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Should I Sell My 2007 Mountaineer

il66pony

Active Member
Joined
October 8, 2015
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City, State
Hawthorn Woods, Illinois
Year, Model & Trim Level
2007 Mountaineer
I have a 2007 Mountaineer Premier AWD V8 That just turned 100,000 miles. Had it since new. I love this car due to sitting up high, the V8 And it does not have all the electronics that new SUVs have. Give me blind spot monitors and I am good. I had the spark plugs done at 80k, new brakes at 90 k and new tires just 5k miles ago. It is in virtually showroom condition.

Anyway, I need new lower ball joints which I asked about in another post and yes, at 100,000 that is probably right. So the question is what else might be normal wear items that need to be fixed in the next 20k miles? I am only putting about 5k miles on it a year.

Any advice is appreciated.
 



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I would keep it and make the normal repairs and maintenance one would on a 100k 4th gen Explorer/Mountaineer. The main reason is the drive train in your model being a V8 makes it very reliable if maintained. Especially since you are the original owner and know its history. The biggest thing to do now apart from the ball joints is fluid maintenance. The most important maintenance items to do right away would be a coolant flush, transmission pan drop/replace filter/refill (do not do a transmission flush) and transfer case fluid drain/refill. Then follow up over the next 10k miles with front/rear differential oil drain/refill, brake fluid replacement and power steering system flush. Don't rely on Ford's recommended service intervals for fluids as they are ridiculously long for the items I referenced. Then do a transmission pan drop and transfer case drain/refill every 30k-40k miles going forward. This, and 5k oil changes, should let you get many, many more miles out of the vehicle's drive train. Also, change the original 20 psi radiator cap to one rated for 16 psi. Many here have done this with no issues (including myself) and it will likely prevent some cooling system failures going forward. This is due to 20% less operating pressure in the cooling system unnecessarily stressing these components. The 16 psi cap can be bought here for around $15: 16 psi radiator cap . You can change it yourself when the engine is cold.

There are other items that can need replaced like a wheel bearing, or two, over the next 100k miles. Radiators is another but the radiator cap replacement might prevent this from occurring. The good thing is your model of Mountaineer with the V8 is very reliable overall. Most repairs you will see will be less than a monthly car payment on a well optioned new full size SUV (assuming your Mountaineer is paid off). Plus, the 2006-2010 Explorers and Mountaineers are the last ones to be share the same drive train and frame as the F150 pickup truck and is more robust than the newer models.

I opted to buy the 2010 V8 Mountaineer I have now over a 5th gen Explorer because they had engine reliability issues and engineering design I did not care for. I instead bought a 100k mile V8 Mountaineer loaded with all options in very good condition overall. I knew it needed a new radiator, tires and the maintenance done that I listed which cost me around $2k on top of a purchase price of $6.5k. It drives like a dream and I am very glad I bought it. So my advice it to keep it, maintain it and do the reasonable repairs likely needed to keep it going. You should get another 100k miles from it easily if you do the maintenance I suggested and the repairs that are typically needed over the next 100k miles.

Lastly, the only reason I would say to sell it is if it has severe rust occurring in the body panels or undercarriage. I notice you are located in Illinois where this could be an issue. I grew up in Indiana and the salt they apply to the roads in winter could do a lot of damage to cars.
 






Better the devil you know...

Unless you are going to purchase a (reliable) new car, you’re probably better off with what you have.
 






I would keep it and make the normal repairs and maintenance one would on a 100k 4th gen Explorer/Mountaineer. The main reason is the drive train in your model being a V8 makes it very reliable if maintained. Especially since you are the original owner and know its history. The biggest thing to do now apart from the ball joints is fluid maintenance. The most important maintenance items to do right away would be a coolant flush, transmission pan drop/replace filter/refill (do not do a transmission flush) and transfer case fluid drain/refill. Then follow up over the next 10k miles with front/rear differential oil drain/refill, brake fluid replacement and power steering system flush. Don't rely on Ford's recommended service intervals for fluids as they are ridiculously long for the items I referenced. Then do a transmission pan drop and transfer case drain/refill every 30k-40k miles going forward. This, and 5k oil changes, should let you get many, many more miles out of the vehicle's drive train. Also, change the original 20 psi radiator cap to one rated for 16 psi. Many here have done this with no issues (including myself) and it will likely prevent some cooling system failures going forward. This is due to 20% less operating pressure in the cooling system unnecessarily stressing these components. The 16 psi cap can be bought here for around $15: 16 psi radiator cap . You can change it yourself when the engine is cold.

