SAS with a dana 30, How are they holding up guys??? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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SAS with a dana 30, How are they holding up guys???

Positive Vibes

Elite Explorer
Joined
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City, State
Santa Cruz, Ca
Year, Model & Trim Level
'94 XLT
Just curious about the dana 30 SAS. I'm tired of looking for a hp44 and may have access to a cheap dana 30 with an ARB and 4.56's.

What size tires you running and how hard have you wheeled it?

Any problems or broken parts?

If you had to do it again what would you differently???

Thanks!
 



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I ran 36" TSL's. i like the SAS, but i think it was because it was SAS'd and not IFS. In 2 years (this is my DD) I've had to replace both unit bearings twice (~$120 a piece) and i break an axle shaft about every other run. (probably fatigued from the previous run) I am running the larger spicer joints. When i got my 4340's and CTM's of course i didn't break a shaft, but i was twisting the splines on the drivers side shaft, good think it was warrantied.

Living in MS i didn't have access to cheap D44 housings so i kept the 30. Now that i am in GA the D44 is a dime a dozen. So i am about to start the buildup of my D44 and swap axles. I really didn't like the fact that my drivetrain was spinning, lack of hubs.

If i could do it over again, i would have waited untill i had a D44 to work with, even if it was a LP 44
 






Yomie said:
In 2 years, I've had to replace both unit bearings twice (~$120 a piece) and i break an axle shaft about every other run. (probably fatigued from the previous run) I am running the larger spicer joints. When i got my 4340's and CTM's of course i didn't break a shaft, but i was twisting the splines on the drivers side shaft, good think it was warrantied.
If i could do it over again, i would have waited untill i had a D44 to work with, even if it was a LP 44
Wow that could get expensive.

Positive- have you thought about a LP44 from an EB at all?
 






I'm running the HP30 w/ chromo shafts, 760 u-joints, and ARB locker and no problems this year. I run 35's and an AtlasII 4.3:1 t-case and wheel almost every weekend on the hardest trails I can find in CO and Moab so... ;) I had a LP30 in there the year before and I broke 2 R&P sets and 1 ARB. In my oppinion it is a waste of time to use a 44 unless it is a HP44. I would either get a 60 or just get a HP30 w/o the vaccume thingy from an 80's cherrokee. I thought about up gradding to the 60 but I just can't justify the money when I don't really break front end parts anymore. I do however have a 2 door that has been stripped of all excess weight w/ coilovers, winch rope, tube doors, single tube rear bumper, aluminum wheels, etc. I have my rig under 4000# with me, my dog, tools, and spares so that probably helps with not breaking things.

Sorry I got so long winded but I think this it the kind of info I would have liked to hear when I chose my axle for the SAS. I guess what I'm trying to say is that the HP30 works well for me. I hope this helps :D

Clint
 






Glad I went with the HP44 :thumbsup:

I did have locker problems and so blew a few hubs (all warrantied). I also blew a 760 U-joint once the locker was fixed. It has been almost 2 years? now and I just upgraded to CTM's and Superior Chro-moly shafts.
 






Thanks for the replies. This is the info I was curious about.

Froader: Yes I would like to go to 35's

I've thought of the LP44 but really want more clearance.

Clint what are you thoughts on running a 30 with 35's on a heavy 4 door?
 






Positive Vibes said:
I've thought of the LP44 but really want more clearance.
DB_1 has a LP44 out of the EB and hasn't had any problems with clearance yet. Plus you don't have to worry about getting it narrowed. I'm just thinking out loud I guess. I imagine there are a lot of the EB 44s out there.
 






You can normally find the LP EB Dana 44's for free :0 At least you can here. We have a couple in the garage.
 






Running 36s on it too... :shrugshoulders:

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1600IMG2517-med.jpg
 






Anyone know what the clearance difference is between the HP44 and LP44???
 






Positive Vibes said:
Anyone know what the clearance difference is between the HP44 and LP44???
I'd guess 4-5" at the yoke. But its not like the driveshaft is hanging down any further than your control arms so I can't imagine it'd ever be a big deal.
 






Mine is a 76 HP Dana 44 out of a F150. It has 760X Ujoints, 1/2" axle tubes and is narrowed 6". I would have went with a LP, but I couldn't find one. Here in Colorado Early Bronc parts are gold! Lots of the EB guys snatch up the Dana 44s and upgrade thier stock Dana 30s that came in the early ones. There were some drawbacks to my HP Dana 44, though. I had trouble with driveshaft clearance and crossmember clearance that wouldn't have been an issue with a LP. I did try to run 5.5-6" of lift in the begining that would have been way more feasable with a LP, but with my HP I was making contact when both sides would compress at the same time, ie. whoops, ditches, speed bumps, dips. If you want to run 8 or 9 inches of lift this will not be a concern at all even in articulation cycles when the drivers side is at full stuff and the passenger side is at full droop. Since I made it taller it is not a concern.

