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So what's the favored radiator now?

07EddyB

Explorer Addict
Joined
November 18, 2011
Messages
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City, State
Bowling Green, KY
Year, Model & Trim Level
2007 Ford Explorer 4.6 V8
2007 V8. I put a Spectra CU2592 in almost 4 years ago - mileage wise that was only about 25K. I started losing coolant probably about 2 years later. It really wasn't enough to worry about and it wasn't reaching the ground. Well it's reaching the ground now. I recently put the lower pressure cap on it and it was holding coolant better - almost perfect in fact. But it's slowly leaking out and hitting the ground now.
The Spectra doesn't appear to be available - but my feelings aren't too hurt about that since it really didn't hold up that well.
Locally I can get a Carquest premium for about 270 - a Duralast for about 178 - and I can get a Motorcraft for about 280.
Normally it would be go for the OEM - but we all know they didn't really hold up either.
Buy the cheapest and plan on replacing every few years?
Buy the most expensive and also plan on replacing every few years?
No easy answer on this one. Was hoping we could start another radiator thread with what you've used and how it's held up. Again - I have installed the lower pressure cap so I'm hoping that's going to help me no matter which one I get.
 



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2007 V8. I put a Spectra CU2592 in almost 4 years ago - mileage wise that was only about 25K. I started losing coolant probably about 2 years later. It really wasn't enough to worry about and it wasn't reaching the ground. Well it's reaching the ground now. I recently put the lower pressure cap on it and it was holding coolant better - almost perfect in fact. But it's slowly leaking out and hitting the ground now.
The Spectra doesn't appear to be available - but my feelings aren't too hurt about that since it really didn't hold up that well.
Locally I can get a Carquest premium for about 270 - a Duralast for about 178 - and I can get a Motorcraft for about 280.
Normally it would be go for the OEM - but we all know they didn't really hold up either.
Buy the cheapest and plan on replacing every few years?
Buy the most expensive and also plan on replacing every few years?
No easy answer on this one. Was hoping we could start another radiator thread with what you've used and how it's held up. Again - I have installed the lower pressure cap so I'm hoping that's going to help me no matter which one I get.
I work at Autozone; we sell the Duralast radiators. They come with a lifetime warranty, and I have never seen one come back. The Duralast will be similar in quality to the Carquest. They are both likely made by the same manufacturer with different names stamped on after the fact. In my area, the local shops use Duralast radiators when repairing customers' cars.
 






2007 V8. I put a Spectra CU2592 in almost 4 years ago - mileage wise that was only about 25K. I started losing coolant probably about 2 years later. It really wasn't enough to worry about and it wasn't reaching the ground. Well it's reaching the ground now. I recently put the lower pressure cap on it and it was holding coolant better - almost perfect in fact. But it's slowly leaking out and hitting the ground now.
The Spectra doesn't appear to be available - but my feelings aren't too hurt about that since it really didn't hold up that well.
Locally I can get a Carquest premium for about 270 - a Duralast for about 178 - and I can get a Motorcraft for about 280.
Normally it would be go for the OEM - but we all know they didn't really hold up either.
Buy the cheapest and plan on replacing every few years?
Buy the most expensive and also plan on replacing every few years?
No easy answer on this one. Was hoping we could start another radiator thread with what you've used and how it's held up. Again - I have installed the lower pressure cap so I'm hoping that's going to help me no matter which one I get.
My 2004 with 4.0 SOHC was bought from the original owner in 2010. It now has 175,000 miles on it, original radiator, never add a drop of coolant. Temp. gauge holds rock steady.

What is it with all these radiator problems, anyway?
 






I replaced mine 2-3 years ago with one from Amazon. Don't remember the brand. Has held up so far with 20psi cap.
 






My 2004 with 4.0 SOHC was bought from the original owner in 2010. It now has 175,000 miles on it, original radiator, never add a drop of coolant. Temp. gauge holds rock steady.

What is it with all these radiator problems, anyway?

After you have to replace your original radiator, you will find yourself in the land of cheap Chinese parts.

Hang tough.
 






