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Should I??

Sabre13

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I found a 1996 Eddie Bauer Explorer. Guy says it has new breaks, radiator, power steering pump. 162k miles. Says there's no known issues and he's wanting $2,300. I've never owned an explorer and want to know if this is a good buy? Seems a bit pricey to me but like I said I'm new to explorers. I recently moved up north and would like a solid winter vehicle
 



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V6, no. V8, if it's rust free, and looks well taken care of, yes.
 












IIRC they didn't offer the V6 SOHC engine till '97, so I would still consider the V6 OHV engine IF everything else was good enough to offset that, or of course the V8.

On a vehicle that age, condition (and of course mechanical fitness) is everything, though you should look at other Explorers in the area to get an idea if the price per condition is competitive with other Explorers in your region.

Being up north, you should inspect it for rust, especially the rocker panel along the running boards and up the front of the rear wheel wells.

Although "no known issues" was stated, I'd still test EVERYTHING, including getting on some loose soil and putting it in 4WD since your stated purpose is winter (snow).
 






I'd not want anything to do with a 160k 4r55e or 4405.
 






IIRC they didn't offer the V6 SOHC engine till '97, so I would still consider the V6 OHV engine IF everything else was good enough to offset that, or of course the V8.

On a vehicle that age, condition (and of course mechanical fitness) is everything, though you should look at other Explorers in the area to get an idea if the price per condition is competitive with other Explorers in your region.

Being up north, you should inspect it for rust, especially the rocker panel along the running boards and up the front of the rear wheel wells.

Although "no known issues" was stated, I'd still test EVERYTHING, including getting on some loose soil and putting it in 4WD since your stated purpose is winter (snow).

Rocker panels were replaced which makes me believe there's probably rust else where. I've lived in the south my whole life so I'm new to the winter/rust issues. What's a good daily driver with winter capabilities around 3k?
 






^ Anything with 4WD or AWD and snow rated all-season tires, not necessarily winter rated seasonal tires unless you want to buy and swap 2 sets of tires every year, though their softer compound does do better on ice or hard pack snow.

If you happen to live on a long drive or private road that doesn't have municipal snow removal then you might also need some extra ground clearance provided by an SUV. Given how common Explorers are, that is in your favor for finding one in good condition at $3K or less, but you should definitely be able to find something newer than a '96 for under $3k from a private seller, with a V8.
 






Lots of good choices for a reliable winter vehicle. In the Explorer family a 98-01 V8 is the most stout you can get in the 3k range. Have a few common problems, but overall very reliable and forgiving drive train.

5 speed Rangers aren't bad.

Older Subarus are GREAT in the winter and can be super reliable if NOT the 2.5s.
 






^ Anything with 4WD or AWD and snow rated all-season tires, not necessarily winter rated seasonal tires unless you want to buy and swap 2 sets of tires every year, though their softer compound does do better on ice or hard pack snow.

If you happen to live on a long drive or private road that doesn't have municipal snow removal then you might also need some extra ground clearance provided by an SUV. Given how common Explorers are, that is in your favor for finding one in good condition at $3K or less, but you should definitely be able to find something newer than a '96 for under $3k from a private seller, with a V8.

Thank you! Yeah I was thinking that price was high given the year model.
 






Lots of good choices for a reliable winter vehicle. In the Explorer family a 98-01 V8 is the most stout you can get in the 3k range. Have a few common problems, but overall very reliable and forgiving drive train.

5 speed Rangers aren't bad.

Older Subarus are GREAT in the winter and can be super reliable if NOT the 2.5s.

I've had my eye on a Subaru but everyone here knows there worth so naturally they don't come very cheap. Any particular Subaru you would recommend?
 






Most wagons come with the 2.5. You are almost guaranteed to have headgasket issues with them, even if they have been done. Legacy sedans are more likely to have the 2.2s. I'd worry about the body more than the mileage. The 2.2s will outlast the body, even with poor maintenance. They tend to all drip oil. 2.2s do have timing belts, but are non interference so you can run them until they break.

If I got a steal on a 2.5 I'd run it until the headgaskets went, and I'd have a 2.2 in the garage ready to swap in. Easiest engine swap ever. You only need the motor and it can EASILY be done in a weekend. Zero wiring or computer changes. 100% plug and play.
 






That's some good information. Knew about the head gasket issues but was unaware of the motor swap being so easy. I'll see if I have any luck finding one if I can sift through all the damn spam on craigslist
 






I'm surprised to hear that someone actually spent the money to replace the rockers on one of these. The general consensus in my neck of the woods is that your vehicle WILL succumb to rust over time and there is little you can do about it; except, to not drive it in the winter. I know around here an older, rust-free vehicle is highly valued and will command a higher price. Be patient and try to find one that has had little exposure to winter's wrath. Maybe one that has been brought up from the South in recent years. I'd even strongly consider buying a Southern truck and shipping or driving it back north. Trust me...if you do your own repairs, the difference in working on a rust-free vehicle vs a rusty undercarriage is well worth spending some extra money.
 