There are other items that can need replaced like a wheel bearing, or two, over the next 100k miles. Radiators is another but the radiator cap replacement might prevent this from occurring. The good thing is your model of Mountaineer with the V8 is very reliable overall. Most repairs you will see will be less than a monthly car payment on a well optioned new full size SUV (assuming your Mountaineer is paid off). Plus, the 2006-2010 Explorers and Mountaineers are the last ones to be share the same drive train and frame as the F150 pickup truck and is more robust than the newer models.

I opted to buy the 2010 V8 Mountaineer I have now over a 5th gen Explorer because they had engine reliability issues and engineering design I did not care for. I instead bought a 100k mile V8 Mountaineer loaded with all options in very good condition overall. I knew it needed a new radiator, tires and the maintenance done that I listed which cost me around $2k on top of a purchase price of $6.5k. It drives like a dream and I am very glad I bought it. So my advice it to keep it, maintain it and do the reasonable repairs likely needed to keep it going. You should get another 100k miles from it easily if you do the maintenance I suggested and the repairs that are typically needed over the next 100k miles.

Lastly, the only reason I would say to sell it is if it has severe rust occurring in the body panels or undercarriage. I notice you are located in Illinois where this could be an issue. I grew up in Indiana and the salt they apply to the roads in winter could do a lot of damage to cars.
Thanks for the comprehensive reply! Zero rust. I bought it after I retired. Almost never gets driven when the roads are wet with snow and salt. If I have plans and it nasty out, I change my plans. Paid it off nine years ago after a 5 year 0% loan. To replace it, it will take 10k down and a $800/month for 4-5 year fairly low interest loan. Looking at a Palisade. Money isn't really an issue. It is just hard to part with something I love for something I am not all that excited about. Wish Ford still put V8s in Explorers as I love their looks. No way I am going with a V6 or I4.
 






Thanks for the comprehensive reply! Zero rust. I bought it after I retired. Almost never gets driven when the roads are wet with snow and salt. If I have plans and it nasty out, I change my plans. Paid it off nine years ago after a 5 year 0% loan. To replace it, it will take 10k down and a $800/month for 4-5 year fairly low interest loan. Looking at a Palisade. Money isn't really an issue. It is just hard to part with something I love for something I am not all that excited about. Wish Ford still put V8s in Explorers as I love their looks. No way I am going with a V6 or I4.
I really don't like the move by many vehicle manufacturers toward small displacement turbocharged engines as a substitute for V8s. They will be hella expensive to repair when the turbos go out. The cost to maintain them when they reach 100k miles will likely "repair total" them when they reach a point where they are severely depreciated after 10-12 years.

It sounds like you can cover about any typically expected repair on you 2007 easily. If you had a V6 model then my advice would have been different because the engine/transmission in them can be major repair expenses after 100k miles. The V8 model you have should just need the typical things like wheel bearings, maybe a radiator, coils etc. if you do the fluid maintenance regime I referenced.
 






Keep it !
There are 4 of us in the household, 4 drivers so 4 cars.
Wife's '11 Murano drives maybe the nicest, passenger room is very good, rear trunk so so ... due to nice curves that cut down the cargo room, overall super comfy vehicle.
My son's 06 Tundra double cab (crew cab) still very solid and well built truck at 170k miles.
My 12 F-150 super crew Lariat, maybe the most modern but it's not for everyone. Mileage is poor as expected, and parking it is a challenge,always.
Whenever I have to borrow my 06 Exp with the v8 from daughter who was inherited it, I am amazed how well this car drives and how versitile it is. Passenger room is perfect, seating position very good, cargo space amazing for its size due to being very "right angle" body style. Parts are cheap, you don't need a Microsoft engineer to fix it or diagnose it. And I put almost 300k miles on it. At 100k miles regular stuff will need to be replaces but that will be the case with any new or used car, things just wear out.

It's still the family favorite car, kids grew with it, it took us across many states on family vacations and never let us down or if it did I could fix it on a camp site with parts from AutoZone. Try it with new cars....
Keep it.
 






Pictures of your ex would be nice
 






I have a 2007 Mountaineer Premier AWD V8 That just turned 100,000 miles. Had it since new. I love this car due to sitting up high, the V8 And it does not have all the electronics that new SUVs have. Give me blind spot monitors and I am good. I had the spark plugs done at 80k, new brakes at 90 k and new tires just 5k miles ago. It is in virtually showroom condition.

Anyway, I need new lower ball joints which I asked about in another post and yes, at 100,000 that is probably right. So the question is what else might be normal wear items that need to be fixed in the next 20k miles? I am only putting about 5k miles on it a year.

Any advice is appreciated.
have ypu seen the price of a new one 40 to 80k if you have done proper maintance you should get another 100k
and e ven if you need to do the timing chane it only a few months payments. and while you dont have the envo center to me its a plus thats one of the biggest complaints on new cars i have a 99 ohv v6 5sp in thinking of putting a clutch in it and put back on road. had a 03 ohc 200k
and was used heavly and not maintained i bought it temp ran a year found a clean 04 took parts off the 3 to fix some things and junked it for more than i bought it .
 






