Snowball 94 Limited | Page 11 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Snowball 94 Limited

Nice photos, you make me want to get back into photography now.
Thanks!

Looks good, you might want to try some "Whink Rust Stain Remover" and get those streaks off your back window :D
Thanks. I saw Joe's thread awhile back and have been meaning to get some just keep forgetting.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





On Tomorrow's agenda after work..
  • Assemble Running Boards
  • Wire LEDs into running boards(Changing mind gonna wait till I can afford 12v rope light)
  • ReInstall Running boards

Oh whats the best thing to remove over-spray from glass? I didn't cover enough of it and the wind didn't help me either but I'd rather it be on glass then the pain though.

Well nothing got done on this list today had a wire come lose in the driver door so the window wouldn't work so I spent the last hour or so of light after work chasing the lose connection and fixing it. Got it all fixed and put back together right as the light went away.

Also need to add install new radio in dash since I finally got the correct wiring harness.
 






I suggest investing in a good soldering iron, and making any connections of large gauge wire with at least solder. You did everything great except for the actual wire connections.

I spent a lot of time and used a lot of care when I put together my power window wiring. Those are high amperage circuits, and those blue splice connectors are bad for high current wires.
 

Attachments

  • Projectthread099.JPG
    Projectthread099.JPG
    100.3 KB · Views: 454
  • Projectthread098.JPG
    Projectthread098.JPG
    102.4 KB · Views: 413






I suggest investing in a good soldering iron, and making any connections of large gauge wire with at least solder. You did everything great except for the actual wire connections.

I spent a lot of time and used a lot of care when I put together my power window wiring. Those are high amperage circuits, and those blue splice connectors are bad for high current wires.

I've got a decent soldering iron and can use it fairly well. I just didn't feel like soldering things up with not being sure it would work. Plus I hate havin to run the extension cord into the house for power. Next time the panel is off I'l prob solder them in place since I know it works now.
 






Took some better pics of the painted parts on the truck the other day.

Snowballpaint6.jpg

Snowballpaint5.jpg

Snowballpaint1.jpg
 






That looks very good having new paint there. Also try to keep something on the rubber around the quarter glass. That rubber along the top dries out and starts pitting etc. I haven't tried to wipe something on mine yet, but it would help to treat them with something good for rubber(not wax).
 






That looks very good having new paint there. Also try to keep something on the rubber around the quarter glass. That rubber along the top dries out and starts pitting etc. I haven't tried to wipe something on mine yet, but it would help to treat them with something good for rubber(not wax).

Ok I'll see what I can find for it.

I also learned my lesson bout tap connectors one came lose on Passenger door and now the window doesn't work. I'm gonna pull it all apart tomorrow and solder everything together.
 






Ah, I worry about them for high current because the current will build heat in those connections, and often quit working.
 






Got my headunit installed yesterday...
utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTEwNTA3LTAwMDM5LmpwZw.jpg

Sounds tons better and a lot louder Just hooked it up through the stock amp for now have the harness to bypass the amp just been lazy and haven't tore the back apart to install it.

Also Dad went out to an auction and came back with these.
utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTEwNTA3LTAwMDQwLmpwZw.jpg

They're Jensen XS 2650s. Thinking of installin these in front doors.
Worth it??
 






I think anythings better than stock lol.

Be careful having that RCA plug like that, from what ive seen that puts alot of stress on the input jack. (Happened to a friends)
 






I think anythings better than stock lol.

Be careful having that RCA plug like that, from what ive seen that puts alot of stress on the input jack. (Happened to a friends)

Not anything... These were dead no sound at all came out when I hooked them up. The RCA was only temporary and didn't even work I only had a RCA to Mono plug so it only came out one side. I'm just using CDs for now I'll order a new stereo cord soon.

Oh and an update on the auto up and down I installed since I had the panels off today I went ahead and soldered everything up. I'm still not the best at soldering but it all works and I only came out with a couple burns on my knuckles from not payin attention.
 