You can even unbolt the AC compressor and set it the side, and not lose the freon charge. You can strip the 2.5 motor for a fair scrap value, as the block and heads are aluminum.
 






I'm surprised to hear that someone actually spent the money to replace the rockers on one of these. The general consensus in my neck of the woods is that your vehicle WILL succumb to rust over time and there is little you can do about it; except, to not drive it in the winter. I know around here an older, rust-free vehicle is highly valued and will command a higher price. Be patient and try to find one that has had little exposure to winter's wrath. Maybe one that has been brought up from the South in recent years. I'd even strongly consider buying a Southern truck and shipping or driving it back north. Trust me...if you do your own repairs, the difference in working on a rust-free vehicle vs a rusty undercarriage is well worth spending some extra money.
you can slap slip on rockers on one of these in a few hours for under 150. Very easy temporary fix.
 






Thank you! Yeah I was thinking that price was high given the year model.
Depends on how well it was taken care of. Someone who replaced rusted out rocker panels is a level above the average owner. Bluebook evaluation means very little once a vehicle gets past ~ 15 y/o. It's just that in this case, a few years and factory option differences mean more than the usual depreciation value would reflect.

I'm surprised to hear that someone actually spent the money to replace the rockers on one of these. The general consensus in my neck of the woods is that your vehicle WILL succumb to rust over time and there is little you can do about it; except, to not drive it in the winter.

I had mine replaced a few years ago when the cost was lower than the vehicle value. My evaluation at the time was that I couldn't get anything nicer for vehicle value + repair cost, keeping in mind that I had under 85K mi. at the time. Fortunately I've had no other body rust, just the usual rusted beyond salvage lower bolts, brake lines, exhaust shield welds, and soon will need to do some if not all of the exhaust. It's what I drive in snow, sacrificial vehicle that gets driven the rest of the year to give it some exercise so it wasn't sitting around unused for several months at a time, and any backup vehicle is good to have if you do your own repairs.

you can slap slip on rockers on one of these in a few hours for under 150. Very easy temporary fix.

What is the point of that? If it's only a cosmetic fix, you can grind a bit of rust away and slap on bondo and paint cheaper than $150, or by "slap" do you mean weld on?
 






What about the early 2000s sport tracs? Seem to be readily available around my area
 






I had mine replaced a few years ago when the cost was lower than the vehicle value. My evaluation at the time was that I couldn't get anything nicer for vehicle value + repair cost, keeping in mind that I had under 85K mi. at the time. Fortunately I've had no other body rust, just the usual rusted beyond salvage lower bolts, brake lines, exhaust shield welds, and soon will need to do some if not all of the exhaust. It's what I drive in snow, sacrificial vehicle that gets driven the rest of the year to give it some exercise so it wasn't sitting around unused for several months at a time, and any backup vehicle is good to have if you do your own repairs.



What is the point of that? If it's only a cosmetic fix, you can grind a bit of rust away and slap on bondo and paint cheaper than $150, or by "slap" do you mean weld on?
I pop riveted them on under the trim plates an body seams. I did it because it was easier, and more permanent than bonding, and the inspection man said I needed to do something.
 






I found a 1996 Eddie Bauer Explorer. Guy says it has new breaks, radiator, power steering pump. 162k miles. Says there's no known issues and he's wanting $2,300. I've never owned an explorer and want to know if this is a good buy? Seems a bit pricey to me but like I said I'm new to explorers. I recently moved up north and would like a solid winter vehicle

I'd say that's about $800-$1000 overpriced for a '96. Is it the OHV V6 or the V8? Both engines are quite reliable, but the V8 has more power and a better/stronger automatic transmission. The mileage is low for a '96, but unless the body and interior are in exception condition I wouldn't pay anywhere near $2300 for a '96. That things old enough to vote.

Gen II Explorer's have their weak points, but it depends on which engine it has to be more specific. The rest of the truck is pretty much the same other than the engine, trans and T-case, so either is likely to have the same relatively minor issues.

Most of us here do our own repairs and parts are inexpensive and readily available, but if you have to pay someone to fix the typical stuff that wears out or breaks it might turn out to be a money pit, especially if you're overpaying for it to begin with.
 



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I'd say that's about $800-$1000 overpriced for a '96. Is it the OHV V6 or the V8? Both engines are quite reliable, but the V8 has more power and a better/stronger automatic transmission. The mileage is low for a '96, but unless the body and interior are in exception condition I wouldn't pay anywhere near $2300 for a '96. That things old enough to vote.

Gen II Explorer's have their weak points, but it depends on which engine it has to be more specific. The rest of the truck is pretty much the same other than the engine, trans and T-case, so either is likely to have the same relatively minor issues.

Most of us here do our own repairs and parts are inexpensive and readily available, but if you have to pay someone to fix the typical stuff that wears out or breaks it might turn out to be a money pit, especially if you're overpaying for it to begin with.

It's a V6. I usually make any repairs myself. I've found some early 2000 V8 models in the same price range just waiting on replies/pics on rust.

Is there any other way to shop online other than craigslist? Seems like it's not what it once was
 






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