Ring and pinion gears

[nak4af]

I just called Randy's Ring & Pinion about ordering some 4.56 gears for my X. Jason said that with a 4.56 gears I would have to get a 7/8" cross pin so it would clear the ring gear.

Has anyone heard of this? Is this ligit? I checked localy at two shops yesterday and they never mentioned it at all! I just wanted to see if any of you guys or gals knew.

Thanks for your time!

 

[Jason_25]

Your explorer already has a 7/8" cross pin. 31 Spline 8.8's all have them.

 

[nak4af]

Thank's Jason_25

I have the rear factory L/S, so your saying that the cross pin isn't needed?

That would save me around $30.00.

 

[Jason_25]

Correct. Although I have heard that the cross-pin may need to be grinded down to clear the ring gear on gear ratios of 4.56 and up.

 

[nak4af]

That's what Jason at Randys Ring & Pinion said. That the cross pin was made to clear the bigger ring gear.

So, I could modify mine without interfering with the integral strength of the cross pin?

 

[Robert]

I've got my 4.56s on order from Deser Rat. The guy at Desert Rat also mentioned that they might have to mofiy my cross pin (some need it, some don't). He didn't bother ordering the modified one since they have plenty of experience modifying them when they need to. If the shop that is putting your gears in knows what they are doing, they should be able to modify yours. Worst case, when they start putting things back together they'll call you up and tell you it'll be another $30 and a few more days before they finish (unless they keep the modified crosspin in stock,not likley).

 

[nak4af]

Thanks Robert

I will be installing them myself, just needed to know if modifying the pin myself would be an option. I know of several machine shops in the area that could do it also. That way I wouldn't mess up the integrity of the pin!

Thanks for the education guys!

 

[AlaskanJack]

Re: Thanks Robert

Originally posted by nak4af
I will be installing them myself, just needed to know if modifying the pin myself would be an option. I know of several machine shops in the area that could do it also. That way I wouldn't mess up the integrity of the pin!

Thanks for the education guys!

Need any extra hands, I would love to assist or just watch during this process. I can even bring my giant rolling tool box!! Never know when I may need to change gears so I am interested in this.

Let me know.

 

[nak4af]

YEAH MAN!

I'll be doing it over at Ft Rich. One of the guys at the Hobby shop has his own dial for setting up the gears. When they come in I'll let you know. I'm trying to get a locker through AussieLocker for the rear axle. I'm not sure if they have it for the factory L/S or not.

Stay tuned...

 

[AlaskanJack]

yOUR DOING THE FRONT AND REAR RIGHT? Sorry bout the caps.

 

[nak4af]

Right now I will do the rear only due to the price of the front gears. WOW! I will be getting a bonus on July 9th so then I will finish the front. I also want to be able to install a locker and the gears at the same time due to the pain in the @$$ it is to remove the front diff.

I was going to remove the front driveshaft just in case of any accidental 4x4 engagement!

 

[AlaskanJack]

I was going to remove the front driveshaft just in case of any accidental 4x4 engagement!

Smart move I never even considered doing that!! I will be dropping my whole front suspension in a few weeks to change radius arms, install new RA bushings, fresh powder coated coils (possibly F150 Spacers I have if I need the extra height), new axle pivot bushings and I think while I'm at it I will tackle replacing the front diff seal.

I've got a little leak from using the front diff as a jack point. I know, I know but it was truely the only place I could get a good lift from and still be able to get my jackstands under the axles. Boy this would be a perfect time to make any changes to the front diff!

 

[nak4af]

I'm really hoping that I can get the lift done at the same time as the front gears, since it'll be all apart anyways. I'll just have to see how funds go.

I went to Custom powder coating this weekend. I can get my front tow hooks and rear receiver tow shackel coated for $50.00. Not a bad price! Your parts shouldn't be too much different.

 

[Diff Whack Daddy]

I also read a while ago in one of the 4wd mags that instead of modifying the pin, you can also trim a little bit off one of the ring gear teeth. Since the outer top edge of the tooth doesn't really have much torque or pressure on it like deeper in to the tooth, they recommended that vice modifying the cross pin which always bears a load.

 

[nak4af]

Thanks DWD! I always like to know all possible options.

 

[AlaskanJack]

What are you planning on for a lift? I may end up with a set of 2" lift Skyjacker coils and a spare set of 5.5" lift coils. I bought a set of Ricks old lift coils and found out that my old coils were the ranger coils and they settled too much. So Superlift is warrantying them once I get them shipped off. But I just dropped off Ricks old coils to get powder coated red so I will stick with them I think.

I also picked up a set of warrior shackles and F150 buckets and my intention is to use either the buckets or 2" lift coils on my Daily driver once I get it back from shop. But who knows what I will do. Maybe SOA in rear and 5.5" coils in front with cut and turned beams. Now that would be adventurous for me.

 

[nak4af]

Not sure what lift I'll do! Deffinatly a SOA in the rear with the overload removed for 5" of lift. Thinking a Black Diamond 4" in the front with the F-150 spacers to even it out. I'm kinda worried about only having 4" in the front, in the case I ever get a winch, I don't want the front to sag and be uneven. I may look into the Skyjacker 6" front lift. I've heard too many problems with the Superlift to get it. I will eventually get the Skyjacker extended radius arms for more travel.

I'm also worried about removing the rear overload spring also. I still plan on towing stuff with it also. I want to keep the load capacity the same.

 

[Diff Whack Daddy]

I still have my overloads and they really don't effect my flex at all. They don't hinder droop at all, but they do limit the up travel by about an inch or two. Just enough to keep my 35's from rubbing to hard on my inner fender wells. They still rub, but without the overloads I am afraid they would bind on the inner fenders.

 

[nak4af]

Since I have the warrior shackels, I wanted to remove the overloads to keep the rear level with the front. After getting the SOA done, I'll do some experamenting to see what works best.

 

[Diff Whack Daddy]

After doing the SOA your rear spring will eventually sag. I just put on the warrior shackles to compensate for that.