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Rotors Under Spec - Pads OK - Replace?

joshfig

Member
Joined
April 4, 2005
Messages
30
Reaction score
2
City, State
Smyrna, GA
Year, Model & Trim Level
00 XLS 4x4
I took my car to Pep Boys. They said the Rotors were under spec on the front (.93 vs .98 Spec) and they recommended replacing the pads and rotors.

The pads are fine and have plenty of life left.

I'd rather not replace the rotors and pads if I don't need to .

Any Advice?

I have an 00 XLS 4x4 with a 4.0 OHV
 



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Well your rotors obviously need to be replaced, as Pep Boys tried to put them on a brake lathe and they could not be turned due to being below spec. If your rotors needed to be turned, then they were not perfectly even. If they're not even, then your brake pads are not wearing evenly, which is why they should be replaced too.
 






They are not trying to turn them or put them on the lathe. They just did the check as part of an overall inspection. I was having the alignment done and a few other things. They go over the whole thing to drum up other busniness.

So assuming the brakes are fine and the Rotors don't need turned, is having the rotors .05 below spec (.93 vs. 0.98) at all dangerous or do I simply need to replace them once I have the brakes replaced?

On another note, I don't have any idea why they would be below spec. I bought the car with 34k on it 3 years ago but have never replaced the front pads (still a ton of life left). I wonder if the previous owner put ceremic pads on that wore the rotors down? That would explain why the pads are fine and rotors are worn.

Advice?
 






I wouldn't try to save money by skimping on brake repairs. Rotors aren't really that expensive.
 






My frustriation is the brakes are fine and the rotors are straight. They said that if they do the rotors they need to do the brakes also.

I don't have a problem spending the money to keep it in shape, I am just wondering if it is necessary.
 






OK, another question. If I do the rotors, do I need to change the brakes as well?
 






Yes, replace both together. They both have surfaces that "break in" together.
You need new rotors and pads.
You should replace pads whenever you replace or re cut rotors
There, does that get it?

To install new rotors ( which you need) without old pads, is like honing the cylinders, and using old rings.
 






When I replace the brake pads, I usually either have the rotors turned or I replace them depending on the condition. Then you have a nice, true surface for the new pads.

The primary danger of using undersized rotors is that they would be more likely to warp or possibly crack.

Things that you should check when inspecting/replacing the brakes:

1. Thickness and condition of pads.
2. Thickness and runout (side to side movement) of the rotors
3. Condition of the calipers and caliper slider pins.
 






Thanks JTSmith - I think it's time for me to tackle this job myself. Pep Boys want's to charge $100 per rotor plus $120 for the brakes. Napa has Rotors for $30 a pop, so that looks like the way to go.

One novice question. When I take the old rotors off and pop the new ones on, what do you do with the Lug Nut Threads? Do they secure into the Rotors or behind them?
 






Of course, you will get all kinds of opinion.... so I will give you mine. The spec is there for safety reasons.... both for material integrity but also for things like heat dissipation (causes fade). some manufacturers / car makers have a spec for "machining to" and "discard"... with the "machine to" allowing for a "safety margin". So there is a possibility that you have some "margin"... probably not for machining but when you finally replace everything (ie. new pads). Finally, I guess "if a tree falls in the forest would anyone hear".... if you didn't go thru the inspection (for what ever reason), would you have still driven your vehcile XXXX more miles... probably until you noticed that the pad were worn / feeler squealling or things like brake fade was happening. I hope you aren't looking for someone to make the decision for you or to ultimately blame.... follow your "normal operating principles"... safety, money, practicalness, etc.... you choose... hopefully it will be wisely which I am sure is your goal with this thread. Personally, I too am money "challenged" so I would probably wait.

PS. the spec in 96 (only have this cd manual) is .96 for 2 wheel and .81 for 4 wheel.

Finally, one more quote though... not sure who the originator was but here it is.... "I can tell you everything that you need to know to succeed, but ultimately you need to experience it yourself to understand".
 






joshfig said:
.

One novice question. When I take the old rotors off and pop the new ones on, what do you do with the Lug Nut Threads? Do they secure into the Rotors or behind them?

On the 4x4, the rotor slides over the studs (lug nut threads) on both the front and rear rotors. The studs thread into the hubs which don't need to be removed on a brake job. 2wd fronts have a one piece rotor and hub.
 






Dogrfriend - Thanks for the clarification and the grace on my jargen. The job doesn't look too bad. I'm going to tackle it this weekend.
 






Pep Boys Brake Job

Here in TX, last weekend, I paid $130 for my '98 Xploder; rotors turned and Raybestos pads and repacked wheel bearings + a $20 mail in rebate.
 






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