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SAS pre-game plan

Just go with one of the Toy box - bigger community running this box so there's plenty of info and aftermarket support (like when you want to tap it for hydro). Try to stay away from an inboard mounted box - it just makes it more difficult to replace. I was able to completely remove the Toy box from the chassis in a few minutes.
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Chad, there is not even enough room to get your fist between the frame and motor in the 5.0s. No way a box of any kind would go in (without a ton of mod).
 






Try to stay away from an inboard mounted box - it just makes it more difficult to replace. I was able to completely remove the Toy box from the chassis in a few minutes.
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X2 on that. I could remove mine in a snap if I needed to. Plus I think your engine compartment is just as crowded as mine. The 302 and the 351w are the same size btw, the 351w is just a little taller. Everyone is always asking how I got it to fit, but its pretty much the same as the 5.0. Pretty much the same power and torque too, at least while stock. I have a little more potential though, there's no replacement for displacement! :D
 






-- I have several suggested feel free to PM me for more info

1st - As far as steering goes, I would recomend Gen1 Explorer Steering Box, but that said with V8 I'm not forsure yet if it will work, I know you would need to do Oil filter relocation kit, but other than that I think it will fit. If not outside frame rail box will be needed.

2nd- Extended radius arms are the way to go, more flex and you should be able to keep stock tranny cross member, I did on my 97 4dr SAS
-I recommend James Duff Longarms, mine were to ones they list as Bronco2/Ranger SAS swap parts, extreme flex and super Tuff -trust me :)
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3rd Dana 44 will die with V8 and 37s if you ever get very agressive, just my opinion I killed multiple Chromoly shafts in My dana 44 with 37s under an Explorer

Not sure if I missed it, do you want Narrow or Full witdh? - If fullwitdh a 76-77 F150 dana 44 has disk brakes and is a better swap, reason being is you can move axle wedge mounts on the tube to get correct coil alignment at the bottom, instead of spacing your coil bucket towers out on the frame.

Thats all I have for now have to go to Lunch..
 












Just trying to show you some pics on why you should go Longarm :) I loved it.
087.jpg
 






This is a 76-77 Front axle see how the wedges are not a cast like 78/79
052.jpg
 






you guys rock. And those pictures are precisely why I want to go the long arm route. The trans xmember sticking around is just and added bonus :D. JD long arms are $$$, so time will tell if I do that or lengthen the radius arms. After looking at the truck and seeing some different set ups, the IFS toyota is the current choice for steering. I like the service-ability of externally mounted as well. And the steering input will be from a 95ish Aerostar.... I think lol. Hopefully it will be long enough, as the box will be waaay front. Now, I've yet to see the axle of choice, but it it's supposedly a split wedge, which would be money. And it has disks. Just the wrong ratio, but that's fine. Do you know off the top of your head how much spacing the buckets would need if its a cast wedge? Hum, chromemolley shafts dying.... the hell were you doing lol? Hopefully I won't be doing anything that rough. And what would you recommend outside of a dana 44 full width? And no, I'm not going with a 14 bolt :confused:
 






If you use 78/79 with cast wedges I think you will need to space the buckets out about 1 & 1/2 inch to 2inches.

Outside steering box will work fine also, just seems they cost a little more than 1st gen.

Stock Radius arms can be extended and that should work for you.

As far as axles go if you can swing the $$$ the best setup would be to buy a Dana 60 King pin axle, I believe certain Ford trucks from 79-91 Had these, forsure 86-91 4wd F350
If you were able to go that route u shouldnt have to ever worry about axle strentgh with 37s so when you are ready to push the limits your rig is ready other wise stick with Dana 44

As far as rear axle goes, I would prolly stay with your disk brake 8.8 and just run adapters that widen and change bolt pattern.

I think I remeber also thinking front driveshaft didnt look like there was enough room for droop without hitting the cross member, but mine never did, but I had atlas 2 behind M50D, whereas you have the Auto and I assume 4406? So not familiar with how it sits in there.


*********Now if we could only convince that Turdle guy :) to do the same, thing****
 












If you use 78/79 with cast wedges I think you will need to space the buckets out about 1 & 1/2 inch to 2inches.

Outside steering box will work fine also, just seems they cost a little more than 1st gen.

Stock Radius arms can be extended and that should work for you.

As far as axles go if you can swing the $$$ the best setup would be to buy a Dana 60 King pin axle, I believe certain Ford trucks from 79-91 Had these, forsure 86-91 4wd F350
If you were able to go that route u shouldnt have to ever worry about axle strentgh with 37s so when you are ready to push the limits your rig is ready other wise stick with Dana 44

As far as rear axle goes, I would prolly stay with your disk brake 8.8 and just run adapters that widen and change bolt pattern.