I have a 2007 Mountaineer Premier AWD V8 That just turned 100,000 miles. Had it since new. I love this car due to sitting up high, the V8 And it does not have all the electronics that new SUVs have. Give me blind spot monitors and I am good. I had the spark plugs done at 80k, new brakes at 90 k and new tires just 5k miles ago. It is in virtually showroom condition.

Anyway, I need new lower ball joints which I asked about in another post and yes, at 100,000 that is probably right. So the question is what else might be normal wear items that need to be fixed in the next 20k miles? I am only putting about 5k miles on it a year.

Any advice is appreciated.
I like my older cars and use google to find add-ons to help me or how to fix something that has me baffled. I had two older explores, a 1997 AWD with a V-8 and a 2001 Sport with a V-6 (no turbo). I see the difference in power but the wife loves hers because the grand-kids can't open the back doors and it has all the bells and whistles. Both have over 200K miles on them with no major things breaking beyond wear and tear (the 2001 with 278K need trans rebuilt)

I Googled "aftermarket blind spot monitors' and had about 1500 results. Not knowing how good you are mechanically will leave that up to you, but have fond this link to be a good source when I am looking at something to determine basic complexity (Not even I am comfortable fixing/adding everything) 10 Easy (and Cheap) Ways to Add New Tech To Your Old Car | AGirlsGuidetoCars | Active Safety Features
 






I like my older cars and use google to find add-ons to help me or how to fix something that has me baffled. I had two older explores, a 1997 AWD with a V-8 and a 2001 Sport with a V-6 (no turbo). I see the difference in power but the wife loves hers because the grand-kids can't open the back doors and it has all the bells and whistles. Both have over 200K miles on them with no major things breaking beyond wear and tear (the 2001 with 278K need trans rebuilt)

I Googled "aftermarket blind spot monitors' and had about 1500 results. Not knowing how good you are mechanically will leave that up to you, but have fond this link to be a good source when I am looking at something to determine basic complexity (Not even I am comfortable fixing/adding everything) 10 Easy (and Cheap) Ways to Add New Tech To Your Old Car | AGirlsGuidetoCars | Active Safety Features
I think all cars have rear child locks now.
 












The sport is a two-door vehicle... no child locks ;)
I’m aware, I had one. My point was that children opening the rear doors hasn’t been a concern for 20 years or more.
 






I’m aware, I had one. My point was that children opening the rear doors hasn’t been a concern for 20 years or more.
But not everyone has a newer than 20 years old vehicle... my newest vehicle is 20 years old (1967, 1997, 2001). And they have to be turned on or set on unless they have changed.
 






But not everyone has a newer than 20 years old vehicle... my newest vehicle is 20 years old (1967, 1997, 2001). And they have to be turned on or set on unless they have changed.
So I guess it’s more convenient to just not have the doors than flip a lever.....

20 years was very conservative. I’ve never owned a 4 door that didn’t have them.
 






Honestly, whether its time is up to you. We just traded in our 2007 Explorer since the body cancer has set in hard. Ford did a good job disguising it with flares on the wheel wells , etc... but the garage floor is now stained with rust, my last repairs involved rusty, broken suspension bolts, and it isn't going to get any better. I bought the V8 based on past experience with the modular V8's and I liked having the 6R60 transmission as well. As it turned out, the plugs were no fun, and it became the most maintenance needy of my fleet. The list included the plug replacements (including the tools for broken plugs, most of the coils, the radiator, the starter, ball joints, 2 rear wheel bearings, the front wheel bearings (twice), the rear springs and struts (one spring cracked), the transmission bulkhead connector, it ate batteries like clockwork at 3.5 years (could have been the aftermarket starter I guess), ball joints up front, a lot of interior bulbs burning out and being strange or odd replacements, the CD changer that ate CDs, and weather stripping on the windows that leaked constantly, and the heat was never good on the drivers side despite multiple attempts at repairs.

On top of that, in the driving ours does, it was getting 14.5-15 MPG on average. On the trip to trade it in, we got 19.4 MPG. The 2021 I replaced it with did 27 MPG on the return trip.

I've gotten over the fear of small turbo engines. I've had my 2016 F150 with the 2.7 for 5 years, and you won't pry it out of my hands anytime soon. It does everything the 2004 F150 it replaced did, just better.

Its your choice, but we are happy with our decision to move on...
 






I would definitely keep the one you have. It's a solid design.
 






