So I bought this 4x4 SUV...ld50

Jason_25 · May 23, 2002

Sweet!

Looking forward to hearing your story.

But the term "SUV" I don't like. Sounds too girly.

ok89 · May 23, 2002

Originally posted by Jason_25
Sweet!

Looking forward to hearing your story.

But the term "SUV" I don't like. Sounds too girly.

Yup Its a TRUCK (at least the state of Texas thinks so

)

LiKuiD · May 23, 2002

i have a 4 door wagon! well according to NJ

ld50 · May 23, 2002

So the truck was here, and It needed me.
The first thing I did was raise the liscence plate. (the front skirt/airdam was already gone)

I pulled off the plate holder, hacksawed off the lower bracket, and turned it upside down. Hmm, no good, now the top of the plate would stick out because of the angle.
NO PROBLEM!
I hacksawed the knobs that the mount screws went through so they were flat, and screwed them on with a washer large enough to not go through the hole, voila!
Oh yeah, my uncle gave me the plate frames! don`t laugh. I might ditch them, but can`t decide...

Also picked up some zenon, or ultra blue white lights, or what ever hyped name they had and threw them in. As an after thought I got those hyper mini driving lights and put them in the bumper slots. Only tricky thing there was I had to unscrew the light covers and flip them so the drain/vent holes were underneath the light, ( I mounted them upside down, they were set up to hang under the bumper or something)

After that was my first camera shot!

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Yes that is "Jack" on my antenna! No, there is no Jack in the boxes up here in Canada!

TOTAL $ CDN SPENT

Truck = $8500.00
Plasma white hid headlights = $39.96
Mini driving lights = $65.00

Total "EX"penses = $8604.96

Stay tuned...

88vert · May 23, 2002

Nice truck,I like the lights

ld50 · May 23, 2002

Yup Its a TRUCK (at least the state of Texas thinks so )

Yeah, truck/SUV/ car/ wagon?

In BC it`s classified as a car or station wagon, and doesn`t get truck plates.

ld50 · May 23, 2002

My next purchase was a cone filter adapter that I found on ebay.

ld50 · May 23, 2002

Alot of people wonder about the two hoses going from the stock airbox.
The two hoses operate a valve that allows air to be drawn in from near your exhaust manifold. You can feel under there and see where it hooks into the intake.
The connectors at the air filter box has a bi-metal switch that allows vaccuum to go to one hose or the other, which controls the valve. This is to get warmer air into the engine at startup, and cooler air as you drive.

I removed the hose connectors and installed them onto the end of the K&N cone filter. Then I ripped off the baffle in front of the filter intake tube. (behind the grill, next to your headlight) I figured any cool air that could get there would help.
I have not noticed any side effects from more hot air being drawn in, but haven`t been through some really hot weather yet. Southwestern BC is very temperate.

The adapter was an easy install and I`ll tell ya it was a shock to feel how much difference it made in my power range. I did a drilled filter box mod to my 5.0 mustang a while back and never noticed any thing, but maybe it sucked as hard as it could already

Oh yeah better add the cost of the side window visors I got from Walls-Mart.

TOTAL $ CDN SPENT

Truck = $8500.00
Plasma white hid headlights = $39.96
Mini driving lights = $65.00
Filter adapter = $68.41
K&N filter = $50.00
Window visors = $45.00

Total "EX"penses = $8768.37

Jim from BC

ld50 · May 24, 2002

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Cone Filter Installed

ld50 · May 24, 2002

So now I needed to work on my mobile communications. I needed a "Citizen Band" radio, or CB for short.

I cheaped out here. I heard they all transmit and recieve at a standard level because of government guidelines, so I went to Radio Shack and bought the cheapest one. I know, some scan & do fancy stuff, but hey..Canadian Tire supplied me with a through-the-glass antenna, which I mounted on the front windshield, driver`s side. It`s like those cell phone ants. Remember, I can`t get too high with the truck, and I thought I could run around town with it adjusted back and down so I can still get in my garage after lifting it a bit.
The instuctions suggested this spot if you have a pump in your gas tank, so

.

Outside Looka Like Dis
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I had to put it at an angle for the slope in the glass. When it is strait up, it is at 90 degrees to the truck.

Inside you see this:
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The cable is run under the dash, up the inside of the window frame to the receiver.

And the CB I mounted with velcro, then screwed 4 short screws into the soft part of the paneling. I wish I had a right angle drill to mount to the metal, but we`ll see.
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TOTAL $ CDN SPENT

Truck = $8500.00
Plasma white hid headlights = $39.96
Mini driving lights = $65.00
Filter adapter = $68.41
K&N filter = $50.00
Window visors = $45.00
Cheap CB = $75.00
Antenna = $50.00

Total "EX"penses = $8893.37

I did something wierd next, but It`ll be cool, and cheap.

ld50 · May 24, 2002

I was looking on ebay one day and saw these mesh grill inserts people were putting inside their front end openings. can`t remember if they had one for an Ex. But didn`t care.

