Shoc remanufactured engine with pre oiler timing guide reliability | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Shoc remanufactured engine with pre oiler timing guide reliability

donalds

Elite Explorer
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Stem
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Nc
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 ford explorer sohc
So a few months ago I installed a remanufactured engine
It has cloys timing components
I understand that the guides are not the problem
When the tensioners start to fail then they will slap around then breaking the guides
Making a startup rattle ...guides breaking...
I installed a pre oiler on the old engine to temporarily cure startup rattle and it did cure it
I re installed the pre oiler on the new engine
Will this cure the problem permanently or just help?
I get around 30 psi oil pressure before I start the engine
That means the tensioners are pumped up bearings are floating cams crank ...etc
I am pretty sure this will cure it permanently
Plus that engine never sees over 3000 rpm ...my lovely wife loves her truck and baby granny drives it
The pre oiler dumps about a qt of oil starting at 60 psi by the time the gauge in the dash pops up I have holding 30psi on the engine I get about 20 seconds of time to start the engine be for the pre oilers tank runs out of oil hehe

Do y'all think with this system in place the timing components will last ANY opinions will be grateful
 



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Pre oiling the engine, particularly the hydraulic tensioners will definitely prolong the life of the timing components plus the other benefits you mentioned.

I've had a pre oiler on my Sport Trac for over 2 years and never had a rattle.

In my humble opinion this is the best modification you could make to save the sohc from any timing component problems, happy motoring!
 






Pre oiling the engine, particularly the hydraulic tensioners will definitely prolong the life of the timing components plus the other benefits you mentioned.

I've had a pre oiler on my Sport Trac for over 2 years and never had a rattle.

In my humble opinion this is the best modification you could make to save the sohc from any timing component problems, happy motoring!

^ I agree. I've been doing a "poor man's" version of pre-oiling system before starting my '01 Sport Trac SOHC for 3 years now (cranking the engine with the starter motor while holding the accelerator to the floor for a few seconds) to get oil into the hydraulic tentioners before allowing the engine to start. So far so good. No rattling or SOHC staring flare at start-up. I have a slight rattle while running due to a broken jack shaft tensioner.

BTW - I've had my lower oil pan off several times and have never found any broken TC pieces in it. However, replacing my tensioners with new Motorcraft tensioners did nothing to reduce/eliminate the start-up rattling w/out getting oil into the tensioner first. If my ST wasn't such a POS/lemon I would build a real pre-oiler for it. I like the truck, but it's been nothing but problems since I resurrected it from the dead.
 






[QUOTE="koda2000, . No rattling or SOHC staring flare at start-up. .[/QUOTE]

Mine with a new and old engine has startup flare
why is that is it something I should worry about
Or is it normal
I can see how the flare would wear on the guides with the tensioners not pumped up
 












The start-up flare is normal (Ford's way of trying to get oil pressure up in the tensioners ASAP) but it's always made be cringe. It just doesn't seem like a good idea ti start a cold engine and immediately rev it up to 3000 RPM. I'm happy to get around that.
 






Wish I could program it out with forscan
 






Wish I could program it out with forscan

If your pre-oiling the engine before starting you shouldn't have the starting flare. It based on low/no oil pressure when starting.
 






If your pre-oiling the engine before starting you shouldn't have the starting flare. It based on low/no oil pressure when starting.
It has oil pressure I'd say about 30 I put a pressure gage on the pre oiler plus the gauge on the dash is up when I turn the key

It does it more on cold start I was thinking temp
 






It has oil pressure I'd say about 30 I put a pressure gage on the pre oiler plus the gauge on the dash is up when I turn the key

It does it more on cold start I was thinking temp

I don't think temp has anything to do with it. I've had 3 SOHC's and none of them would flare as long as they had some oil pressure up. My first start of the day requires a few seconds more cranking then successive starts.
 






I don't know it does have pressure be for I turn the key is there another pressure sender I don't know about
The factory sender is just a switch rite ?
On or off
If 30 psi ant enough then idk
 






Ok so I did a little bit of research on the flare
From what I can tell
The iac is commanded full open on startup
When the car starts then the pcm uses the air intake temp
Coolant temp
And crank sensor speed
To close the iac in steps
When at about 175 f it will idle at 700rpm

I just confirmed this with forscan
I was watching the pid s I talked about above in oscilloscope mode
And you can see the temp and iac in sync temp goes up iac closes in till it all levels out

When I restart it while up to temp the pcm works the same way but the coolant temp is hot so the iac is commanded to 20 percent almost instantly

I got the idea to look at it on forscan in the mustang forums they don't like the flare / high idle to
They use a restrictor plate mod to fix this
But there are cons

Here is the plate

s-l400 (1).jpg


Any input or opinions are all welcome
 






I am gonna tear apart a old ford iac and see if there is a adjustment of some kind to limit the full open of the iac mechanically
 






Under the silicone is a spring & screw, it can be adjusted. I found tightening it reduced the flare. Try it but make sure you seal it back up or you may get an air leak.
 






Under the silicone is a spring & screw, it can be adjusted. I found tightening it reduced the flare. Try it but make sure you seal it back up or you may get an air leak.

Do you mean the metal plug on the back
I pulled it and found a screw and spring and o ring
I marked it and screwed it all the way in counting the turns the factory setting is 3.5 turns out

Is that the screw and can I turn it in all the way
It seems the screw only adds spring force to close close the valve
But
If you say turn it in all the way the valve solenoid
Can still have full range of movement just with more force closing it ...not all the way ...
 






Interesting about the IAC adjustment, never knew that was a thing.

I’d think preoiling with a rebuilt motor will make it likely that the motor will outlast the typical life of the truck. Never revving above 3,000 won’t help the timing comments I don’t think. It will possibly carbon up the motor. I’d make sure to take it out every few weeks and bounce it off the rev limiter.
 






Also, on a side note I tried pre-oiling my 5.0....... No go. The motor started and reved out. Probably the cable is stretched enough it’s not reading WOT.
 






Interesting about the IAC adjustment, never knew that was a thing.

I’d think preoiling with a rebuilt motor will make it likely that the motor will outlast the typical life of the truck. Never revving above 3,000 won’t help the timing comments I don’t think. It will possibly carbon up the motor. I’d make sure to take it out every few weeks and bounce it off the rev limiter.
I'm gonna show her your post she won't believe me when I tell her to give it a workout once and awhile
 






I banged the limiter on both of mine, daily, and haven’t ever had a single motor issue. It’s set conservatively.
 



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Carbon buildup used to be an issue with carb'd engines with weak ignition systems. With today's computer controlled/monitored fuel injected engines carbon should not be an issue unless your O2 sensors need replacing. Ever find any sign of carbon buildup on a computer controlled fuel injected engine's spark plugs? I haven't, assuming the O2 sensors are working properly. Regularly rev'ing the snot out of an old engine can't do it any good IMO. Beating on an engine with 200,000 miles (or more) is just asking for trouble.

I typically crank my 2001 5.0L EB's engine to build oil pressure before letting it start, but that's because it may sit garaged for a month or more w/out being started.
 






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