dynamics of the shock. Once a shock goes past 80 degrees from vertical, it's capabilities to perform at peak output go down dramatically. And the B2s shocks well past that mark.
So my idea is to add some more shocks. Which I have couple of Ranchos laying around.

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Here is where I hopefully will be able to attach to the frame. This is on the driver side of trailer and in front of the shock that you can see in the bottom left of pic which is behind axle. The angle is the best I can get, which is about the same as the one in the back of the axle.
Then I check out some fab shops and see if they have any axles mounted shock tabs. I'm just so tired of making them myself.
 






Try diy4x.com or ord.com.
 












Thanks for those links. I added the diy4x site to my list of suppliers, never knew they were around.

I've dealt with Ballistic before and they had he right piece I was looking for...a long shock tab that would fit a 3" tube that was laser cut.
Not that it had to be laser cut, mind you.
The other side will be a little more tricky.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/HD-Long-shock-tabs_p_1599.html

Could you only imagine what it would have cost to buy a shock tap like the one I ground off the chopped top B2. Hey, it was just there for the taking. It took about 10 min. to grind off.
If someone has an extra B2 laying around, they might want to think about removing it for a future projects. Makes for a super strong frame mounted shock tab.
 






I'm getting off my apathy, and making it myself this morning. It's amazing what a few hours of sleep and a good cup of coffee can acomplish :D

The bracket for the lower shock mount is about done. Used some flat metal and one Ballistic modified cage tab that I had laying around. The top shock mount I did earlier this morning. Just had to drill some holes in frame.

I'll post up some pics after I go to therapy this morning for a bad left shoulder.
 






I gave you the wrong link for ORD. They are at http://www.offroaddesign.com. They have a lot of good stuff too. Kert at Diy4x is also pretty good at custom fab, if you give him a call, he will try to work with you on what you need.
 






Thanks seafarer, for that update.
As it turned out, the way I had to install the bottom shock tab I had to make it myself anyway.

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A lot easier to work on it belly up.

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Here is an old Ballistic tab that I had left over. I'm welding it on a 4" flat plate.

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Then I welded another tab that I made on the right side of shock. The end of the 4" plate is then welded to the back of the existing shock tab that the rear pointing shock is bolted to. Also you can't see but the top of the 4" plate is welded to the axle tube.

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Now there is two shocks on this side. You can just make out the shaft of the rear shock.

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Now a total of 3 shocks. The one on the left is in the stock position. That side will need a rear mounted shock.

So all that was left was to let down and roll the body. When I did the side that only has one shock it did 3 + rebounds. The side with two shocks did only did 2 rebounds. So my next project will be to add another left hand shock.
 






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Going to install the fourth shock. This is going to be a breeze compared to the other side. In my assortment of nuts, bolts and other fasteners I came across this shock mounting adapter.

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Even found an existing hole in the frame. Now this one is going to be an outboard mounted shock. Got lucky on this one. The outboard shock will really control the leaning and rebounding.

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Made another lower shock mount like the first one that I did. It's mounted on the existing bottom shock bracket, but off to the side.

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there you go, with all four Rancho shocks. Now how many B2 trailers do you see with four shocks including one thats outboard? :rolleyes:
 






how many b2 trailers do ya see period? lol but geez i swear i belive iv seen this trailer somewhere else :D
 












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Need to know how much of fender well to cut out when 33s are on. There is a good pic of that outboard shock.

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I've got admitt, it sure makes that trailer look trail ready. Now I don't want to put the other tire back on. This 33 is my spare. And after installing I don't think I'll have to cut any metal.
I also needed to know how much I needed to drop the hitch to make level... 3" will work.

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May put on these original B2 mud flaps.
 






that is awesome!













now go for 37's!! LOL KIdding!!!
 






Thanks 410, can't wait untill you get going on yours again.

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Just had to put these on the trailer. They were on one of the donor B2s I used on my build. Could not bring myself to throw them away.
Now I at least have something on one of the builds that say Bronco II. Then I might stop getting asked...what is it or better put, what was it?

Nice diff cover would go good I think.
 






Don't waste money on a diff cover, paint the one you have with the same design as the trailer, racing stripes and all......
 






Don't waste money on a diff cover, paint the one you have with the same design as the trailer, racing stripes and all......

Now that's an original idea, I like your way of thinking :thumbsup:

Even to the point of making a diff guard with matching colors. I have some steel stock laying around that needs to be made into something instead of leaning in the corner :cool:
 



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I like the idea of a matching diff cover and diff guard. I have some 1/2" solid rod and might as well use it up. Thought it would make a nice diff guard. Now I won't have worry so much about backing this thing up on the rock infested trails.
Here's my bender, a propane torch. Bending the rod to the angle of the diff housing.

That is a 1.5" piece of pipe below that I use on the end to bend the rod.

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I had some 1" x 3/16" flat stock that I cut into tabs and welded the rod to.
Then a 3/8" hole was drilled at end to fasten to diff cover.


Used chemicals and wire brush to clean a really dirty cover.


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Starting to take shape.

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Now ain't that purdy. Matches the truck and trailer. After it dries then it will be bolted to rear.
I'll post a before and after pic.
 






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