The mesh looked exactly like First Aid splinting mesh. I`ve always been into first aid, and this same mesh helped me bondo a seriously rotten Datsun 510 when I was a teen. -I taped the mesh behind the holes in the rocker panels and spread the bondo into it. Works great, and saves bondo! (wait a minute, why did I waste my time on that?)

I wanted it for the EX because of all the small rocks I saw caught in the a/c evaporator(?) behind the grill, and it looks nifty.

It comes in strips, so I had too use six of them. I trimmed `em with cutters and bent them in at the top so there would be no gaps. Then I just bent it around the contours of the grill.

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I drilled holes, and kind of sewed it on with bailing wire. I really should have used stainless wire here because it is bound to rust.

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This pic doesn`t do it justice but,

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I don`t have a pic now but I have to use my screw driver to open it. I drilled a hole and fastened two washers on each side. The screwdriver, or, "hood Latch Lever" as I call it, is kept in the glove box.

I had the splint mesh so it was a free mod!

ld50 · May 24, 2002

Next was to do half my "recovery" system.

If I had the money now, You know there would be a new bumper and winch on there right now!

I went to "Lordco" and bought two chrome tow hooks they had for sale.

More easy stuff, I won`t drag this out. I just bolted the rear of the hooks in the forward-most stock holes, made sure it was pulled forward tightly, and drilled the second hole out forwards from that. A c-clamp helps. The second hole in the tow hook is, of course, your guide.

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I`m not sure how to do the back yet. I have a tow ball and may take it off and carry a shackle for now. Might go for a hidden hitch, but need to get a tire under there.

Next episode:

"Jim does a pro comp 2" add a leaf and spacer lift - all by himself!"

ld50 · May 25, 2002

I picked up a Pro comp 2" add a leaf and spacer lift from ebay (did I mention I love ebay?) I also ordered 4 new Procomp ES 3000 shocks from the same place (RSDI racing, I think they were called)

--The kit was this:
Explorer Pro Comp add-a-leaf. part # 56001
& a set of poly 2" spacers (don`t know part#).

Others have used these for the front:
Ford F-150 spacers - I found 2 part numbers on a post for these:
#F2TZ-5A307-A
#3F2TZ-5A307-B

I was supposed to have my couzin help me, but he went camping and 4x4ing that weekend, traitor!. Having the kit sitting there was too much, I had to get it on NOW!

I went in to work on my day off and started at about 12:30 pm. I was done at 8:00 pm

I used alot of info gained from this site on how to attack it. I noticed alot of people using shackles, but learned that the add-a-leaf would most closely resemble stock ride.
Disclaimer!
I think I should rethink this statement. I have HEARD that it will help with sagging springs, if you want it to resemble stock again. The general consensus is shackles don`t change the ride, which makes sense. Also. I don`t know what the stock ride felt like since the shocks were shot and the springs were fatigued when I bought the EX.

A must was a liberal soaking in penetrating oil long before that day. I soaked all the nuts I would
be removing a week before, and then the day before. I don`t have power tools and even with the soaking, every darn bolt fought till the bitter end.

Another must was a punch to knock out bolts that went through rubber. (Sway bar connections& leaf spring ends)
And I did need a chisel, you`ll see why..
And a vise. If you don`t have one, you`ll need a few c-clamps

I jacked up the rear, and supported the truck from the frame like this:

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I took out the spare tire and before undoing anything, I put the floor jack under the diff. to just support the axle`s weight, since I would only do one side at a time.
Look at the condition of those shocks -disgusting!

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The little instruction sheet said to remove the breather line from the axle, but I didn`t see any problem leaving it on.

Okay, with the axle supported I took off the shocks, just spun wrenches until the leaf spring was off, and I put it in the vise, as close to the nut through the center as I could. The kit came with long replacement bolts, so I just chiseled the old nut in half since it was very rusty.
Then you release the vise and put the new leaf between the other leafs and the overload leaf. I put grease on the outside ends as directed in the instructions. Put the new bolt through the holes to help keep it all together. You gotta fiddle a bit while tightening it together in the vise, while tightening the nut as you go. Once I was happy I tightened it fully then chiseled off the excess bolt lenth.

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Putting it back on is easy. I was a little worried about getting it straight, but it all fits together with a hole for the top of the nut to fit back into, and the shock bracket has a hole that fits over the bottom nut. (trust me, if you`ve never done it you will see how easy it is)

You can see how much lower the leaf is now that it is back in place without the axle being moved in this pic:

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One thing I did after was slightly bend the brake line bracket to make sure the hose had a bit extra room. Carefull to not kink the hard line. It is hard to the bracket, then it changes to hose.

