So my fuel tank is currently laying on the floor in my garage, need assistance please | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

So my fuel tank is currently laying on the floor in my garage, need assistance please

King$nake

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 19, 2006
Messages
505
Reaction score
0
City, State
Oceanside, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Eddie Bauer 5.0
Ok,

So awhile back I replaced my fuel pump. The truck runs fine, but I've had a CE light on ever since. I got the codes pulled, and the code is an 0453.

Today I finally had the time to drop the fuel tank and check all the connections. I noticed one connection was disconnected! I plugged it back in, and started my truck for just a second. The Check Engine Light is still on. Should I disconnect the battery for 20 minutes and wait it out and see if it clears?

Anyways, not sure if the CE light should have cleared immediately if that was the problem.

Let me know what I should do,

Thanks
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Yes reset it.

But of course it could stay off for a while and come on again later. Which would suck to have to drop the tank again.
 






Yes reset it.

But of course it could stay off for a while and come on again later. Which would suck to have to drop the tank again.

Thanks for the help.

Ya I disconnected the battery for 20 minutes and reconnected it. Started the truck up & the CE light was off. Drove it around the block, CE never came back on. Sweet! Im glad it was such a simple issue.

Maybe now I will start getting accurate fuel gauge readings again. I wonder if that sensor was causing it.

The sensor was some type of pressure sensor (code: 0453)
 






The tank pressure sensor is for the evap emissions system...

It measures the pressure or vacuum on the fuel tank as the PCM tests it to see if the tank will hold a slight vacuum to remove the vapors into the vapor canister...

I don't believe it would have anything to do with the level readings...However, if one of the leads attached to the unit was disconnected, that would affect the level readings...There are two leads coming from the fuel pump/sending unit that need to be connected...The fuel tank pressure sensor is a seperate connection that is made directly at the sensor itself...

So was the pressure sensor the only connection that was not made on the tank or was there another one disconnected as well?
 






It measures the pressure or vacuum on the fuel tank as the PCM tests it to see if the tank will hold a slight vacuum to remove the vapors into the vapor canister...

I don't believe it would have anything to do with the level readings...However, if one of the leads attached to the unit was disconnected, that would affect the level readings...There are two leads coming from the fuel pump/sending unit that need to be connected...The fuel tank pressure sensor is a seperate connection that is made directly at the sensor itself...

So was the pressure sensor the only connection that was not made on the tank or was there another one disconnected as well?

Ya, the pressure sensor is the only one I could see that was disconnected. Of course visibility wasn't too good because I didn't remove the spare or any of the rear wheels. My Check Engine light is off now, so I think that may have been the only thing.

When I replaced the fuel pump, I fear that I may have bent the float tube when I was trying to put the assembly back in the fuel cell.

My fuel gauge is pretty accurate, but I ran out of gas once and my digital readout showed 40 miles to empty (I have the manual fuel gauge in my instrument cluster, and the 'miles to empty' digital readout in the console). This happened after I replaced the fuel pump. I also noticed it would occasionally fluctuate from 1/2 tank to 1/4 tank, etc.


Like today for example, it was showing my fuel at less than a 1/4 of a tank, but my digital readout says "134 miles to empty" which doesn't make sense.

I think down the road I may need to purchase the complete OEM ford fuel pump assembly and replace the whole thing, and do it right and lift the rear so I have the clearance.

When I replaced it before, I just replaced the fuel pump itself and never even disconnected the fuel lines or any of the connections to the main unit.

I think if I want to get the fuel readout accurate again, I may need to replace the whole thing (might be easiest)

input on this ?

Thanks
 






Back
Top