I think I remember also thinking front drive shaft didnt look like there was enough room for droop without hitting the cross member, but mine never did, but I had atlas 2 behind M50D, whereas you have the Auto and I assume 4406? So not familiar with how it sits in there.


*********Now if we could only convince that Turdle guy :) to do the same, thing****

The CHEAPEST D60 i found was $1,000 :eek:, so my d44 wins this round

See that's my ploy, to get the Kansas man to to have a his and hers truck :). The 4406 sticks out more than the 4405 if memory serves me right, and with the superlift I had a custom double cardan(sp?) dshaft made. So theory says I'm ok, but I'll have to see how this plays out. Do you have a write up on your rig that I could look at? The more info the better at this point


Section, you ended up ditching the ABS and sticking with the OEM master cylinder w/ prop. valve and w/ cruise right? It's the same set up as mine, and my master cylinder is on its last leg. Since I have the VSS on the rear diff and tcase, I can keep cruise which would be nice.
 












You can find a D60 for a lot cheaper than that. Just have to keep looking. This is something that you want to do right the first time, not have to go back and fix later. I would say the best thing you can do is start collecting parts and stuff, and not start tearing down the truck until you have everything you need, and you know exactly what you are going to do. It will go much smoother that way.

http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/1698715678.html
http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/1698162943.html
http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/1688086707.html
http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/1686249901.html
http://cosprings.craigslist.org/pts/1700537636.html
http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/pts/1698829070.html

www.searchtempest.com is your friend. It will key-word search every craigslist within the search radius you enter. These are all ads for drivers drop D60s within 300 miles of Denver for under 1k
 






I agree, the overall cost of the Dana 60 will be more, but if rig is still driveable and you can gather parts and acquire a stock pile before you tear into it.
The 60 in the long run will be cheaper, cause if you run a D44 with 37s and stock shafts they will break, if you upgrade it to aftermarket, that just adds to the cost and they can still break also.

If i would have done it that way from the start I would have been way better off and still have my rig, you asked what I was doing to break D44 shafts, nothing real crazy, the one thing that hurts these 4dr explorer/mountys is there weight once you go larger and these bigger tires, bumpers, recovery gear/ this and that they start to weigh quite a bit and thats what kills the D44 with 37s, one of mine broke just from backing up a steep hill which shift all weight to front end and pass side, tires werent spining, just crawling slow, ask Gmanpaint he was there.

But if you were able to stick with 35s and under you will have better results, also with 37s and being taller you could start to notice more top heavy.
 












swzeet! thanks for all the links! and that craigslist troller is a good resource. That's why this is a pre-game planning thread instead of a lets wing it thread lol. I want to get all my ducks in a row, and then complete the surgery as smooth as possible, plus I dont like doing things twice. I'm in no particular hurry, winter is a ways out lol.

wow... that's a little scary for the dana 44. I need this to be reliable being as this truck will be my ride to, from, and around where I wheel. The D60 is just such a beast, I don't want to overwhelm the rest of my drive train. In short, i'd rather bust an axle shaft then ruin transmission #2. And isn't the D60 wider in both the wedges and overall width? I wish I had all the axles here to measure the crap outta them.

Tires seem to be a big player here. If money is tight after all is said and done, I will take my 33s to the belt. If I can work a deal selling my 90% tread MK1s, I will get 35x13 or ideally 37x14.
 






Updated first post
________________________________________________________________

"For now
78' Ford Dana 44 FW w/ extended radius arms
-regeared to 4.10
-upgraded u joints and axle shafs
-locker?
6" coils
12-14" travel shocks
'72 F-100 coil buckets
f150 shock towers
misc. suspension linkage
EB extended brake lines
new 2nd gen master cylinder
35" tires

Steering:
88-97 Toyota IFS Box (hydro tapped?)
95+/- Aerostar Steering linkage?


Rear:
8.8 will remain w/ adapter/spacer





QUESTIONS:

Best way to bypass the ABS module?
Best choice of steering linkage?
 






DSC04138-1.jpg


OK, if I come off sounding like a master of SAS, please somebody needs to hit me over the head with a 2x4, cause I'm just a Babe in the woods.
My total time driving a D44 SAS is about 4 hours and 13 min., I'm serious.
Just installed it about 48 hours ago.
With that said, if this info helps, good, and if it don't, well then it won't.
Resting inside the B2 is a V8 with stock 84 steering box and obviously coilovers.
I know reading that there was a few posts about that subject and thought that this might just help.
 






So I'm checking out the axle today. Number 1 fell through, so Number 2 is a 76 dana 44. The dana 60, though I'd love to have it, is just not in my budget. As far as knuckles go, will I be able to re-use the originals, or will I need high steer ones? I also have a chromemolley rebuild kit for a good price, so that's a little incentive for the 44.
 



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I would use the stock stuff for now, if you can, to save some cash, then convert to high-steer later on. Thats my plan anyways
 






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