For the front, I supported the truck from the frame again and undid one side of the sway bar and removed the shock. Undo the bolt holding the spring down, (1 1/8 " wrench) and the coil spins out of the top. Make a note of how far to spin it back.
I chucked the old spring keeper and I put the spacer on the cup that the keeper was on. I worked the spring in there with a pinch bar while kind of pushing down on the hub and screwed the coil to where it was before.
I jacked up that side of the Dana untill the coil looked like it was seated properly into the spacer, and pounded with a mallet until it was centered around the bolt. Then I tightened it all up and put the new shock on.

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Of course it was all going too smoothly, right? Sure enough the lower shock mount/driver`s side was attacked by Murphy`s law. The bolt just twisted right off and took the threads with it. It must have been barely hanging on because at first I thought the nut was already loose. Anyway, I finished up, put the new shock into place, and reconnected the sway bar.

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I didn`t have any thing to fix the mount with and since it still had the part that the shock sits on, I did this to get me home:

(Don`t Laugh)
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So it was back to Serious Explorations, where a brother directed me to the Canadian Tire "HELP" section for a shock mount replacement.

After some intimate time with a grinder, I had the offending mount gone, I drilled a hole for the new mount, and I threw some paint on the bare metal. Then I installed the mount. Good as new now!

I wanted just 2" to get 31" tires on there. I might have gone for 32" but learned from this site that they would rub the front fenders and not fit in the spare tire hole.
In the future I see one of those bumpers with the tire carrier on it. Maybe when my new tires wear out I will go that route...

MY NEW TIRES ARE:

31x10.5 BFG T/A K/Os

Really a well made tire, and rated one of the best all terrain for ice and snow. A good compromise between street and offroad performance.

The tire guy pointed out that my air fill points were really long on those rims so we went with shorter ones to avoid getting them ripped off on a trail. Good idea! The hard decision was white lettering in or out. I put it in out of personal preference, but they wouldn`t look bad out either.

Here is how she looks now:

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TOTAL $ CDN SPENT

Truck = $8500.00
Plasma white hid headlights = $39.96
Mini driving lights = $65.00
Filter adapter = $68.41
K&N filter = $50.00
Window visors = $45.00
Cheap CB = $75.00
Antenna = $50.00
Tow hooks = $40.00
2" susp lift with shocks = $464.00
31x10.5 BFG T/A K/Os = $835.00

Total "EX"penses = $10232.37

Yaay! we broke the ten thou. mark on this truck!

Well this IS Canadian money, it`s not REALLY worth that much. lol.

I thought I`d add the fact that I really don`t need to hear how good a deal you got on something I may have been overcharged for! Please don`t stress me out if ya can help it.

Next episode:
"Let me get this straight. The alignment costs more than the lift and shocks?" bwaaaaaaaaaaaah!
:fire:

ld50 · May 26, 2002

I needed the alignment done, and there is one close to my house. Perfect, right? Yeah, right!

Now, I tend to act a little dumb when I go into a shop, and yes I have gotten the odd free brake inspection by going to a big name brake shop and saying, "you say they are pretty worn, could I see them, cuz I never knew to much about it, and it always intrigued me?"
Ha Ha.. Suckers, as if I`d let you overcharge me for that.

But I digress,
I always act dumb at first to get a feel for their honesty, when they look at the work that was to be done. If they come at you to replace stuff you know is alright, you can call them on it, and denounce their honesty.

Now I don`t know much about alignments so I was a little at their mercy. He called me and said he didn`t want to do it unless I replaced the lower ball joints. I was a little skeptical, but asked about the price. He said he would call back with a price.
I raced to the computer to this site and asked for help and started searching for info. I found that since I had 159,000km on my Ex that it wasn`t unreasonable. So I said go ahead then. I was worried too, when he said he wouldn`t guarrantee the alignment unless I did it, that I would end up with a cruddy job that I couldn`t make him fix.

Well, ten minutes later the weasel calls back and says my brakes are down to the rivets (THE RIVETS!!), and I will need new rotors, because they are undersized. I said "oh really, they seem good to me' Then he added that the u-joints were very bad in the front as well, and he would gladly repair it all for me. He was bewildered that I hadn`t noticed my truck squealing, and clicking and banging everytime I turned the wheels.
I said that I was on top of the brakes condition and that he was wrong. (they have 1/4 inch at the mostly worn inner pads, The manual says down to 1/8th is fine). I also said the u-joints felt fine as well, and I didn`t know what he was talking about.
<Just to be fair;
I did replace the u-joints later, so he wasn`t all BS. The brakes are still fine though.>
And this guy`s challenging me to come down and see!
I said,
"Listen, pal, I`m not going down there to listen to your BS about something I can easily do myself. I only went to you because I don`t know about alignments. You got the ball joints out of me so do me a favor and just align the dam thing!"
He was like "oh you can do that yourself, even the u-joints? I guess he figured he would be redoing my whole front end before the day was out.

