Should I or Shouldn't I while do bearings?? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Should I or Shouldn't I while do bearings??

AlaskanJack

Elite Cabin-Fever Captain
Joined
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City, State
Centralia, Washington
Year, Model & Trim Level
91 , 93 & 01 Sports
Ok so here I go. I made myself the promise that when I got this trail rig that I would do all the work on it myself. So while fixing my brake problem I discovered I had a broken hub and my rotor is just wobbling loose.

I have never done anything other than brake pads and shoe replacement so this is getting into untested waters for me. I have acquired a 91-92 and 91-98 Haynes manual, a 1991 Truck Shop Manual Supplement and a 1991 EVTM. I also got the CD service manual and complete vehicle part number list.

So with these references and my newly acquired $400 Napa rolling mechanics toolbox and tools I get started.

My question is when I go to replace the inner and outer bearings is there any service to do to the hub portion of the axle? How do I pack the bearings with grease? I think I've seen some kits at Schuck's for packing bearings, but are they necessary? Regarding the bearings that are pressed in can I press the new ones in or should I run the rotors to a machine shop for turning, or buy new rotors, and either way have them press the new bearings in?

So next since I will have to do both sides how do I check the upper and lower ball joints for wear? I can't remember if its lifting the tire up? I was planning on replacing all bushings and ball joints in the near future, but since I'm half-way there with the bearing replacement I'll see if they are worn and whether my wallet can afford it.

For my broken hub I am going to just pick up a used one at the salvage yard and then in a few months get a set or Warn manual hubs.
 



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Wheel bearings are pretty easy, and I would go ahead and buy one of the bearing packer....Its a lot less messy on your hands.

The bearings are not pressed in the races are pressed into the rotors, but when you buy a new rotor the races are usually already pressed in(been that way the 2 times I bought rotors for my X)

Ball joints are kind of a beeotch, but you can do them yourself.

oh ya to check the ball joints lift one of the tires off the ground. Now put one hand ontop of the tire and one on the bottom of the tire and if you cant rock it back and for or wobble it around, you should replace them.

Ryan
 






Ok I understand the races are pressed in. Can I do this myself if I just get my rotors machined or if I choose to not machine them. I don't think I can afford to get new rotors now unless I have to. But I will soon so I don't even want to have rotors machined since they will be replaced within 3 months. What would a shop charge to press the races in?
 






If your going to replace the rotors in a couple months I wouldn't sweat machining them. As for the races, you can replace them yourself. When you look inside the rotor you'll notice there is a small gap between the races. To remove the old race, take a drift punch and place it on the lip of the race you want to remove (the race you are removing should be facing away from you). Take your BFH and drive the race out (alternate placement of the punch to drive the race out). Once it falls out, flip the rotor over and place the new race in the hole. Take the old race and use it to drive the new race in.
 






Is it nescessary to even replace the race.....I can see replacing it if there is damage to it but other than that I would bother
 






Well then why do all new wheel bearing kits come with new races?

I bought new wheel bearings before I pulled the old ones out. I read a thread where they just repacked the bearings and put them back in. I'm assuming that the bearings were just fine though. In my case I think the bearings are shot since my rotor is wobbling pretty good.


By the way I bought something to press the races in, but if I don't need to replace them I won't. Also how do you guys pack your bearings? I found 2 kits. One is used with a grease gun to force the old out and new in. The other was a syringe type and you shoot the grease in. Are there any other ways to pack these?

Also if the outer bearings go thenh usually do both inner and outer get replaced?
 






Well I'm learning a lot. I had to buy a new rotor and knuckle. Inner bearing was just obliterated and I found maybe 3-4 bearings. The rotor wore about 1/4 inch off the knuckle where the rear brake pad slides across.

So I finally found my knuckle sitting on a shelf at salvage yard. I had to press the old ball joints out. Now I am wondering my old ball joints appear to be good. Should I just be safe and replace them while putting the new knuckle on? Can I even re-use the ones coming off the damaged knuckle once I press them out?
 






Here is what happened to my knuckle from the rotor rubbing on it.
 

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