All in all, the biggest drawback for the Dana 30 IMHO is not having hubs. It is a strong front end that would probably survive my abuse and it has the same bolt pattern, but I want hubs. The second biggest drawback in my opinion is the 4link- way more complicated that EB radius arms. This can be overcome with a Long arm kit like Jefe or if you use leafs, but my pockets aren't deep enough for a long arm kit (even to put one on my TJ) and IMHO the explorer frame is not the best candidate for Leafs and coils fit the design much better.
 






Positive Vibes said:
Anyone know what the clearance difference is between the HP44 and LP44???

The main differance is the strength and height of pinion. The LP44 has the same breaking strength as the HP30 and the HP44 similar to that of a LP60. The pinion on most HP axles is going to be about the same height as the one on your TTB set-up. I think the HP30 would work for you simply because you run a ohv V6. If you were making V8 horse power I would say HP44 or 60. I have seen a lot of jeep cherrokees with 35+ tires, cage, winch bumper, etc. wheel some really hard trails with minimal breakage.

What I would suggest is to get a HP30 non-dissconect XJ axle install the "super 30" kit from superior. I would get a non-disco axle because the disconect makes a weak spot in the housing. I have personaly seen that set-up with-stand some very serious conditions with 37's a 4.0L and 4:1 t-case. A friend of mine took it a step even further and used the warn hub conversion and CTM u-joints. I have never seen him break his front diff. I'm not saying he never will and that the HP30 is the strongest diff ever built but if built right you can have the clearance of a 30 with the strength of a built 44. The other good thing is you can easily retro any longarm jeep suspention kit to fit your explorer.
 






My personal opinion is to go with the D44, preferably HP. I know you said you've had trouble looking, but it was hard for me too. I looked, and looked, and looked, and only found them out in CO, CA, UT, etc. The few that were here were atleast 4 hours away and they were quite expensive ($350+, plus the 4 hour one way drive).

I don't really think the Dana 30 is that great of an axle for a modded wheeler. Whether it be LP or HP, I just think the D44 is a better choice. I don't think there have been many people choose a D30 and actually be glad they went that route. As Reggie (Yomie) said, he would've rather saved his $$ and time and waited on a d44. I'm going with a D44 and Ford 9". A D30 never crossed my mind when I had trouble looking for a HP D44. When they are FULLY built up (and also cost more than a lightly built d44) they are pretty decent for 35s or so. But you have to think about the fact that once you completely build it and it's finally strong enough for the 35s, it's maxxed out, no more upgrades. The Dana 44 can handle those 35s stock and with some upgrades can handle an even bigger one than that. So IMO, if you want 35s and some type of locker, the Dana 30 wouldn't be the best choice. JMO. Good luck finding an axle. -Bryan
 






im still in the process of building my d44, but i was gonna get a d30 then decided against it after seeing how many my friend has gone through. and he only has 33's. im using the d44 out of a waggy, so it is lp, but even a lp44 is going to be stronger then a hp30, the carrier itsself is stronger and even though the gears run on the coast side they are still stronger. there was a post on pirate a little while ago ask for opinions on the two(lp/hp). there were two guys in the whole post who ever broke a R&p on there lpd44 and they both had larger then 38's, which is too big for a d44 in my opinion anyways. im going to be running a stock lp waggy with aussie locker and chevy outers, so well see how it holds up with my 36x12.5 TSLs.
 






I know i'm late and everyone else has chimed in, but i will too.

I've only had one problem with my D30 I broke the DS shaft, snapped the ears off the u joint one day in the woods when that was the only tire with traction. I've broke other things like the trac bar mount, but that was because of something that was fabbed, not the axles fault. I like it. I'd rather have hubs, but it's not a big deal. I do wheel it pretty hard at times and i've had not problems if i've got to goose it some wet rocks to get up and over it.

Every one has there opinions about axles and that's fine. People wheel different and it's all in how you wheel. For me the D30 if perfect because i didn't want to have it narrowed with all that extra expense and i liked the idea of being able to keep my wheels.
 






i would not get the dana 30... its cheaper but after u get done building it up its not much cheaper if not more expensive. then when u break it its even more expensive not to mention a pain in the ass to fix every time. it would've been more expensive for me to build up my dana 30 than it was for me to switch to a dana 44. and 35's have it maxed out as it is. i broke mine without a locker up front and i wasn't even in the rocks i was in mud. do it right the first time... or most likely u'll regret it. and have to do it over again anyways... which means even more money. and u have a 4 dr which is even more weight on it. it might or might not work for you but why take the chance? yer going through all the trouble to sas yer truck so y not go with something u know will work instead of chancing it...
 






One reason for the dana30 is it would be cheap. Its already geared and locked. And I have a fabricator who can install it fairly cheap. Thats the only reasons. I want to go 44 but haven't located one that I can afford.
 



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what gears are in it? what locker? stock shafts and u joints or are they upgraded? money was i went with a dana 30 at first... i was trying to save money and i settled on a dana 30. that ultimately costed much much more than if i would've gone with a dana 44 in the first place. its no fun to break stuff. and simply not having to worry so much about breaking something increases the fun factor when u play. and although i'd rather have a dana 30 sas than no sas at all i still would wait till u find a dana 44
 






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