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Slop with new r/f half shaft?

CannMan

New Member
Joined
November 12, 2014
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City, State
Oil City, Pa
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Ford Explorer XLT
Howdy!

I've got a 98 Explorer XLT 4.0/auto/4x4 with a myriad of issues.

Some have been addressed already, such as replacing both u-joints for the rear drive shaft as well as both joints on the prop shaft (front drive shaft, if you will).
The cv joints in the pass front were crappy, so I triple checked numbers and ordered a new one from Summit. Got it installed and now there is an issue.

I noticed a pretty intense vibration coming from that area after doing the install. Felt in both the wheel and floor/body. It seemed to be always present unless taking torque off the drive train (eg: coast or hit the brakes), so I got it back on the lift.

When I grabbed the bearing housing for the half shaft where it goes into the front axle, I noticed a pretty good amount (1/2" or so) of centrifugal "slop" or play. Mind you, this isn't the joint itself - it's the solid housing. Like it's loose on the internal shaft in the axle or something.

So I pulled it and checked it all out. Spline/tooth count matches and depth is fine. I stretched the c-clip a bit to assure a good connection and reinstalled. Still sloppy.

Grabbed the old one and reinstalled. The first thing that I noticed is that the old one went on/came out with quite a bit of resistance ... where the new one had none once past the c-clip.
The next thing is that the old one has zero centrifugal slop - none at all, like it should be. There is a bit of in-n-out play, but I believe that's normal.
So I took that one back out and we mic'd the shafts on both new and old - everything was the same. Wall thickness, tooth to tooth, overall depth, depth to c-ring groove ... everything. This makes no sense to me at all.
If they both mic out the same, how is the old one snug (as it should be) and the new one flopping around like a fish out of water? I know that's gonna beat the heck out of the seal and the vibrations will send shockwaves to all items both inboard and outboard - not good for either.
I did check to see if there was centrifugal movement of the internal shaft and there is absolutely zero.
This has me completely stumped and I don't want to drive any real distance until I get it figured. This thing already needs more work and parts, I don't want to add to that list ... I'm so poor I can't afford to pay attention much less keep putting parts into her. LOL

Any/all assistance would be greatly appreciated.

PS: I did do a search in the forums using several search term options then scanned the results but didn't see anything with this type of issue. I probably missed something though. :)

Peace,

CannMan
 



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It doesn't make sense. Is the axle bearing by chance coming out with the old shaft?

Bill
 






It doesn't make sense. Is the axle bearing by chance coming out with the old shaft?

Bill

I didn't see any bearing in there at all - nor on the old half-shaft.
I know there are a couple thrust washers back in the housing, a clutch collar too (I believe) - but the only thing visible from the outboard side where the half shaft goes in is the end of the drive shaft (that goes into the half-shaft) and the oil seal.
 






I'm kinda workin' by the seat of my pants here as I don't have a service manual for this, can't afford to purchase one just now and the only one I've found online for download is in spanish. :D
 






I have the same thing. Inside the front diff right side the axel shaft rides on very small bearings the seal seems to be what holds the cv shafy snug in the diff. I am replacing that right diff seal today in hopes that it will stop the slop .
I have a clunk on that side and have done everything.that sloppy cv is the only thing i can find.plus it is making the vac disconect not work i have a 95. I have opened this vac disconect cover and can se the slop causes just enough of an angle to not alow the sleve to move into place.The seal should be able to remove with out removing the inner diff axel it has a metal lip against the diff that could be separated with a flat screwdriver and hammer.i will post back later.
 






Put in the new seal, and no more slop. Still clunking found a bad control arm bushing, and 4wd works alot better.
 






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