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Rust converted (rear end)

Hacra

Elite Explorer
Joined
May 30, 2014
Messages
320
Reaction score
103
City, State
Nurmijärvi
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 5.0 Eddie Bauer
Hey all, back end of my explorer has been severely affected by road salt in the last years and it's time to do something about it.

So i bought rust converter, have never used them in past and decided to give it a try.

Product i am using is called aquasteel

Aquasteel is a unique corrosion control system developed by Bayer-Wood Technologies for use on rusted ferrous metal surfaces. The ferrous surface to be protected is converted on contact to a complex organic iron compound by the unique deoxygenating agent incorporated in the Aquasteel converter. This black, corrosion-resistant layer is formed by utilizing all the surface moisture and oxygen during the reduction reaction. The special copolymer latex emulsion system dries to form an impermeable barrier to oxygen and moisture.

And do note i am not employee, nor this is a advert of the product in commercial sense, just sharing my personal experience.

I applied the stuff with brush as i read, better results are seen by doing so, i am actually regretting this as it took forever to get into all the small spaces with brush and should have sprayed it. Also earlier i brushed tow hook assembly/bar/whatever it is called, and the rust converter forms kind of thickish layer which makes the metal look as if it'd be wet, even though it is not. Looks to be working alright.

2.5 litre bottle from ebay with shipping was around 50€ (or 60$ ish), so it's not the cheapest stuff out there, i used around 300ml maybe for the things i brushed it to.

The job is still incomplete as i have to add another coat of it and paint the areas brushed

Below some pictures of before and after.

Before
Before.jpg
Before2.jpg

Being applied
being_applied.jpg


After
IMG_20190622_145220.jpg
IMG_20190622_145235.jpg

Decided to treat the spare rim too, which was VERY rusty.
Spare_too.jpg


As you apply it you can notice blue/dark blue color and later it becomes dark/transparent.

I will take more pictures as i get to apply second coat and paint.
 



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I have worked with rust on auto bodies. It is a PITA... I have used rust converters before...i.e... naval jelly, Name Brand rust converters, and they do convert the rust but it also coats the rust making it look shiny or wet. The problem I found is that rust is not a solid surface and by coating it with the converter it holds the rust in place and prevents the paint from having a good surface to adhere to. (My opinion.)
If you can pressure wash it, that will blast most of the rust and grease away, getting into tight spots, too. If what you are planning to paint is under the car you might want to use a rubberized undercoat spray.
Good luck with you project and thanks for the picks!
 






I am planning to paint it with hammerite. I hope the paint sticks.

6412490012090.jpg


This is basically quick remedy for a while until i get proper garage to work on the car, when that happens there are plans to fully disassemble the car and sand blast everything.

Also, over the spare carrier assembly there's a some sort of electric motor or pump? is this the compressor for air ride shocks? (thinking of removing the whole spare carrier and placing the spare to roof eventually). If it can be removed, i will.
 






I believe you are asking about the charcoal canister bracket. Those metal brackets rust and disintegrate. You can replace it with a salvage yard plastic bracket if you can locate one. Plastic brackets were used in certain years (1999+ ?) models.

Removal would delete your fuel vapor emissions system.

Good luck.
 






I believe you are asking about the charcoal canister bracket. Those metal brackets rust and disintegrate. You can replace it with a salvage yard plastic bracket if you can locate one. Plastic brackets were used in certain years (1999+ ?) models.

Removal would delete your fuel vapor emissions system.

Good luck.

In one of the pictures you can see the bracket i have fabricated (yes, it is fabulous).

And this is not what i asked.

In this picture you can see its wires/tubes slightly (not charcoal canister tubes).
index.php


I will try to get better pictures later as i start painting, just finished putting on second coat of aquasteel.
 






Well done at trying to kill the rust. Slowing it down will help a lot.

For your question, yes, that is the ARC air compressor. The ARC system was on all 95-98 Limited's and Eddie Bauer models. Then it became optional from 99-01 as a rear only system.

I wonder when yours was disabled, and if it was from the pump dying.

Projectthread061.JPG


Projectthread100.JPG
 






Yes, i disabled mine, when i installed load assist shocks. as the "ARC" shocks were rather pricey.

And thanks, i'll remove my ARC compressor, possibly whole spare carrier assembly.
 






I do have a comment on this thread, even though I don't own a ARC equipped truck thankfully, and thats that you need to ditch that Wilderness AT spare, those are the recalled one, and I always held the recall on Firestone's behalf, plus the tire is twenty two years old.
 






I do have a comment on this thread, even though I don't own a ARC equipped truck thankfully, and thats that you need to ditch that Wilderness AT spare, those are the recalled one, and I always held the recall on Firestone's behalf, plus the tire is twenty two years old.

