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Smart Keys

Drg racr

Well-Known Member
Joined
November 18, 2006
Messages
261
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City, State
Dublin, Indiana
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 Explorer XLT 2WD
I need to get some keys made for both my Explorers. I have heard that aftermarket keys don't work very well. Is it true? The dealer wants $125/each to make keys. For 4 keys that's $500!!! I don't wanna redneck a cheap fix if I don't have to.
 



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I need to get some keys made for both my Explorers. I have heard that aftermarket keys don't work very well. Is it true? The dealer wants $125/each to make keys. For 4 keys that's $500!!! I don't wanna redneck a cheap fix if I don't have to.

I've bought 3 off ebay and one off Amazon. I don't recall what I paid for the ones off eBay because they included key fobs. I think around $16 for a key and 2 fobs. The one off Amazon was $10. They've all worked fine. The $10 off Amazon has the Ford logo, so I think its an OE key (?).

Keep in mind there are 2 styles of transponder keys. One has a square 'ish head and the other has a rounded head. The keys are not interchangeable (found out the hard way). My dealer used to charge $25 for a key (w/cutting) and $40 for programming. Now they're charging $65 for just programming.

You can also have a working key cloned for about $50 at Ace Hardware and some Walmarts, but having a cloned key will not allow you to program additional keys, which you can do yourself if you have 2 working non-cloned keys.
 












You can also have a working key cloned for about $50 at Ace Hardware and some Walmarts, but having a cloned key will not allow you to program additional keys, which you can do yourself if you have 2 working non-cloned keys.

I've had several keys duplicated at Walmart for $60 each, but the duplicate for my '01 Sport Trac sometimes doesn't want to start the truck - PATS seems to not recognize it. Everything else works with it. The battery in the key can be replaced, which I might try. This is a recent development, after 2 years of working just fine with regular use. My daughter's boyfriend said he had the same trouble with the duplicate key for her Sable.
 






I've had several keys duplicated at Walmart for $60 each, but the duplicate for my '01 Sport Trac sometimes doesn't want to start the truck - PATS seems to not recognize it. Everything else works with it. The battery in the key can be replaced, which I might try. This is a recent development, after 2 years of working just fine with regular use. My daughter's boyfriend said he had the same trouble with the duplicate key for her Sable.

Is that a standard key or one of the ones with the buttons? I didn't think a standard RFID key had a battery.
 






Keys on eBay are $10-$12, go to a local locksmith to get it cut for $10 or whatever. If you have two keys you can program a third. I bought my own key and had the local locksmith cut and program it. Only cost me $30 for cutting and programming. Now that I have two keys I can program them myself.

That dealer is ripping you off, any one with a second gen explorer HAS NO BUSINESS at a dealership. Independent shops in the US know literally everything about explorers and are MUCH more reasonable when it comes to rates and everything else. The only time you ever go to a dealer is if you have warranty or free oil changes.
 






Keys on eBay are $10-$12, go to a local locksmith to get it cut for $10 or whatever. If you have two keys you can program a third. I bought my own key and had the local locksmith cut and program it. Only cost me $30 for cutting and programming. Now that I have two keys I can program them myself.

That dealer is ripping you off, any one with a second gen explorer HAS NO BUSINESS at a dealership. Independent shops in the US know literally everything about explorers and are MUCH more reasonable when it comes to rates and everything else. The only time you ever go to a dealer is if you have warranty or free oil changes.

The last time I had a key cut/programmed, the locksimths in my area wanted a minimum of $50 to make a key (using my blank). At the time the dealership was $5 cheaper. At this point in time the locksmith may turn out to be less expensive as the dealership quoted me $60.

As far as the dealership's free oil changes, I've only had a dealership change my oil twice in my live. They f**k'd it up both times. One time they apparently changed the filter first, didn't tighten it enough and then put in 4 qts of oil w/out bothering to drain out the old oil first. I'm surprised the engine didn't go into hydraulic lock and blow it's seals out. As it was it puked oil out of everywhere. Thank goodness the filter was leaking badly. Made quite a mess on a car than was only a few months old. The second time they left the old oil filter gasket stuck on the engine and installed the new filter on top of the old gasket. I made it 2 blocks before it blew out (oil change 101).

I agree though, the only reason to the dealership fix anything is for warranty work. Even then, I typically have not have good experiences with dealership performed repairs.

Examples:
- One spark plug wire left disconnected
- No dash or tail lights on my way home after an electrical repair
- Broken transfer case shift motor housing after a torsion bar pad repair (denied their fault)
- Cracked windshield discovered upon vehicle pick up (denied their fault)
- Deep gouge discovered upon pick up on fiber glass clams-shell hood on a new Corvette (denied their fault)
- Tear in leather seat (screw driver in back pocket type) on a brand new car

I could go on... Frankly, I never want to have to deal with a car stealership again as long as I live. They're all thieves and liars.
 






I recently had to go to Ford to get keys made for my 98 EX. I only had a single clone key and nobody in my area could make me new keys off of it.

Ford made me 2 new keys and reprogramed the clone to still work for $85.
 






Is that a standard key or one of the ones with the buttons? I didn't think a standard RFID key had a battery.

Standard key. I'm just reading what it says on the key. I wouldn't think there's a battery in there either.

Dealership oil changes - my grandpa bought a new Chevy farm truck in 1949 with free oil changes for as long as he owned it. He was still taking it to them in '69 or '70, even though it was at least 30 miles to the dealer. He was the only one still taking advantage of that offer for many years. Only stopped when the truck was no longer roadworthy, but we still used it around the farm for a few more years.
 






My aftermarket key works fine, has for 18 years but it's been so long that I can't recall where I bought it. There is no battery in them. The electronic vial-module inside has an electrical coil that excites from the magnetic field around the switch module to power it. The remote keyfob isn't needed at all.
 






I've had several keys duplicated at Walmart for $60 each, but the duplicate for my '01 Sport Trac sometimes doesn't want to start the truck - PATS seems to not recognize it. Everything else works with it. The battery in the key can be replaced, which I might try. This is a recent development, after 2 years of working just fine with regular use. My daughter's boyfriend said he had the same trouble with the duplicate key for her Sable.

Now that the truck has done the same thing with the original key twice recently, I think the problem is the shifter is sometimes not quite into the full park position even though it looks like it is. If I push the shifter a little more to the left, the truck starts.
 






Now that the truck has done the same thing with the original key twice recently, I think the problem is the shifter is sometimes not quite into the full park position even though it looks like it is. If I push the shifter a little more to the left, the truck starts.

So if I understand what you're saying, nothing happened (no crank/no start) unless you push the shifter into PARK?

If that's what you experienced, I have 2 things to say...

1. The key/PATS does not prevent cranking on '98-'02 Explorers. PATS just won't turn on the fuel injectors to allow the engine to start.

2. The shifter being fully in PARK to allow starting is a function of the neutral safety switch located on the left side of the transmission. The shifter has a cable which is connected to the trans and the cable has an adjustment you can make to correct your issue.

BTW, The shifter is connected to the steering column with 2 torx bolts. Over time they can become loose (and even fall out). A loose shifter can cause the same problem.
 






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