U joint replacement
If its the rear driveshaft, you will need a 12-point metric box wrench to remove the flange bolts. I think they are 12 mm. Spray the bolts with penetrating oil and let them soak. I used Castle's "Liquid Torch". Mark the driveshaft and flanges, so you can put it back in the same way, so it will be properly balanced. The rear driveshaft drops out easily.
To press the U joints out we used a really big vise, with an extension bar on the handle and sockets. It took two guys, one to hold the vise and one to crank it. Pressing the joints out of the yoke was a bit scary. We would crank and crank on the vise, nothing would happen, then SNAP, the joint would give a little. Crank some more, nothing, then SNAP again and it would shift some more.
I used NAPA U joints and had no trouble getting them to fit. This from the Haynes Manual: To get the C clips to seat, give the yoke a sharp rap with a hammer (not too hard). This will spring the yoke a little and allow the joint to seat properly. Likewise, if they are tight and don't swing freely, rap the yoke a little.
A long as you have the driveshaft out, you might as well lubricate the slip yoke. You will have to cut the boot bands off, but just buy a couple of CV joint boot bands. We used tile cutting pliers to crimp the bands.
Don't forget to Loctite the bolts when you reinstall the driveshaft.
I recommend 2 persons to do this job, mainly because of the force required to press the joints out, and if this is your first time doing this job (as it was with me), two heads are always better than one.
Bob