Honestly, whether its time is up to you. We just traded in our 2007 Explorer since the body cancer has set in hard. Ford did a good job disguising it with flares on the wheel wells , etc... but the garage floor is now stained with rust, my last repairs involved rusty, broken suspension bolts, and it isn't going to get any better. I bought the V8 based on past experience with the modular V8's and I liked having the 6R60 transmission as well. As it turned out, the plugs were no fun, and it became the most maintenance needy of my fleet. The list included the plug replacements (including the tools for broken plugs, most of the coils, the radiator, the starter, ball joints, 2 rear wheel bearings, the front wheel bearings (twice), the rear springs and struts (one spring cracked), the transmission bulkhead connector, it ate batteries like clockwork at 3.5 years (could have been the aftermarket starter I guess), ball joints up front, a lot of interior bulbs burning out and being strange or odd replacements, the CD changer that ate CDs, and weather stripping on the windows that leaked constantly, and the heat was never good on the drivers side despite multiple attempts at repairs.

On top of that, in the driving ours does, it was getting 14.5-15 MPG on average. On the trip to trade it in, we got 19.4 MPG. The 2021 I replaced it with did 27 MPG on the return trip.

I've gotten over the fear of small turbo engines. I've had my 2016 F150 with the 2.7 for 5 years, and you won't pry it out of my hands anytime soon. It does everything the 2004 F150 it replaced did, just better.

Its your choice, but we are happy with our decision to move on...
Wow. I had my plugs done at 80k. They did the process to mitigate them breaking and none did. I got seven years out of the original battery and and just replaced it again last fall so I had six years on it. I had a front brake hose break at 7,000k miles as the tires was rubbing on it. Also had to replace a harness under the passenger seat that got chewed up. Other than fluids, that is the sum total of what has been done not including the ball joints needed now. And Zero rust hear in the Chicago area.
 






The plugs were done on mine twice. Once at 60,000 miles, and again at 150,000 miles. I broke three plugs at 150,000 miles. All of them were carboned in so bad, I'm amazed any of them came out without breaking...

You mentioned yours wasn't out in the bad weather in the winter much. Can't say the same for ours -we had it on winter tires and it was a reliable snow machine. The rockers in front of the drivers front door, at the corner in the drivers rear door, and the wheel well lips on both sides in the rear were all well on their way with rust - the corner had a hole in it at this point. My usual turning points for looking for a replacement are 180,000 miles and or 13 years. This one was 14 years ( didn't get driven as much with COVID), but it was time...
 






The rockers on the rear doors are in bad shape, I think that's pretty common.
For some reason the door rubber seal holds the water there. Every time I open rear door, water comes out from there.
 



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Honestly, whether its time is up to you. We just traded in our 2007 Explorer since the body cancer has set in hard. Ford did a good job disguising it with flares on the wheel wells , etc... but the garage floor is now stained with rust, my last repairs involved rusty, broken suspension bolts, and it isn't going to get any better. I bought the V8 based on past experience with the modular V8's and I liked having the 6R60 transmission as well. As it turned out, the plugs were no fun, and it became the most maintenance needy of my fleet. The list included the plug replacements (including the tools for broken plugs, most of the coils, the radiator, the starter, ball joints, 2 rear wheel bearings, the front wheel bearings (twice), the rear springs and struts (one spring cracked), the transmission bulkhead connector, it ate batteries like clockwork at 3.5 years (could have been the aftermarket starter I guess), ball joints up front, a lot of interior bulbs burning out and being strange or odd replacements, the CD changer that ate CDs, and weather stripping on the windows that leaked constantly, and the heat was never good on the drivers side despite multiple attempts at repairs.

On top of that, in the driving ours does, it was getting 14.5-15 MPG on average. On the trip to trade it in, we got 19.4 MPG. The 2021 I replaced it with did 27 MPG on the return trip.

I've gotten over the fear of small turbo engines. I've had my 2016 F150 with the 2.7 for 5 years, and you won't pry it out of my hands anytime soon. It does everything the 2004 F150 it replaced did, just better.

Its your choice, but we are happy with our decision to move on...
To be fair, just about any vehicle will suffer from severe rust if it is driven on heavily salted roads without doing any rust prevention measures such as Fluid Film every Fall. I don't know why people in these areas don't spend the $200-$300 and have their vehicles treated at least every two years. Or do it themselves for less than $50. IMO, excessive rusting due to salt and sand will cause a lot of repairs to be needed. It is hard on everything it comes into contact with. The aluminum panels in your 2016 F150 is good to have where you live but I would do a rust treatment like Fluid Film to the underside iron and steel components every year or it will eventually have many of the same issues as your 2007 Explorer. Also, good high temp nickel based anti-seize grease on the plugs (not on the threads) would keep the sticking from occurring.
 






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