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RX Performance catch can for Explorer Sport

EcoPowerParts

Well-Known Member
Joined
March 4, 2013
Messages
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City, State
Phoenix, AZ
Year, Model & Trim Level
2011 Flex Ecoboost
From Tracy at RX Performance:
Just finished Patrick's 2011 Flex Ecoboost install, and here is what we found:

The 2011-2014 will not be much different so this guide will help all, but the install will take app. 30-45 minutes if your handy. This syatem entirely reworks the PCV evacuation system as well eliminating the water/oil/unburnt fuel accumulation in the IC as well as trapping the oil and damaging compounds that are part of the blow-by crankcase vapors.

The system now will provide steady evacuation in both non-boost and boost operation unlike the OEM system that only evacuates at idle and part throttle non-boost operation eliminating the reason the crankcase fills with the water and unburnt fuel in the first place.

So, what we found righ away when we removed the throttle body and scoped the intake valves is this issue is just as bad as the F150's, and this vehicle with only 30k miles on it already has substantial intake valve coking, so we recommend he do a seafoam treatment (a manual cleaning is far better). The intake charge pipe was soaked in oil as you can see from the pictures below, and so was the IM and throttle body. (Patrick is strapping it to the AWD dyno right now for some runs as well).

So, here is what we found when removing the throttle body:

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We could dump oil right out of some of it.

We then snaked the boroscope into the front most ports we could access through the IM snout, and after several attempts where the lens got oil covered, we were able to see the valves. Here are a couple of pictures of the boroscope screen showing, but it is not a real clear picture:

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To return the engine to it's efficiency it first had, a manual cleaning is really needed but an upper induction cleaning will help.

As I don't know how many photos per post fit, I will start a second post with the install procedure.
 



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And now onto the install. The Flex is only different from the F150 by the engine being a longitudinal configuration, so fitment of the can for mounting was a bit more difficult, but we found a pretty ideal spot and draining will be through a drain hose that protrudes out the bottom so it can be accessed easily during oil changes, or simply by placing a cup under it and opening the 1/4 turn ball valve drain.

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So to begin with, we remove the engine cover, and locate the tubes we will be removing.

The tube from the rear most cam cover that has a integrated checkvalve from the factory runs to the barb on the intake manifold snout right behind the TB:
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Remove the tube and using a razor blade, carefully slit the hard plastic tube at the OEM barb so it will split and allow removal:
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You can then use the included 5/8" short tube to attache the reducer bars to the OEM fitting so it snaps right back on:
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Do the same with the front cam cover cleanside line:
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The ILE style cleanside spearator will then replace the oil fill cap and use the incuded vacuum cap to cap the barb on the cam cover, running the hose from the cleanside separator to the barb on the intake pipe the OEM line originally connected to:
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You have now replaced the direct line that allows oil/water/fuel to enter the charge pipes and the IC. The cleanside separator will catch and return the oil caught during the momentary reversion when transitioning from non-boost to boost.
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We then move to the suction source that provides evacuation during boost (note, the same source is used for the brake booster vacuum when in boost as well until later years when a aux vacuum pump is added):

We are going to drill into each inlet tube that feeds the turbos with a 3/8" drill bit (if cold temps, warm with a hair dryer). If the hole is to small to allow the barb to push in for a snug fit, ream it slightly. It also helps to add some RTV or similar sealant to the barb to ensure a good seal. Do not be concerned with any small plastic particles that may fall into the tube, these will pass harmlessly through:
The rear tube
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and the front tube where we T into the secondary evac outlet on the can:
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Now we mount the can itself. Note the bracket is 2 piece, and is adjustable. We remove the single plastic fastener shown to open an existing hole to mount to:
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Reaching up under the cowl you can place the bracket and fasten with the 1/4 20 x 1.5" bolt and nut:
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Now connect each line as follows. The line from the rear cam cover will connect to the center of the catchcan (inlet) with no checkvalve.
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One outer fitting from the can, with checkvalve flowing away from the can connects to the intake manifold vacuum barb.
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The final outlet from the can connects to the T'd line from each inlet tube providing suction for evacuation while in boost operation.
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And the final finished install looks almost factory:
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I will be announcing pricing and availability as soon as I have it.
I would imagine it will be the same as the F150 with $299 for the catch can and $99 for the oil fill cap called the clean side oil separator.