Ain't that the truth! These days seems 75%+ of all auto parts,
either from a local parts counter or RockAuto or Amazon or Ebay, are made in Mexico or Europe or Asia.
Many Ford OEM parts are stamped Canada, Mexico, Italy, Germany, Poland...
Over the last 30yrs, corporate bean counters have slowly but surely forced most production offshore,
resulting in "Made In America" parts becoming exstinct dinosaurs.
Next WorldWar, we'll quickly find ourselves in trouble with most parts in both military & civilian equipment made overseas & not available.
Yep, a big part of the effort to keep my truck on the road is trying to avoid cheap Chinese parts. And this sure is tough, with so many reputable manufacturers going overseas. Can‘t even be sure a recently replaced part is not a current problem... Dang.

You get what you pay for??? Probably, but sometimes you can not tell if you are not just spending extra money on cheap Chinese parts. And many cheap Chinese parts have nice warranties, but who wants to take their truck apart just to go get another similar cheap Chinese part? Not me. Dang.

Dang!
 






I replaced mine 2-3 years ago with one from Amazon. Don't remember the brand. Has held up so far with 20psi cap.
Time for me to replace my cap too. I don't know if it is the original or not. I had to replaced the radiator 3 years ago when I had to replace the transmission. The tranny shop told me it was a poor design by ford (2007 4.0). The cooling lines to the radiator were pressed so they had to replace the radiator when replacing the tranny. Seemed fishy to me. I asked a dealer and they backed up the story. Anyone else have to deal with that issue?
 






Time for me to replace my cap too. I don't know if it is the original or not. I had to replaced the radiator 3 years ago when I had to replace the transmission. The tranny shop told me it was a poor design by ford (2007 4.0). The cooling lines to the radiator were pressed so they had to replace the radiator when replacing the tranny. Seemed fishy to me. I asked a dealer and they backed up the story. Anyone else have to deal with that issue?
I know most places will not warranty a transmission if the radiator and/or dedicated cooler, is not replaced too. They are concerned with debris from the old transmission contaminating the cooling lines and then getting into the new transmission.

I changed my radiator about a year ago and just put a 16 psi cap on it. I haven't noticed any overheating issues and dropping off 4 psi will put less stress on the cooling system.
 






Tough to find a Motorcraft 16 PSI cap for the V8. Ended up asking for a cap for the V6, which was a 16#. Works so far.
 






Apppreciate the responses - the radiator situation has much suckage. It would be one thing if it was easy to replace but they took it to almost heater core levels. I've done it before and I'll do it again (probably a whole lot faster this time). I have a garage - I have the tools - and I actually somewhat enjoy solving problems like this. But some days I think the Explorer is trying to break me - or at least make sure I know who's in charge here.
 






I replaced mine a couple years ago with a OEM Ford rad and a Ford 16 lb cap. No issues so far. I also installed a Simmons aluminum thermostat housing at the same time with a Ford thermostat.
 






Mine started leaking at 150k on our v8 6-7 years ago ????. Replaced it with Spectra, it was about $ 190. Took me almost all day to replace it :(
Still good at 301k to my surprise. But I wouldn't be surprised if I see drops again.
 






2007 V8. I put a Spectra CU2592 in almost 4 years ago - mileage wise that was only about 25K. I started losing coolant probably about 2 years later. It really wasn't enough to worry about and it wasn't reaching the ground. Well it's reaching the ground now. I recently put the lower pressure cap on it and it was holding coolant better - almost perfect in fact. But it's slowly leaking out and hitting the ground now.
The Spectra doesn't appear to be available - but my feelings aren't too hurt about that since it really didn't hold up that well.
Locally I can get a Carquest premium for about 270 - a Duralast for about 178 - and I can get a Motorcraft for about 280.
Normally it would be go for the OEM - but we all know they didn't really hold up either.
Buy the cheapest and plan on replacing every few years?
Buy the most expensive and also plan on replacing every few years?
No easy answer on this one. Was hoping we could start another radiator thread with what you've used and how it's held up. Again - I have installed the lower pressure cap so I'm hoping that's going to help me no matter which one I get.
I also have a 2007 V8 Ex with 155K on the clock, Ex is 100% stock, bought new and run synthetics all around and have had no serious maintenance issues, just the normal service stuff. That said, I'm now seeing a coolant leak and upon investigation found that the top plastic part of the factory radiator under the expansion tank has developed a hair line crack. Where are you guys seeing your leaks develop? I've tried some JB Weld on the crack and that worked for awhile, however, now leaking again. I'm considering trying one of those soldering iron units with the plastic like welding rod, first to "V" out the crack then fill with the rod. Anyone else tried and had success with this method?
 






