Ruby II and still looks like new. | Ford Explorer Forums

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Ruby II and still looks like new.

Greyfox2

New Member
Joined
August 28, 2008
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City, State
Oregon
Year, Model & Trim Level
1990 Bronco II
Rudy has been all over the U.S. Canada, and Mexico, and never once let me down.
Back in 1993, after a lot of *****ing, and threats of a lawsuit, Ford replaced the engine because of the lifter noise at start up. They rebuilt the trans, replaced the rear planet-gears, axels and bearings, replaced the driveshaft and U-joints until they found a gear lash problem. They replaced the auto hubs with up graded hubs because of a ratcheting noise when the hubs were engaged, and even replace the LED in the radio .... all at 59,400 miles, and all under warranty. It took 6 weeks to get it right, and they gave me a free rental for the six weeks. Right now Ruby has 71K on her drive-train. I replace belt and hoses every 30K. Before they quit on me I replaced the altenator and starter at 100K. She has alway drank Mobil 1 5/30, and has always had Mobil 1 gear lub. Would I buy another Ford, only if I could take it back to the dealer that restored Ruby at no cost to me.

I've added;
New FlowMaster muffler with 2 1/2" pipes
KN Air System
60K Volt Coil
Two Batteries
Michelin LTX MS 30/9.5/15
Rancho 9000RX Shocks/switch adjustable
Overloads
and Ruby now gets 26.5 on High-Test on a straight run.
 

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thats a nice BII!
 






Now Ruby has a lifter problem

Ruby now has a problem during start-up (ONLY) I can hear a very nosiy tapping noise, this is only during a cold start-up, and only for two to three seconds, or until oil pressure builds up. It also seems to be only when Ruby has been setting over night. The tapping doesn't happen with every start-up, it come and goes. I had the dealership where I bought the B2 replace the engine at 59K after raising a lot of hell over the tapping. After 1000 miles on the new engine the tapping came back. The only problem with my B2 (it looks like new from bumper to bumper) is this tapping.

I've read all the internet forums and read any number of would-be solutions to tapping: from changing the oil & filter, to changing the oil pump, to changing the PVC valve, to doing a complete rebuild. But all these solutions related to have to do with engine that have a tapping noise all the time ...... nothing to do with tapping only during start-up, and only part time.

Does anyone out there really have the right solution to this problem?

In 1989 Ford made two changes in the 2.8 engine. They upgraded the heads to stop the cracking and warrping, and went from mechanical lifers to hydraulic. This was called the 2.9 engine. Many believe that the oil drain back filter valve has to be the problem with the start up tapping.

I'm wondering if the problem can be salved with a backdoor approach. My B2 starts with a tap of the starter. If there is some way to make it turn over two to three times to pump oil back into the lifters before the engine starts, BUT without losing any performance. Anyone got any ideas? Or maybe going to the next higher performance oil pump.

I've been told to live with it. But the idea that the tapping can do no harm doesn't make any sense. Popping a valve stem, and diving a valve into a piston, bending a pushrod, or collapsing a lifter would really make for a bad day if I were camped out on top of a mountain somewhere.

I've also been thinking of going to a diesel engine if I can find the extra bucks. Ford built one for the two wheel B2s, but with only 81 horses it was usless for pulling even light-grade hills.
 






Now Ruby has a lifter problem

I'd sure like to fix this problem, any good ideas will be explored.
 






Can you at least narrow it down to what side the noise is. It it is a lifter it will transfer the noise up the push rod. Then all you have to do is to take a ratchet extension or screwdriver...place on valve cover and you will be abe to least narrow it down to the right or left side. Then while enine is cold take off valve cover. Have someone turn engine on. You can place an old towel around bottom side of rockers to catch some of the oil. I say some becuase it will get a little messy. You might even see the rocker that is not lifting as high, but I dought it. Put your fingers on top of each rocker quickly and if one is loose due to lifter not funtioning properly, you will feel it.
Or just adjust all your rockers. Now I don't remeber what your engine looks like under the valve covers so all I said might not be correct. I'm talking steps I do on my V8.
 






Any new ideas?

:us:
Ruby now has a problem during start-up (ONLY) I can hear a very nosiy tapping noise, this is only during a cold start-up, and only for two to three seconds, or until oil pressure builds up. It also seems to be only when Ruby has been setting over night. The tapping doesn't happen with every start-up, it come and goes. I had the dealership where I bought the B2 replace the engine at 59K after raising a lot of hell over the tapping. After 1000 miles on the new engine the tapping came back. The only problem with my B2 (it looks like new from bumper to bumper) is this tapping.

I've been told to live with it. But the idea that the tapping can do no harm doesn't make any sense. Popping a valve stem, and diving a valve into a piston, bending a pushrod, or collapsing a lifter would really make for a bad day if I were camped out on top of a mountain somewhere.

I've also been thinking of going to a diesel engine. Ford built one for the two wheel B2s, but with only 81 horses it was usless for pulling even light-grade hills.
 






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