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Semi Metallic brake pads vs Ceramic

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Drewmcg

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Strange. How does wear pattern compared with other rear wheel?
 
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MrPulldown

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Nope the correct size. You can see the portion of the pad that is not contacting well. Not the first time I have seen wear like this. The fronts were like this. Occasionally on the inside of over worked rotor on other cars. Since all for corners were like this I would assume the previous rotors were low quality and or over worked

As to how they get that way? Maybe flex in the backing plate of the pad. Could be some thermo expansion thing. A disk or a circular plate when heated expands funny. Glazes a portion of the disk first.???
20171105_150737.jpg
 
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MrPulldown

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Rear diff drain is 3/4" square!!! WTF. My first Ford that I have worked on regularly. Just a little different than the Japenese autos I typical wrench.

Got gear oil all over me. Stink!!!!
 
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swshawaii

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Same here with rear rotors. Replaced calipers, correct MX667A pads, hoses, and multiple flushes with no improvement. All stainless hardware and contact surfaces are clean and lubed with specific brake grease. Rotor lateral run out measures within spec, but both will likely be replaced next. I don't worry about it too much since it's "only" rears, although I experienced a burning metallic smell and very hot right wheel recently. Baffling. Would be great to see you solve this, I'll be watching.

7XvnEWL.jpg
FydNxzE.jpg
EWjHArZ.jpg
cMownLd.jpg
 
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hlg99

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Are the pads binding up on the sliders maybe?
 
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TechGuru

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Mbrooks420

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That's one reason I always fully strip the slide pins and polish and grease then.
 
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Drewmcg

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Same here, except only the rear rotors. Replaced calipers, correct MX667A pads, hoses, and multiple flushes with no improvement. All stainless hardware and contact surfaces are clean and lubed with specific brake grease. Rotor lateral run out measures within spec, but both will likely be replaced next. I don't worry about it too much since it's "only" the rears, although I experienced a burning metallic smell and very hot right wheel recently. Baffling. Would be great to see you solve this mystery, I'll be watching.

7XvnEWL.jpg
FydNxzE.jpg
EWjHArZ.jpg
cMownLd.jpg
These photos do not look nearly as severe as OP's experience, to my eye. I'm with Techguru: more likely a caliper issue (bad rebuilds?) than a rotor or pad one.
 
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swshawaii

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^ TWO defective rebuilds? Possible, but not likely. Replaced with NAPA Total Eclipse calipers that are basically black powder coated Cardone's who seem to supply them to most other brands that rebox them. All slider pins move like butter, only other possibility I can think of would be a binding piston. Scored another set of Wagner MX667A pads through Amazon for $7.77 shipped that should arrive today. I'll do a pad slap and take some pics of the old pad wear.
 
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MrPulldown

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Slide pin is great shape. The fronts I pulled, cleaned, polished and greased up. The rears were really free sliding. Pulled back the boot and took a peek. packed full of newish grease. Didn't touch them. The pistons compressed back fine. No funny angle. The brakes are working great now. THe fronts have been on for about 5K and still look great.

They were making a little noise after my first bed in run. I advanced the e brake a bit but I think too much and they were touching on hard braking. I guess with an auto the e brakes do not get used much and thus no wear. Backed it off some and fine. Went through an pushed the slide around and the piston too. Everything works as it should.

We'll see how these wear.
 
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swshawaii

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MrPulldown

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Slightly off topic, but curious. Anyone know why the double "notch" on the pads should be positioned UP?

Posted this question years ago on EF without an answer, and I've been racking my brain ever since. LOL

This was one of the "humm must be a ford thing" when I came across it. You can't install the pads the other way. Some pads are all the same. However the EX rears have an inside and outside, and thus a right and a left. You also don't typically see part of the knuckle as an integral part of the braking system. And because of that the slide pins are part of the mount and tiny cause the braking force is transmitted to the knuckle, not the mounting bolts. Well not really, the slide pins are hollow and the mounting bolts run through the middle. I found that to be weird.
 
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swshawaii

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Could swear I initially had the notches on the bottom when I was replacing pads years ago. I realize there is a left and right because of the spring clips for the piston bores. I'll put this to bed when I swap pads today. Thanks for the explanation. :thumbsup:
 
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MrPulldown

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Could swear I initially had the notches on the bottom when I was replacing pads years ago. I realize there is a left and right because of the spring clips for the piston bores. I'll put this to bed when I swap pads today. Thanks for the explanation. :thumbsup:
You are right, you can have the double notch facing down (the wrong way). But you can't have the L/R mixed up if you have the notch pointing in the right direction.

Also what type of pads were these? Ceramic/Semi-Metallic/Organic ?
I am going to assume the old pads were semi M due to how worn the rotors are. ?? Don't know the history. I replaced with semi M cause I want more bite.
 
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SKI NUT

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I just had a set of Power Stop brakes put on my '03 XLT back in June. Ceramic pads, rotors, and calipers. Got the kit off Rock Auto for ~$330 shipped, after a 6% forum discount.

I just use the Explorer for driving around, no towing...these brakes are great. Especially given the price I paid for everything.

I do stick to OEM stuff on my Mustang GT. Just had those done last week; rotors and pads.
I installed the Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads. I yank a 4,300 boat around and wanted rotors that won’t warp when I make a hard stop. So far they’ve been excellent.
 
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