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Snafu!

4X50 Exploder

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Joined
December 3, 2009
Messages
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City, State
Spokane, WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
92XLT W/'50 Ford F-1 Body
I started tearing off my front end yesterday and everything was going quickly till... On the passenger side, the bolt/stud that comes out of the top of the axle arm and attaches the upper part of the radius arm and the spring to the axle arm snapped the backing nut's weld loose!

I'm thinking that the amount of time and effort to get in there and get it clean enough to weld back on would be a total PITA and just end up happening again.

Would there be anything wrong with just replacing it with a grade eight bolt that's long enough to come from the inside, a nut to hold the radius arm and bolt the spring down again?
 

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I don't think I'd want to do that. That bolt has got to have some SERIOUS torque on it (like 300ft/lbs) and hold's your radius arm on the axle. it's a really heavy bolt. I would go to the trouble to weld it back on or just find another axle beam. I've got enough Ex parts lying around that I would just grab a new beam.

i'm sure someone will chime in with a really good reason what you are thinking isn't safe. It just doesn't feel right in my head.

Or just don't weld it and get a wrench on it or a new nut and crank it down... you just have to do it before you put the knuckle back on... wich may affect your reassembly (radius arm bracket on last...)
 












good luck getting on the head of the bolt from inside the beam.

strenght wise i think youd be fine as long as its grade 8 or higher.

better thing to do is get a really good stud remover, or use the 2 nut trick* and get that bolt out and replace it

*the 2 nut trick is where you lock 2 nuts together on a stud and then turn them to turn out the aformentioned stud, for anyone who has never heard of doin it
 






Well, whatever I do I have a major PITA ahead. The collar that was welded inside has broke loose and spins so I am gonna have to cut this stud off. The dealership wants $24 for a replacement stud. The collar must have been welded in place while the axle arm was seperated because I can't reach it with the mig well enough to get more than a tack on it... Buying another from the bone yard may not be any better off... These springs made it 400K, can't see replacing the new ones in my life time... The next owner will need something to ***** about... Might as well add this to their list!
 






Well, I was able to dodge this bullet. Thanks for the feedbacks! I was able to clean the inside collar up with a sandblaster and re-weld it to get the stud out. Now we'll see what happens when it's time to get the other side torn apart...

It'll be a little while before I tackle that. I have to figure out how to get in there and grind off the rivets that hold the mount for the pass side axle bar pivot bracket out of the way so I can put the 5” drop bracket on.

Anyone have guidance for getting the pass side drive shaft out of there? Are there seals/bearings that need to be replaced if removed?

Little by little, this is starting to look like something other than just another oily spot on the driveway...

I was also curious, is there any market for stock springs, radius arms and cross member or should I just pitch them after I get the lift on?
 

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<snip>
Anyone have guidance for getting the pass side drive shaft out of there? Are there seals/bearings that need to be replaced if removed?

<snip>

The passenger side inner shaft is held into the pumpkin by a c-clip. To get it out you pull the pumpkin. Its actually not as hard as you think. While your doing that you should do the c-clip eliminator mod. That way if the shaft ever has to come out again you can just pull it out.

If you only need to pull the outter shaft you can pull the boot off the center of the passenger side axle and then just pull it apart but it may fight you if it has never been off before.

I was also curious, is there any market for stock springs, radius arms and cross member or should I just pitch them after I get the lift on?

Radius arms are sometimes wanted and cross members (RA cross members) are also sometimes wanted but less often.

~Mark
 






I sold a set of Explorer stock coils to a Bronco II owner. They provide a small amount of lift. You never know who's gonna want your junk...
 






KP, when you installed your lift, was your stock Pass Side pivot bracket rivited on? Any time saving tip on how you got it off?
 






Did you poke your fingers on the other side of those "rivets"? I think mine were just carriage head bolts. Clean it off really good back there and have a look. Of they are rivets (which I don't think they are) get a grinder, take the heads off, then use an air hammer to pound them out. If not then get a friend to hold a punch while you swing at it...:D
 






I could use the driver side RA if you are selling. The shock stud busted off. A crappy shop that replaced the shocks used the universal bolt. Over time it wore an oval shape in the RA. I recently replaced my shocks and found this. I used a new universal shock bolt but would prefer a new RA. PM me when you are ready to sell em.
 






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