I was aware the spare is VERY old and needs to be replaced, though i doubt in Finland i will be able to get into the recall program. I sent Ford an email.
 






Okay, so i finished painting the rear end and the paint really shows the uneven surfaces, but at least it is all now protected from rust for a while until i get better place to do things.

The paint could have used little thinner for easier application, sadly didn't have any at hand at the moment. Also removed the ARC compressor.

And i think i will have to fabricate new shackles as the old ones are very rusty and about to fall apart, might lift rear end few inches while i am at it (i think i should start project page for this car).

Some pictures of the "finished" product.
behind1.jpg
behind3.jpg
IMG_20190624_133414.jpg


Edit: Really like how the silver reflects light and you are actually able to see down there.
 






Looks good. It is in an area like this that I think the rubberized undercoating would work. It is a thick, textured, rubber spray that would cover up all the rust pitting.
 






The thing to keep an eye on is the body seams, everywhere two panels are spot welded together. The seams are where rust gets into and is permanent. Surface rust is easy, seams are impossible.
 






Nice Pic's,
Looks like your doing a Great job!

The thing to keep an eye on is the body seams, everywhere two panels are spot welded together. The seams are where rust gets into and is permanent. Surface rust is easy, seams are impossible.

+1 some fluid film may help though.
 






Nice Pic's,
Looks like your doing a Great job!



+1 some fluid film may help though.

I like Rust Dissolver, it's thin like water and wicks into seams well.

That Hammerite brand is good too, though I haven't tried it.
 






The rust converter solution that i used, got well into small cracks and seams. The paint, not so much, should have used some sort of thinner to make it less viscous. Also next time i'll spray it, using brush and roller was PITA.

Also a LOT of dirt had made home in there.

Rear bumper is my next job, i will have to figure out how to remove it (what bolts to loosen, afaik 4?).

Also noticed the shock absorber that is connected to rear axle and chassis sideways is probably original, i should change that, what is it called (picture below)?

IMG_20190622_143016.jpg


Edit: I actually have bought this rubberized undercoating which i probably will add later if need be.
 






After some digging around i found the part name, it is called axle shaft damper and the part number is SC2958
 






Hey all, back end of my explorer has been severely affected by road salt in the last years and it's time to do something about it.

So i bought rust converter, have never used them in past and decided to give it a try.

Product i am using is called aquasteel



And do note i am not employee, nor this is a advert of the product in commercial sense, just sharing my personal experience.

I applied the stuff with brush as i read, better results are seen by doing so, i am actually regretting this as it took forever to get into all the small spaces with brush and should have sprayed it. Also earlier i brushed tow hook assembly/bar/whatever it is called, and the rust converter forms kind of thickish layer which makes the metal look as if it'd be wet, even though it is not. Looks to be working alright.

2.5 litre bottle from ebay with shipping was around 50€ (or 60$ ish), so it's not the cheapest stuff out there, i used around 300ml maybe for the things i brushed it to.

The job is still incomplete as i have to add another coat of it and paint the areas brushed

Below some pictures of before and after.

Before
View attachment 171350 View attachment 171351
Being applied
View attachment 171352

After
View attachment 171353 View attachment 171354
Decided to treat the spare rim too, which was VERY rusty.
View attachment 171355

As you apply it you can notice blue/dark blue color and later it becomes dark/transparent.

I will take more pictures as i get to apply second coat and paint.
I realize this thread is a few years old, but how did the Aquasteel rust converter hold up for you? Soon it will be warm enough outside to get to the rust on my 98. I used some Permatex rust converter last fall, and it just about choked me! Outdoors even, wouldn't try it again without some sort of gas mask.
 






There are many brands of rust converters, this thread shows the typical process and affects. I prefer using a very thin liquid product first, rust in seams is much more dangerous than surface rust. Converting products usually will be fairly thick, so they will not get into seams in any useful way. Surface rust isn't that big of a deal, but any deep or hidden rust is massive.

Check your rocker panels carefully, especially the lowest part along the outside. Those are a set of metal panels that create a pocket along the side, and any rust in them will spread internally to the entire section.
 






I realize this thread is a few years old, but how did the Aquasteel rust converter hold up for you? Soon it will be warm enough outside to get to the rust on my 98. I used some Permatex rust converter last fall, and it just about choked me! Outdoors even, wouldn't try it again without some sort of gas mask.
So far it has done goodish job, but i'd recommend thorough cleaning before usage (sand blasting, laser cleaning, etc.), also applying it by spraying might be better idea as it's easier to spread that way.
 



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