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Scratch That, 4.0 Mild Build and Upgrades

19945speed4x4

Member
Joined
June 25, 2021
Messages
13
Reaction score
8
City, State
Bryan, Texas
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Ford Explorer XLT
After going back and forth on 4.0 rebuild or 5.0 swap I've decided on the 4.0. I've recently purchased an 18' pontoon boat that I plan on keeping. That being said, I have been doing alot of digging and will try to keep all of this info centralized. Parts list and prices etc. I will be copy and pasting a few quotes from other threads as well. But until I can compile said references, enjoy this picture!

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You won't be disappointed with the power of a V8. You may be disappointed by the still anemic 160hp which is all the V6 is good for. 160 is just so little these days :(
 






You won't be disappointed with the power of a V8. You may be disappointed by the still anemic 160hp which is all the V6 is good for. 160 is just so little these days :(
Thankfully I’m not spoiled by horsepower yet. I’m coming from a 300 6 cylinder. 🙂 I’m honestly fine with power output now but will be rebuilding a spare motor with a few bolt ons.
 






You won't be disappointed with the power of a V8. You may be disappointed by the still anemic 160hp which is all the V6 is good for. 160 is just so little these days :(
It really is. To think what they are getting out of engines now is unreal. Mercedes has a 2.0 4 cyl turbo with 416 HP now. If that's not enough for you, it will be coupled with a 200 HP electric motor

I've always wanted to drive an explorer with a V8. I haven't had that opportunity yet.
 






Made a call to Tom Morana. Seemed like a super cool guy. Has anyone ran his cams? He also got me thinking. I could run his 1.8 rocker kit and just utilize a stock cam. Or use stockish valvetrain besides springs and use a Comp 422. His kit seems to change the oiling to hollow pushrods to feed the rockers which (assumingly) I would lose the tapping. Any insight from the 4.0 builders?
 






It really is. To think what they are getting out of engines now is unreal. Mercedes has a 2.0 4 cyl turbo with 416 HP now. If that's not enough for you, it will be coupled with a 200 HP electric motor

I've always wanted to drive an explorer with a V8. I haven't had that opportunity yet.
Motors these days are amazing for size to power. But also seriously complicated. One of these days I will have a fully capable 302 efi swapped first gen. One day.
 






I'd take the 5.0 route for the better transmission options. The reviews about Tom Morana I've read don't seem to be that great. I think I remember reading a post from 2000streetrod buying his 1.8 rockers. He stated the quality looked like something he could have done with an angle grinder and a cutoff wheel.
 






Made a call to Tom Morana. Seemed like a super cool guy. Has anyone ran his cams? He also got me thinking. I could run his 1.8 rocker kit and just utilize a stock cam. Or use stockish valvetrain besides springs and use a Comp 422. His kit seems to change the oiling to hollow pushrods to feed the rockers which (assumingly) I would lose the tapping. Any insight from the 4.0 builders?
I've read his website as well. Was interested my self in doing his lifters pushrods and roller rockers due to my brand new motor having a lifter not pump up on startup and I can hear the play in rocker arm to pushrod. Not sure on how leggitment any of it is or how much fabrication would be required but the roller rockers would be great to stop bad lifters ruining rocker arms. A nice 500 lift cam and 240 duration with the roller rockers could net a nice bump in HP but the stock exhaust manifold is just crap so I would be concerned with removing restrictions first.
 






I've read his website as well. Was interested my self in doing his lifters pushrods and roller rockers due to my brand new motor having a lifter not pump up on startup and I can hear the play in rocker arm to pushrod. Not sure on how leggitment any of it is or how much fabrication would be required but the roller rockers would be great to stop bad lifters ruining rocker arms. A nice 500 lift cam and 240 duration with the roller rockers could net a nice bump in HP but the stock exhaust manifold is just crap so I would be concerned with removing restrictions first.
Supposedly the rockers are bolt on. Interested in how they work when you get them put in. Are you doing the 1.8? Or one of the smaller ones?
 






Supposedly the rockers are bolt on. Interested in how they work when you get them put in. Are you doing the 1.8? Or one of the smaller ones?
1:8. I would do valve springs as well
 






I've read his website as well. Was interested my self in doing his lifters pushrods and roller rockers due to my brand new motor having a lifter not pump up on startup and I can hear the play in rocker arm to pushrod. Not sure on how leggitment any of it is or how much fabrication would be required but the roller rockers would be great to stop bad lifters ruining rocker arms. A nice 500 lift cam and 240 duration with the roller rockers could net a nice bump in HP but the stock exhaust manifold is just crap so I would be concerned with removing restrictions first.
Would there be any issues with running 1.8's and a higher lift cam? i would hate to get all that way and the piston taps the valves.
 






Would there be any issues with running 1.8's and a higher lift cam? i would hate to get all that way and the piston taps the valves.
I'm pretty sure a 500 lift cam is fine? 4.0 experts can help too.
 






