Rust removal tools

[03WIExplorerLtd]

Well, I think I am going to try and tackle some of the rust on my Explorer soon... plan to use my Dremel, in the door seams and remove it(see photo, right now gobs of Por15 and touchup, clearcoat). Dremel has little stainless steel looking wire brushes that I think would work. Plan to just get the main path where the bubbles are. This will not be a quick fix, but more of a journey.

I bought some primer, paint and clear from a company that sells custom touchup. Plan to put por15 down after prepped, then primer, etc. Paint matches really well, tried it.

Any thoughts of the right Dremel bit to use would be appreciated.

 

[onestout]

get rid of the dremel and get something with some more power or you will be there all week trying to clean it up.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’d just hand sand it. Otherwise, I’d use a 4” grinder with a flap disk.

 

[JAPeterson]

The rust isn't just where you see the bubbles but all around them.

The best way to get rid of it is to cut out that panel and replace it.

Once rust starts it is a bear to get rid of.

 

[Mbrooks420]

That amount of rust isn’t remotely worthy of reskinning the door.

 

[03WIExplorerLtd]

Thanks, I will pull out the grinder. Appreciate it.

 

[Mlarv5]

A flap sander on a drill will get it off faster and safer then a grinder. Next get some Corroseal to coat the rust. I use this all the time instead of the Por 15.

Just leave the rust and hit it with this stuff. It converts it to a black hard shell that is paint able. I spray all the exterior metal that is unprotected and it has lasted for years. I have also done the inside of my 68 Mustang when I took all the interior out.

Mike

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’d remove as much of the rust as you can. Rust converter is great, but rust never sleeps. The more you get, the longer your repair will last.

 

[03WIExplorerLtd]

I’d remove as much of the rust as you can. Rust converter is great, but rust never sleeps. The more you get, the longer your repair will last.

That's the plan. Rear doors have this, rear tailgate, both need to stripped, primed, painted, etc. Bottom of doors suffer from the chronic paint coming off the doors (pages about this on the site). I will scuff and smooth before repaint.

 

[CDW6212R]

If you have or find any rust, remove as much as possible of course. But when you get the paint off of the metal, exposing the metal and rust, then spray it with Rust Dissolver, from Eastwood;Rust Remover - Eastwood Rust Dissolver

That's the best thing I know of for killing hidden rust within body seams. All of the converter products and other coverage stuff, is rather thick. The Rust Dissolver is just like water, thin, and it will wick into body seams once you expose the seam. It is not a poison etc, but don't get it on interior parts, plastic etc. I've used it many times, just spray it directly on rust, but definitely right after finishing grinding/removal etc. Let is set for at least an hour, and it can be left indefinitely. You just prep the surface afterwords like any bare metal, with epoxy primer or POR 15 etc.

 

[03WIExplorerLtd]

Great advice, thanks everybody. I will take some pictures on this once I repair.

 

[03WIExplorerLtd]

Did the removal today, with sandpaper flap wheel with Dremel. Rust wasn't as bad I thought, only on surface. Again, poor quality processes that Ford uses causes this. Rust was confined to the area where the seam is rolled over. Primed, painted and clearcoated. It looks OK as i didnt use spray, used bottles.

Took all afternoon to do but I have better piece of mind now.