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SAS link ends

What are everyones experiences and preferences on link ends? From heims to johnny joints to creaper joints. I am thinking of running rubber bushings on the axle ends of my Y-Link (glorified radius arms) and not sure what size to use, as well as which styleI of flexy joint end that will mount to the frame.

I ask because my rig will see lots of daily driving use and will see road salt in the winter months. Obviously strength and longevity being the key players.
 



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DB_1

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What are everyones experiences and preferences on link ends? From heims to jonny joints to creaper joints. I am thinking of running rubber bushings on the axle ends of my Y-Link (glorified radius arms) and not sure what size to use, as well as which styleI of flexy joint end that will mount to the frame.

I ask because my rig will see lots of daily driving use and will see road salt in the winter months. Obviously strength and longevity being the key players.

I'm using poly bushings on the axle end of my lowers as well as both ends of my uppers. On the frame end of my lowers i'm running Ruff Stuff 1.25 heims with 3/4" misalignment spacers. Seems to be a good set-up so far but for a daily driver you might consider Johnny Joints for the frame end.

Rubber bushings are more forgiving and might have a better ride but you'll probably be replacing them often as they split and crack with hard use.
 






turboexplorer

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It looks like these will be my best option for the frame side of the control arms. Reviews are good and recomended by several that do a fair amount of link set ups.

Johnny joint
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/CUR-CE9114
 






RockRanger

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I am using the Johny joints. So far so good. Only thing I would different is get the 5/8 bolt version instead of the 9/16 ones I have.
 






rookieshooter

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It looks like these will be my best option for the frame side of the control arms. Reviews are good and recomended by several that do a fair amount of link set ups.

Johnny joint
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/CUR-CE9114

My experience is limited to two kinds on my front 4 link and rear radius arm.



IMG_0457.jpg


Here is my rear radius arm with the frame joint from Ballistic fab and then used their weld on bushings for the axle end.

DSC03845.jpg


Here's the front 4 link which uses all joints which are again supplied be BF.

IMG_0013.jpg


Actually some of the front joints had the studs casted with the housings and some I welded the studs on. Both had the same joint design.

IMG_0071-3.jpg


On the track bar I used BF weld on bushings. I shortened the steel housing so I could use heim joints with spacers also. Notice how the Zerk fitting is off center.

Bottom line several years later with all kinds of east coast rain,snow and road salt I have never had to rebuild them. They are as tight as the day i put them on. I was surprised when i took them off to inspect. Now I can't speak for other brands.
 






turboexplorer

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Thanks guys that gives me better ideas of what I want to do. Poly bushings and johnny joints. And I'll look for the 5/8 bolt version.
 






Brian1

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I am using the Johny joints. So far so good. Only thing I would different is get the 5/8 bolt version instead of the 9/16 ones I have.

I dont think Johnny Joints come in a 5/8" version unless its something new. That is why I am running Trail Gears Creeper Joints with a 5/8" bore. The Creepers are OK, I have had them on for about a year now. I would rather run a Johnny Joint

Edit: Here is another option, it is a poly bushing joint with a bit of misalignment built in due to the shape of the bushing http://davescustoms4wd.com/mm5/merc...=DCU&Product_Code=ROCJOINT&Category_Code=ROCJ
 






DB_1

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Edit: Here is another option, it is a poly bushing joint with a bit of misalignment built in due to the shape of the bushing http://davescustoms4wd.com/mm5/merc...=DCU&Product_Code=ROCJOINT&Category_Code=ROCJ

Interesting...I'm running a similar joint on my uppers that connect to the lower links except for the ones I got were from the original Poison Spyder company. Mine don't have the zerk fittings and they are 3/4" shank and i'm not sure they have any misaligment. The bushings feel like they are of a pretty hard durometer but I don't need a flexy joint in that position.
 






turboexplorer

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So brian confirms the johnny joint choice. Creepers where my second choice.

I have seen those angled bushings but havent seen anyone run them.
 






RockRanger

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I dont think Johnny Joints come in a 5/8" version unless its something new. That is why I am running Trail Gears Creeper Joints with a 5/8" bore. The Creepers are OK, I have had them on for about a year now. I would rather run a Johnny Joint

Edit: Here is another option, it is a poly bushing joint with a bit of misalignment built in due to the shape of the bushing http://davescustoms4wd.com/mm5/merc...=DCU&Product_Code=ROCJOINT&Category_Code=ROCJ

I thought I saw somewhere a 5/8" bore was an option. Now I cant find it.
 












Brian1

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As far as I know Trail Gear and Ballistic are the only ones making a 5/8 joint. TG's are not user rebuildable which is really my only complaint with them. Also they do not like alot of grease or they will pop apart from what I have heard. I know mine didn't take very much grease.
 






Tbars4

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...IIRC, I'm running the Ballistic 2.63" joints with the 5/8 bore..:D

..Here's a link to their forged joints that are user rebuildable (about $14 for the replacement Nylatron race billet parts) and carry a lifetime warranty..
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Forged-Chromoly-263-Ballistic-Joint_p_1636.html

..And here are some of their other links too..
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Ballistic-Joints-Bushings_c_12.html

..Not a huge fan of theirs but the 2.63 joints are a solid product...;)
 






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