slave cylinder? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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slave cylinder?

Trapper14

Well-Known Member
Joined
January 7, 2001
Messages
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City, State
Horseheads, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
91 xl 2dr
is replacing the slave cylinder really necessary when replacing the clutch? I just saw the price of them and its HIGH!!!:eek: so I was wondering if it is pretty important or its just precautionary?
 



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IT SHOULD ONLY RUN YOU ABOUT ANOTHER 100 DOLLARS FOR THE PART MIGHT AS WELL DO IT WHILE THE TRANNYS OUT BECAUSE YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE IT AGAIN TO CHANGE IT LATTER ESPECIALLY IF YOU SEE ANY SIGN OF LEAKING OR SEEPAGE R&R TTRANSMISSION ABOUT 300 PLUS COST OF CLUTCH
 






I mean 100 bucks seems like alot
 






It's a $100 well spent, cause in 6 months you'll be paying $100 plus labor to go thru the whole process again. Save yourself the pain and $$$$ and perform the preventive maintenance for the extra $100.
 






I'm in agreement with the others. I'm in the process of replacing mine for the second time in my 92 Ranger. The throwout bearing on the Slave Cylinder tends to wear quickly. Both times, mine had corrosion on them. It seems a lot of moisture gets into the bellhousing. Napa has a complete clutch kit (minus pilot bearing) for 150.00. You may just need to replace the throwout bearing and not the whole slave cylinder. While you're down there, take a peek at your rear main seal. Carparts.com has the seal, crankshaft repair sleeve and sleeve installation tool. Better to spend the money now while you have access to everything, than to have to pull it all out later down the road. Good luck!
 






A couple more things......
Replace the rubber plugs behind the shifter if you haven't already done so. And if your shifter is really loose between gears, you can get a bushing kit from your local Trans shop. I spent 70.00 on my kit, but it's well worth it.
 






AIR: what do you mean if its loose between gears? how do you describe that?

I have already received my dual friction, and the throwout bearing. I simply have to go to napa or whereever and pick up the slave cylinder.

and what seal do you speak of, the one on the transmision, or the one between the transmission and clutch, I know that my trans is leaking between one gasket, I plan on using RTV blue gasket maker to seal that one up, and when I goto napa to pick up those plugs, how much are they and what do I ask for specifically?

Thanks alot!
 






For the shifter, mine was really loose while in neutral. It had a lot of play to the left and right. There are two plastic rings that break apart (usually falling into the tranny) and two metal rings. There will be two pins on each side to hold everything in. Where the shifter bolts to the tranny, you'll see 3 star bit screws. Take them out and pull the round cap off. You'll see the metal and plastic (if they are still there) rings. The shifter bushing kit will tighten everything back up like when it was new. The only place I could get this kit was a local tranny shop.
The seal I'm referring to is the rear main. You will have to pull the flywheel off to see it. Also, the pilot bearing will be easier to replace if you have it off. You can punch it out from the back of the flywheel.
There are three rubber plugs behind where your shifter bolts onto the tranny. You should replace these with metal ones. Dorman makes the plugs but I don't recall what the part number was. You should be able to find them doing a search. They are just basic "freeze" plugs.
Take a look at your old slave cylinder. You may not have to replace it. Usually just the throwout bearing goes bad. Just twist the old bearing off. There is not a lot to the actually slave cylinder that would make it bad.
One more thing, go ahead and replace the input shaft seal while you're in there. It's only a couple bucks. You'll see it when you take the slave cylinder.
Good luck.
 






The slave cylinder should be replaced while you're in there. The slave cylinders go bad quite often and when they start to go they take the tranny with.

Reason why is that they do not let the clutch disengage completely causing it to drag when you think it's disengaged. Then it makes it hard to shift into first and reverse when at a stop. Since it becomes difficult to shift you end up forcing the shifter handle bending the shift forks and wearing out the syncros. $100 now can save you $$$ later.
 






thanks alot for that rick, ok one more ?

you mention ed the pilot bearing?? what about it I have to get a new one?

new shaft seal

I doubt I will get the shifter kit thing because I don't think my shifter is uneccesarily loose.

and can rtv sealant be used on that rear seal?
 






yoohooo!
 






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