slip on rocker panels 98 Ex | Page 2 | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free! This box and some ads will disappear once registered!

  • Holiday Special! - 2 for 1 Elite Explorer sale!

    Right now you can purchase an Elite Explorer membership for $20 and receive a two year membership! If you have an existing Elite membership contact me by PM and I will upgrade your account manually.

    Click Here to start your membership and get rid of the ads!

slip on rocker panels 98 Ex

CDW6212R

Hauls the mail.
Elite Explorer
Joined
June 17, 2004
Messages
22,246
Reaction score
2,620
City, State
Knoxville, TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 Limited AWD
Yes! I will have to do the attachment with steel rivets over the body adhesive - What I don't have a picture of, is how the inner panel looks (when it's not rusted out). Is there any chance you could post a pic of your inner panel on the truck? Unless what pics you have posted, show it - don't know where the rocker ends and the inner panel starts. I will have to make one from sheet metal. No opportunity to get a welded repair. Any surface rust will then be scraped down, rust converter applied. Not sure if a paint coating over the rust converter is in order, or just Fluid Film. (I have to re-order that Fluid Film, USPS never delivered(although they claim it was) and the email form to claim lost package doesn't work, oh well) Thanks !
Most of the best pictures I have are in my linked project thread for my 99/93 truck, highlighted in my signature below. I didn't have much rust at all, and after brushing it all, I went over it with a rust product by Eastwood, and then under coat, with paint on the front clip that I went over it and the long new seam(seam sealer on that).

The last picture below shows a pocket of rust I went after from a prior repair(replaced quarter panel). That's the vertical front seam where the LR quarter panel overlaps the rocker. You can see the existing OEM seam line along the side, all Explorers should have that visible unless a body shop filled it with bondo.

Projectthread105.JPG Projectthread028.JPG Projectthread016.JPG
LR quarter repair.jpg
 


Holiday Special! Join the Elite Explorers $20 for 2 years! Gets rid of the ads!

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create and save more private conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.




Pete Deering

Well-Known Member
Joined
November 13, 2019
Messages
290
Reaction score
60
City, State
New England
Year, Model & Trim Level
1995 xlt 4 door 4x4
The blue is a cardboard template, that I used to shape a pattern for the new metal. It right after the front fender. I do not have running board, just trim.
I used clamp to hold everything in place; because I weld. Some people used self-drilling sheet metal screw. I don't know how you can used pop rivet and body Adhesive. I am assuming you'll be using 1/8 rivet. You have to pre drill the holes apply the Adhesive, place the panel where the holes line up. When I was looking into body Adhesive; people were using sheet metal screw. After it set they removed the screws. The inner panel is strengthen with a bead roller. You will see the pattern on the panel. You could used a small pipe and a vise and hammer too strengthen the panel. Good luck
 




J5hort

Active Member
Joined
February 25, 2018
Messages
72
Reaction score
7
City, State
South Easton
Year, Model & Trim Level
2008
1995
Yep. I did not like my plastic “tupperware” or my rusty rocker panels. So obtained 1/8 inch(?) thick steel 2x4s from a metal shop, and had a welder snap a line on the rockers just above the rust line, cut out the rusty rockers, and weld in the steel 2x4s on each side. The welder believes that the truck could be jacked up by the 2x4s, and that they could also serve as sliders. They are incredibly strong! Very Road Warrior.

View attachment 343110 View attachment 343112
Rock sliders! I need to do the same on my 95 Sport. Was thinking about leaving a space between steel tube and body sheetmetal...but I like the seamless look you have. May integrate some 1" square tube perpendicular to frame, but that was just to make removable. Any gussets or other steel used from these to the frame?
 




Mr. Alligator

Elite Explorer
Joined
November 30, 2014
Messages
1,018
Reaction score
576
City, State
Tampa, Florida
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 XLT Explorer
Rock sliders! I need to do the same on my 95 Sport. Was thinking about leaving a space between steel tube and body sheetmetal...but I like the seamless look you have. May integrate some 1" square tube perpendicular to frame, but that was just to make removable. Any gussets or other steel used from these to the frame?

Nothing else but the steel 2x4. I used 1/8 inch steel, and was concerned that would be sort of light. You could try even thicker metal, but this came out unbelievably strong. You could also use consecutive welds down each entire side. Mine had welds about every six to ten inches. The 2x4 fit perfectly, but you could try something wider. Snapping a chalk line for cutting out rusted rockers was critical. After completion, I ground the welds, primed, painted, and used seam sealer to finalize the edges. Finally, drilled fairly large holes in the underside of each 2x4 to ensure drainage. These things should not rust any time soon. Great to delete plastic covers, and great to delete rusted rockers, and great to avoid cheap slip-on rocker covers. I believe this is a very effective and good-looking option.

Good luck with your project.
 




J5hort

Active Member
Joined
February 25, 2018
Messages
72
Reaction score
7
City, State
South Easton
Year, Model & Trim Level
2008
1995
Nothing else but the steel 2x4. I used 1/8 inch steel, and was concerned that would be sort of light. You could try even thicker metal, but this came out unbelievably strong. You could also use consecutive welds down each entire side. Mine had welds about every six to ten inches. The 2x4 fit perfectly, but you could try something wider. Snapping a chalk line for cutting out rusted rockers was critical. After completion, I ground the welds, primed, painted, and used seam sealer to finalize the edges. Finally, drilled fairly large holes in the underside of each 2x4 to ensure drainage. These things should not rust any time soon. Great to delete plastic covers, and great to delete rusted rockers, and great to avoid cheap slip-on rocker covers. I believe this is a very effective and good-looking option.

Good luck with your project.
Thanks Alligator. Much appreciated. Got a few project ahead of it, but I'll keep any updates coming. Not interested in keeping stock, so this is a good mod for the 95 Sport.
 




Mike65

Elite Explorer
Joined
December 31, 2013
Messages
3,806
Reaction score
346
Location
In my garage working on one of our vehicles.
City, State
Horsepasture, Virginia.
Year, Model & Trim Level
00 Ranger 4x4, 99 Sport.
I repaired the outer & inner rocker panels on my wife's 99 Sport. I purchased the rocker panels from LMC truck , & purchased sheet steel to repair the inner rocker panels.
 




donalds

Elite Explorer
Joined
July 12, 2015
Messages
4,604
Reaction score
2,110
Location
Stem
City, State
Nc
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 ford explorer sohc
Nothing else but the steel 2x4. I used 1/8 inch steel, and was concerned that would be sort of light. You could try even thicker metal, but this came out unbelievably strong. You could also use consecutive welds down each entire side. Mine had welds about every six to ten inches. The 2x4 fit perfectly, but you could try something wider. Snapping a chalk line for cutting out rusted rockers was critical. After completion, I ground the welds, primed, painted, and used seam sealer to finalize the edges. Finally, drilled fairly large holes in the underside of each 2x4 to ensure drainage. These things should not rust any time soon. Great to delete plastic covers, and great to delete rusted rockers, and great to avoid cheap slip-on rocker covers. I believe this is a very effective and good-looking option.

Good luck with your project.
This is how I'd go about it if I had rust !
 




Top