I SUCK at soldering! It seems SO easy, but im just terrible. Maybe its the fact that I only have like a 30w iron, with cheap solder? :dunno:

Let me rephrase "anything" into "most things" are better than stock :p:
 






Looking good Will. I have many cheap parts for mine. As soon as I take pics you will be able to understand my signature, LOL. I have Jensen speakers in mine w/ the factory head unit still. I paid $13 for all 4 @ a pull-a-part in Winston-Salem, NC before I moved to TN. I'm up here in Clarksville, and a good friend of mine lives outside of Knoxville. My x just turned 199k the other day still chuggin along.

A good tip is next time you change your oil get the motorcraft 5w-30 semi-synthetic. I use it and a motorcraft oil filter, and I get 20 on the highway. I also installed new motorcraft plugs and wires (got them from advance auto) $50 for wires and $4 I think per plug. That helped out alot for fuel economy.
 






I SUCK at soldering! It seems SO easy, but im just terrible. Maybe its the fact that I only have like a 30w iron, with cheap solder? :dunno:

Let me rephrase "anything" into "most things" are better than stock :p:

That's all I have just the cheapie Radio shack 30w Iron I bought it for like $15 cause it was cheaper to buy a new one than buy a tip for the 25w Weller one I got for Christmas. As for solder I used the stuff that came with the iron.

I do it a bit different than most though. I melt some solder on top of the wires with the iron then put the tip under the wires and let it remelt it and flow.
 






Looking good Will. I have many cheap parts for mine. As soon as I take pics you will be able to understand my signature, LOL. I have Jensen speakers in mine w/ the factory head unit still. I paid $13 for all 4 @ a pull-a-part in Winston-Salem, NC before I moved to TN. I'm up here in Clarksville, and a good friend of mine lives outside of Knoxville. My x just turned 199k the other day still chuggin along.

A good tip is next time you change your oil get the motorcraft 5w-30 semi-synthetic. I use it and a motorcraft oil filter, and I get 20 on the highway. I also installed new motorcraft plugs and wires (got them from advance auto) $50 for wires and $4 I think per plug. That helped out alot for fuel economy.

I've been thinking about tryin the Motorcraft Semi-Syn but Walmart is the cheapest place for it and it goes quickly. I always use a Motorcraft filter though heard too many horror stories of other brands.
 






The Motorcraft Semi-Syn is a good oil- that's what I've been using for a while now...
 






Ugh!!

Ugh, I'm havin no luck with electrical work lately. First the auto up on Drivers side then auto down on passenger side, then the completely dead speakers...
NOW the stupid stereo wiring has apparently came lose cause I'm now getting either no or intermentan sound out of the drivers door.

Guess that's all coming back out Wednesday.


But on a plus I only have 3 exams left and I'm completely done and starting summer. Which means more money and time so...More MODS!:D:D
 






I'm not great at soldering, but I've learned a trick or two. I prefer to use bare butt connectors and crimp wires together, and then solder the connector. I apply the heat to the crimp connector, and when it gets hot enough, the solder is drawn into the wires and connector. That makes a strong connection which is a key for automobile use.
 






I'm not great at soldering, but I've learned a trick or two. I prefer to use bare butt connectors and crimp wires together, and then solder the connector. I apply the heat to the crimp connector, and when it gets hot enough, the solder is drawn into the wires and connector. That makes a strong connection which is a key for automobile use.

To me that sounds like it wouldn't add that much strength and I would think it would require much more heat to get the solder to flow through the connector and the wires.
When I was an Electrical Engineering Major at TTU they taught us to solder and one of the things they kept sayin was to heat it just enough to pull the solder through cause if you heated it too much it would melt the wire covering or it could damage the resistors and the like.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





In a high vibration application like we have it's better to make sure it stays in place if at all possible. The goal is maximum surface area contact between the wiring, so that'd mean wrapping 2" of each wire together etc, with minimal solder. That's how some people do radio wiring, but for some things like the window high current connections, a short is a bad thing too. I like the late model wiring systems much better than older cars. These are full of tiny wires that are low current, trigger or signal wires. Those can do fine with just crimped connections. I only solder the high current stuff, like windows, seats, ignition etc.
 






Back
Top