So I pick up the truck at closing time, pay the very large bill, and the thing is swerving to the right like it has a death wish! I went to my work and check the toe and found it to be 3/16 of toe out, instead of 1/8 toe in.

There I am at 9 the next morning, feeling a tad bit cranky, and causing a scene until he called the alignment guy in on his day off, and got me a courtesy car. His atitude did change when I made him drive it though, I`ll give him that, but he didn`t apreciate me telling him to check the toe.

And in the end, I got what I wanted. AN ALIGNMENT!
It feels good now, and with the lift and shocks it feels very sturdy and truck like. It wasn`t cheap tho`

Guy at work`s truck burnt down the other day, I`m waiting for him to scan a picture of it burning, you gotta see it, broke his heart, and he had no way to put it out.

I added this to the Ex, which should be part of your trail kit anyway:

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It was a cheap one with a cheap mount so I didn`t want to permanently mount it anywhere. I used those plastic tie thingies to attach it to my seat mounts, where it will always be handy.

PROBLEMS!!

I got that notorious left side lean to the truck, It`s about 3/4" on the rear and 1/2" on the front. I don`t like it, and wish I had swapped the leafs and coils side for side when I did the lift! Do you think that would have done anything?? Or is it really the gas tank?
I never really noticed it till I read a thread here.

I would like to get longer shackles in the rear to keep it from sagging when I stuff the back with trail gear. Has any one else tried this?

TOTAL $ CDN SPENT

Truck = $8500.00
Plasma white hid headlights = $39.96
Mini driving lights = $65.00
Filter adapter = $68.41
K&N filter = $50.00
Window visors = $45.00
Cheap CB = $75.00
Antenna = $50.00
Tow hooks = $40.00
2" susp lift with shocks = $464.00
31x10.5 BFG T/A K/Os = $835.00
New lower ball jts. and alignment = $ 604.00
Fire extinguisher = $ 40.00

Total "EX"penses = $10876.37

I`m not done yet!

Next episode:

"Jim gets the most expensive and exciting mod yet!"

Silverblade · May 26, 2002

hey look....someone from coquitlam. I thought i was the only one on this board from up here. Good work.

ld50 · May 26, 2002

Hello Neighbor!

Eagle Ridge mountain was going to be my first big test. I was going next weekend. AND THEY WENT AND GATED IT! Well at least from what I understand, it will be gated by tomorrow.
I haven`t been up in years... Was so lookin` forward to it. Think I`ll head out Past Hope for a place I can get into.

Thanks for the post. I was feeling a little lonely out here. :chug:

biggs85 · May 27, 2002

I just read your whole story up to this point for the first time and I have to say that I like it a lot. I like the whole idea of having all the prices of everything so everyone can see what each individual thing cost. I was looking to do pretty much the same thing as you with the lift and tires and these posts have helped me a lot. I have one question about the add-a-leaf lift though. You said that that the add-a-leaf would be more like the stock ride but I've read that the longer shackles would be more like the stock ride because you're not altering the springs. Wouldn't the add-a-leaf make the ride a little stiffer?

Wolf76 · May 27, 2002

lower ball joints are a total pain in the ass to do, i just did both lower (uppers for the heck of it) and it makes a big diffrence on the aliment, just them alone was throw my aliment out enough that you could see it just by looking, few other things to check are the radius arm bushings

BTW, what type of off road is this truck going to see (mud/rock/trail/steam crossing, ect..)? might be able to suggest some simple low cost mods that will help down the line

ld50 · May 27, 2002

Wouldn't the add-a-leaf make the ride a little stiffer?

EDIT!
<Disclaimer!
I think I should rethink this statement. I have HEARD that it will help with sagging springs, if you want it to resemble stock again. The general consensus is shackles don`t change the ride, which makes sense. Also. I don`t know what the stock ride felt like since the shocks were shot and the springs were fatigued when I bought the EX.>

You know, I think so too, and now I can`t remember where I heard that from. Maybe it has to do with the longer shackle allowing the leaf to move around more, thereby making it a little squishy. I figure older springs would firm up it again and make them feel like new. Feels nice now though..

As for the prices, it was kind of spurned by that "advice to 16 year olds" write up where someone basically tells the kid to wait till he`s older cuz it is expensive. And now you can see that is.

So I bought this 4x4 SUV...ld50

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Oh, the money you`ll blow

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Oh, the money you`ll blow

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Oh, the money you`ll blow

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