Video of an F150 owner with the RX catch can draining his after a short period on his truck
 






That's expensive! Catch Cans are $100. Can u please explain why so much? Hoses and fitting $15
 






That's expensive! Catch Cans are $100. Can u please explain why so much? Hoses and fitting $15

Here's the info right from their site but to make it simple it's not just a "can" with a couple of fitting on it, there's quite a bit inside of the catch can and there's check valves as well.
If you want to purchase a generic catch can and install it then it is always an option for you of course.


The RX can is the only unit available that has integrated positive closing poly check valves & self regulates the amount of flow eliminating oil pull-through during deceleration from WOT runs.



The cans are nearly 1 qt capacity, have a unique disc baffling system and perforated dispersion tube to ensure the vapors not only cool quickly to droplets, but the large separation chamber allows the flow to slow enough for the droplets to fall out of suspension trapping it before the vapors travel a final passes through a separate exit chamber and out the integrated check valve.



The dual valve unit is the ONLY one on the market that ensures continuous crankcase evacuation no matter what the operating mode. In boost or not, the dual valve unit detects the moment the intake manifold becomes pressurized closes preventing the boost from pressurizing the crankcase, and opens the valve allowing the FI head unit inlet to provide the vacuum needed for continuous evacuation.



Remote drain tube makes emptying simple & mess free.
 












Catch can for transverse vehicles!

A complete ready to go plug and play solution with clean side separator for the transverse Ecoboost vehicles is now available from UPR.
All hoses are plug and play, remove factory hose/connector and use new hose with factory style connector.
Comes with bracket made for the vehicle.


Ready to rock and roll - ships within 24 hours of order - no delays. $349.99 for satin, add $20 for black or polished. Free US shipping - $30 additional for Canada.


http://www.ecopowerparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=122

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Catch Can

I ordered mine last week and I am still waiting for it to arrive. I plan to post photos of the install and I will let you know how it goes.
 






UPR Catch can

The kit did not come with any instructions or installed photographs with the engine cover removed so I going attempt this install after I receive confirmation from EcoPowerParts on which hoses connect where. The kit appears to be very well constructed with all quick connect hoses. I choose this kit because there was no drilling and hose cutting.
 

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UPR Catch Can 2014 Ford Explorer Sport

UPR Catch Can 2014 Ford Explorer Sport Install
 

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UPR Catch Can 2014 Ford Explorer Sport

UPR Catch Can 2014 Ford Explorer Sport
This install took approximately 15 minutes! I am hoping the hoses are connected to the correct places. I plan to inspect the contents of the catch can after 2,000 miles and at which time I will report back with photographs of the fluid captured. At that time I plan to install a drain hose from the bottom of the can with a on/off valve for easy access underneath of the engine bay. So far the motor is running perfect with no leaks or noises.
 

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Apologies guys for probably a newbie question...also hope I'm posting this on the proper forum. :chug: Just picked up a 2015 Ingot Silver Sport last Sunday.

What other options are available for a catch can? I noticed JLT makes one but read comments on a vendor site JLT could only confirm fitment on 11 to 14s. Also, is only one side necessary or both sides? I know on a boosted 5.0, dual OCCs are a must.

Thank You kindly.
 






Catch can?

Does explorer sport need catch can? Being direct injected motor and PCV system can allow oil get to intake and bake on back of the valves. Maybe I missed here but I just not see people talk about catch can for explorer
 












Awesome. Thank you very much.
 






Question on RX catch can

Anyone here know the difference between rxspeedwork and teamrxp? They both sell rx catch can and both mention Tracy Lewis design. Just wondering which one is legit?
 






People with catch can please come in 2016 sport

I had a post asking which RX catch can to get because there were few threads regarding it while back but no new update.

I called the phone number in the RX performance site and one number is no longer working and the other just went to some guys VM.

Anyway, I am looking for a good catch can system (elite or the real RX) and would like to get some feedback from people who have install them recently. The quality of the kit and how much stuff it catch... Etc...

And of course looking only for the system will work on 16 explorer sport.

Any vender got anything let me know. I have been to some of your site and I hate to say it, but most of the site I went to isn't very easy to navigate.
 






Has anyone successfully installed a catch can in the 2016 or 2017 Explorer Sport or Platinum?
 



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