Sneak Peak: My Jurassic Park Explorer

[Maniak]

It is mentioned at least once..

Well, not the fqdn, but explorerforum is mentioned.

~Mark

 

[cloaked_chaos]

I couldn't find a single post in his user history mentioning explorerforum. I saw a few mentions of other forums, but not ours.

 

[Maniak]

I couldn't find a single post in his user history mentioning explorerforum. I saw a few mentions of other forums, but not ours.

Wasn't him that mentioned "another explorerforum"..

But yea.. Where's the love for EF?

~Mark

 

[vq5speed]

How many Jurassic Park theme X's do we have here. Are there 2?

 

[scoodidabop]

At least 4 that I know of. Not all of them are still posting about it though.

Sorry about not plugging the site guys, I didn't know we needed it here. I'll be more than happy to mention this forum for the curious but you guys are THE go-to place for Explorer info so any quick google search looking for tech info about these Fords will get the right people onto this board.

 

[scoodidabop]

Well guys I think I'm going to forgo the OBDII thing and instead just chop my existing cluster in half essentially. RPM quit working last week randomly anyway and there's no other parts of the right side of the cluster I can't live with out (I'll lose a few idiot lights: e-brake, seatbelt etc). Using just the left side of the cluster would give me everything I need; Speed, temp, fuel, volts, oil. And If I chop the entire assembly down to it's essential bits then it will be the right size to fit in the the track sensor thingy that sits on top the dash:

It'll be slightly larger to compensate for the gauge size (maybe 1.5" taller) but can be easily hidden for display purposes.

The idea of the OBDII conversion using this method is still probably viable but I'm just tired of jerking around with it, especially after ruining one brain already. It was nice though, the wire colors matched up from my cluster into the OBDII harness, probably because the sensors were the same. A good sign for the conversion but I've ultimately not done it any justice.

 

[FR-425]

The original idea was to not to "convert" to OBD II, but just use the OBD II computer to generate a usable signal at the test port for a digital dash application.

If you are trying to replace the OBD I computer completely, you are over thinking it a bit.

The only in-cab wiring should be the test port, right?

You won't need to provide power or ground to any sensors, (already getting that from the OBD I) just "tap" them for signal.

 

[scoodidabop]

No you're right and that is indeed the approach I was taking. I was using the word "conversion" just in shorthand.

The brain is fried. I don't wish to order another one with possibility of frying it too. My OBDII reader doesn't work with my android device due to USB compatibility issues. Its time to cut my losses on that idea and simplify I think. At least this way the gauges are guaranteed to work, it's safer for the driver, and there's no android bootup time before I can see the gauges.

Oh BTW FR-425 - does the VSS wire enter the cabin at all? I found the wire on the speedo gear housing but lost track of it pretty quickly while tracing it's path back up to the engine bay.

 

[FR-425]

Oh BTW FR-425 - does the VSS wire enter the cabin at all? I found the wire on the speedo gear housing but lost track of it pretty quickly while tracing it's path back up to the engine bay.

It goes directly to the pcm, so it will be in the transmission bundle and pass through the fire wall with all the rest to the pcm.

Probably easiest to tap in at the VSS and run a new wire all the way to wherever you need it.

 

[scoodidabop]

Cut down my gauge cluster and everything still works fine. Working on a housing for the gauges that will be the base for the dash cams. I'm bummed that the OBDII thing didn't work out but it was time to get this thing one, one way or another.

Nixed the whole OBDII idea and decided to cut down the cluster and make a custom housing for it. I'm disappointed that I couldn't get it working but I have to be pragmatic about this whole project sometimes. Updates!

Dash installed:

 

[Maniak]

Just a heads up.. don't loose the Charge light indicator on the dash. If you do you loose the exciter circuit and the alternator won't charge..

[MENTION=4516]Dannyboy[/MENTION] learned that the hard way when he made is own dash.

~Mark

 

[scoodidabop]

Thanks Maniak! FR was kind enough to inform me of that one. I built the 510ohm resistor into place when relocating the charge light.

 

[FR-425]

 

[scoodidabop]

So a weird thing happened a few days ago; after the Ex warmed up I started losing power like CRAZY. I couldn't go faster than about 35mph and if I tried to rev the engine it would just maintain idle and sputter. Good thing it was the weekend and I wasn't too far from home!

When I got back into the driveway I did the old IT Crowd trick - turned it off and on again. Much to my surprise the engine started acting completely normal again for a minute before reverting it its bad behavior.

So it seems vacuum related or like a sensor problem maybe. I've cleaned the MAP sensor and put in a new air filter all within the last year but maybe it's time to do it again. Im probably overdue for spark plugs & wires and I'm about a few hundred miles overdue on my oil change. I don't drive the Ex much but it is my primary vehicle so I gotta get this thing road worthy again! Maybe my first mistake was relying on a 20 year old gen 1 Exploder in the first place :scratch:

 

[Maniak]

You don't have a map sensor on your '93.. There is a MAF sensor right off the air filter box.. But that isn't important...

Back to the symptom.. I'd check fuel pressure. Specifically, when running.. My first guess is the fuel pump is getting weak and the fuel filter is plugged up (which makes the fuel pump run hard).. Fuel pressure testers are < $50 and you just connect it to the fuel rail ( located just left of the passenger side of the upper intake plenum)..

~Mark

 

[scoodidabop]

Sorry about the terminology mixup - I meant MAF.

EDITED: So I had some funky issues with getting the truck running but after some fresh gas and an overdue oil change we're mostly back in business.


OK, so I still need to test the fuel pressure, which I'll probably do in the next couple of days. Doing a websearch I found that I should also quickly check the inertia switch and the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) and maybe replace the ECT (not sure what that acronym means but I'm familiar with the sensor location). So how do I test the FPR?

Another symptom to note: when I unplug my MAF the car runs mostly normal... A bit rich, sure but road worthy at least. With the MAF plugged in I get stuttering, rough idle and it almost completely stalls out when I open the throttle too quickly. I suppose this could be due to fuel pressure, right? ...or should I turn my attention to some sensors?

 

[scoodidabop]

completely changed the the post above since I narrowed down a few things.

 

[deamon3]

Through some looking around online I have found that the original front seats in the movie are from a grand cherokee. When you take the headrests off the stitch pattern and shape and material is the same.

 

[NICE59FORDF100]

Subscribing... ::looks around quick-eyed::

 

[Blue91Ex]

any progress?