Would there be any issues with running 1.8's and a higher lift cam? i would hate to get all that way and the piston taps the valves.
I wouldn't expect too see more than 25 HP to the tire and maybe 40 ft lb more with cam and roller rockers. I would do shorty headers intake along side it get rid of the garbage air directing crap too. Maybe pushing the compression up to 10 would help? Not sure your limited in tuning capabilities aswell
 






I wouldn't expect too see more than 25 HP to the tire and maybe 40 ft lb more with cam and roller rockers. I would do shorty headers intake along side it get rid of the garbage air directing crap too. Maybe pushing the compression up to 10 would help? Not sure your limited in tuning capabilities aswell
The plan will be:
New 95tm/ported 98tm heads on 94 block
Unsure of 410 or 422 cam.
1.8 roller rockers
Hollow pushrods
lifters with oil hole
M328 Oil pump
Gasket match upper and lower light porting
Gasket match lower to heads light porting
3” Fresh air intake
Headers. Can the coated be wrapped?
Underdrive crank pulley
Electric fan
Saginaw pump from Jeep Liberty
 






I liked my two 1st gen Explorers, but the power was low for sure, no drama there except for when the throttle would hang wide open.

I have shopped for 302 build prices, machine work to tons of engine upgrades. The basic stock 302 Explorer engine build will run close to $2000, depending on what used parts you reuse. I'm not the type of person to reuse many old parts, plus the stock 200hp 302 isn't impressive by today's standards. So I'd lean to a modified 302 or a 347. One would run me a good $3k, or way over $4k for the extra 40CI.

That being said, engine builds are expensive, and non stock combos require hundreds more for PCM tuning. So any original engine builds will cost more than the value of the truck, so leave out the thought of resale value.

The later Fords all make much better power, about 50% more in a given V6. I like the NA 3.7 as a good platform which may end up being reliable also. I like the dual injection GDI models, which are 2017 or 18 depending on which engines or models. The 3.7 makes about 300hp @6500, and the 6R trans is stronger than all of the four speeds.

I don't know how any of the late V6's would fit the 1st gens, but I bet it could be as well or a better chance to fit, than the 2nd gens. I hope to find out eventually when I get caught up on things, I'll need a spare that I'm not using to work with. But the cost I see, could be $4k to $5k, depending on who builds the trans and fabricates any of the parts.

I suggest pricing the upgrades you have thought of, and consider that cost versus a late engine dropped in, low mileage, stock, and maybe see 25mpg highway.
 






I liked my two 1st gen Explorers, but the power was low for sure, no drama there except for when the throttle would hang wide open.

I have shopped for 302 build prices, machine work to tons of engine upgrades. The basic stock 302 Explorer engine build will run close to $2000, depending on what used parts you reuse. I'm not the type of person to reuse many old parts, plus the stock 200hp 302 isn't impressive by today's standards. So I'd lean to a modified 302 or a 347. One would run me a good $3k, or way over $4k for the extra 40CI.

That being said, engine builds are expensive, and non stock combos require hundreds more for PCM tuning. So any original engine builds will cost more than the value of the truck, so leave out the thought of resale value.

The later Fords all make much better power, about 50% more in a given V6. I like the NA 3.7 as a good platform which may end up being reliable also. I like the dual injection GDI models, which are 2017 or 18 depending on which engines or models. The 3.7 makes about 300hp @6500, and the 6R trans is stronger than all of the four speeds.

I don't know how any of the late V6's would fit the 1st gens, but I bet it could be as well or a better chance to fit, than the 2nd gens. I hope to find out eventually when I get caught up on things, I'll need a spare that I'm not using to work with. But the cost I see, could be $4k to $5k, depending on who builds the trans and fabricates any of the parts.

I suggest pricing the upgrades you have thought of, and consider that cost versus a late engine dropped in, low mileage, stock, and maybe see 25mpg highway.
You nailed it on the head. Cost vs performance gained is really what matters. But you brought up hollow push rods lifters with oiling holes and the roller rockers. That should be a must have for every 4.0 ohv. I will atleast be doing pushrods n lifters when I go to replace mine.
 






The plan will be:
New 95tm/ported 98tm heads on 94 block
Unsure of 410 or 422 cam.
1.8 roller rockers
Hollow pushrods
lifters with oil hole
M328 Oil pump
Gasket match upper and lower light porting
Gasket match lower to heads light porting
3” Fresh air intake
Headers. Can the coated be wrapped?
Underdrive crank pulley
Electric fan
Saginaw pump from Jeep Liberty
I wouldn't go under drive pulley. If your running electric fan it's gonna pull 35 amps bare minimal and the stock alt are only like 90 amps. I would go electric water pump and electric fan with stock balancer and run a idler should free a couple of ponies as long as it's not straining the alt which would load the engine down. Benefit is maximum cooling independent of engine rpm. So offroading you can be ice cold. 422 cam is what I have heard recommended the most and you already have to do valve springs with the roller rockers kit.
 






FYI, you can use any 3G alternator from the later Explorers, those are 130 amps. I had a 99 unit in my 91 when the old one died.
 






FYI, you can use any 3G alternator from the later Explorers, those are 130 amps. I had a 99 unit in my 91 when the old one died.
This is good info i didn’t know. Is it only the Limited’s?
 



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I wouldn't go under drive pulley. If your running electric fan it's gonna pull 35 amps bare minimal and the stock alt are only like 90 amps. I would go electric water pump and electric fan with stock balancer and run a idler should free a couple of ponies as long as it's not straining the alt which would load the engine down. Benefit is maximum cooling independent of engine rpm. So offroading you can be ice cold. 422 cam is what I have heard recommended the most and you already have to do valve springs with the roller rockers kit.
The electric fan i found pulls 18 amps at full load. 3300 cfm. Planned to get a 130 amp alt and let the local shop work their manic on it. Not worried about cooling it. A/c has me worried. More rpm=colder ac?
 






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