I also have a 2007 V8 Ex with 155K on the clock, Ex is 100% stock, bought new and run synthetics all around and have had no serious maintenance issues, just the normal service stuff. That said, I'm now seeing a coolant leak and upon investigation found that the top plastic part of the factory radiator under the expansion tank has developed a hair line crack. Where are you guys seeing your leaks develop? I've tried some JB Weld on the crack and that worked for awhile, however, now leaking again. I'm considering trying one of those soldering iron units with the plastic like welding rod, first to "V" out the crack then fill with the rod. Anyone else tried and had success with this method?
Heat and pressure applied to compromised plastic makes me think this won't be a long term fix either. Then again, what do you have to lose for trying?
 






2007 V8. I put a Spectra CU2592 in almost 4 years ago - mileage wise that was only about 25K. I started losing coolant probably about 2 years later. It really wasn't enough to worry about and it wasn't reaching the ground. Well it's reaching the ground now. I recently put the lower pressure cap on it and it was holding coolant better - almost perfect in fact. But it's slowly leaking out and hitting the ground now.
The Spectra doesn't appear to be available - but my feelings aren't too hurt about that since it really didn't hold up that well.
Locally I can get a Carquest premium for about 270 - a Duralast for about 178 - and I can get a Motorcraft for about 280.
Normally it would be go for the OEM - but we all know they didn't really hold up either.
Buy the cheapest and plan on replacing every few years?
Buy the most expensive and also plan on replacing every few years?
No easy answer on this one. Was hoping we could start another radiator thread with what you've used and how it's held up. Again - I have installed the lower pressure cap so I'm hoping that's going to help me no matter which one I get.
I, too, purchased a Spectra radiator about three years ago. I have a 2007 V6. Something felt odd when I as attaching the transmission cooler lines. Sure enough, about a week later, when I checked my coolant level, it was a tan, bubbly mess. Transmission oil leaking into the engine coolant. And, vice versa - which is a much bigger problem. I replaced the radiator, put new coolant in, drained and refilled the transmission fluid, and said a prayer. But, the damage was done. The clutch packs in the transmission use a water soluble adhesive, and water kills them. A month later, the transmission failed. Put in a claim with Autozone, but after stalling me for a week, they denied my claim. Apparently they limit their liability to replacing the failed part. I'm sure I would have had more luck if I were a professional repairer (commercial customer). So, I'm out $3,000 for a rebuilt transmission. Will never purchase a Spectra part again, nor set foot in an Autozone. Hope this helps...
 






You guys had to talk about Radiators! On my way to work this morning I got a whiff of coolant. I now see that radiator number 3 has split the top tank. Well, at least this one lasted 11 years!

A33127D3-7C23-49A2-8A0A-8EF7D7295A40.jpeg
 






Eleven years is a decent run. How many miles were driven in the eleven years?
 






You guys had to talk about Radiators! On my way to work this morning I got a whiff of coolant. I now see that radiator number 3 has split the top tank. Well, at least this one lasted 11 years!

View attachment 327368
My first ever plastic tank was found on my '78 Fiesta, bought new. Owned two more after that one, radiators were the only problem encountered, in addition to water pumps. I always suspected that the rigidly-mounted radiators were being flexed by the unitized body parts up front, causing early failure, but never bothered to contrive a remedy. Two of those cars were sold still running well with 200,000+ miles on them. 1.6L English "Kent" engine, substantially well-engineered.
 






Probably about 130,000 miles on this one, it has had a very slight drip from where the aluminium meets the plastic for about 5 years, And I have been running the £16 cap instead of the factory 20 since then.

I bought the truck new in June 2006, rad replaced under warranty in 2008, and again in March of 2009 Just before the warranty ran out, so I’m ok with this. Just deciding about what brand to go with
 



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Maybe around 100k is when they seem to go bad. Mine was replaced at just over the 100k mark.
 






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