Rplace Blower Motor? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Rplace Blower Motor?


Well-Known Member
August 6, 2010
Reaction score
City, State
Ontario, California
Year, Model & Trim Level
'91 X 4x4
Ok, my 91's blower motor is weak, very weak. If I turn on HI it seems more like Low on other vehicles I've owned. I searched today and found the thread about trash getting in the housing, especially near the resistor. So, this morning I pulled mine off and found it perfectly clean, minus one small leaf. So that's not the problem.

Is the 1st Gen X known for a weak blower motor, or is mine maybe going bad? I mean, seriously, with fan on HI I can not feel air blowing on my face if I point the vent right at me while driving. To me that's unacceptable.

And, if it is a design flaw, is there another model that has a better blower motor that will swap in without any modifications?

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i had to put one in my 91 sport( just quite one day) popped a simmons aftermarket one in it and it doesn't work as good as the oe one, but definitely better then no air. but if it is really weak, turn the truck on and turn the blower fan on if it doesn't seem to be working under the hood check the connections for voltage. could be a blocked some wheres. if all else fails buy a new one put it in can't hurt. but it should be blowing alot better than that.

I replaced mine with a AutoZone one and it worked better then it did before.Nothin wrong with the first one i am just a type of person that will replace something to make it work better even if its not broke.O yea i have a 94 XLT with 85,657 i would say add other 100,000 to eait i hate the 5 number crap

If you have the controls on high and the motor is turning slowly, then you are loosing voltage some where. Take a meter and back probe the connector. Read across the two wires for the motor, at the motor, and see if you get near battery voltage while the motor is running at its fastest setting. If you have it set on low or medium speed, then a lower voltage is normal, because of the resisters. Full speed bypasses the resisters.

You are reading the volt drop across the motor, and you should see near batt voltage on the meter. If you have less, then you are loosing voltage somewhere in the circut, most likely the motor through shorts( brush dust, corrosion), or resistance of bad or burnt brushes. You can test all the parts of an electrical circut this way, resisters, wires, etc. You should see very little to no drop on conductors and contacts(wires, relays, switches), and alot or all on the loads(resistors, motors, solenoids).

Remember the volt drop is the voltage read on the meter screen. Its the amount of voltage that bypassed the circut (is lost) because of a resistence in the circut between the two leads of your meter, while the circut is operating.

I hope this is not too confusing and that it helps.

I was having a lot of problems with my blower motor last winter, which was making for some very cold drives. Turned out that it was just the relay in the fuse box that was bad, so for $10 I got a new relay and the blower worked good as new.

I would definitely see if you are having electrical problems of some variety before you go buying a whole new motor.