SOHC Engine Removal/Rebuild/Install - Done!

[donalds]

 

[ptf18]

Koda... Certainly enjoy reading about this engine "project" of yours. Sort of makes me "think" of finding a "spare" engine for the wifes "02 and do like wise..... naw, have too much stuff going on. If anything I probably should look into rebuilding a transmission for her S/T even though with 240k on the meter she hasn't had any "issues" to date.

Couple of things. As for the o-rings for the oil filter adapter. I went thru the same "head scratching" when I had to fix the leaking adapter on the wifes S/T...except in was in the vehicle and a bear to get to being that the exhaust manifold was in the way. Was real tempted to install a remote adapter but in the end used the OEM unit. If you noticed the o-ring groove cut in the adapter is... SQUARE....with very sharp edges From what I found the "original" o-ring for this similar adapter (same setup in other Ford vehicles) was a square one. I "think" I found a Ford P/N "square" oring NOS but was concerned that due to its age I may have "problems" with it. Prior to laying the "round" o-ring" into the SQUARE groove I deburred the groove as I was concerned that if the o-ring "squished" out when I tightened the retaining nut the o-ring may get cut. Once I had the adapter installed and the bolt torqued it is real hard to inspect to see if the o-ring "squished" out. Hasn't leaked in the 10k miles or so.

Have a question about these engines. If the engine is a "interference" valve train type of engine ( I think thats the term) couldn't the pistons have been "relief" cut so the valves couldn't hit the pistons?

It's interesting to read about the valve train system installation your going thru. Not having ever done one, it was my understanding that the various required FORD tools locked the various engine pieces in place and then the "builder" simply connected those pieces together with the chains. It sounds more complicated than that.

I'll continue to watch your posts.

ptf18

 

[koda2000]

Koda... Certainly enjoy reading about this engine "project" of yours. Sort of makes me "think" of finding a "spare" engine for the wifes "02 and do like wise..... naw, have too much stuff going on. If anything I probably should look into rebuilding a transmission for her S/T even though with 240k on the meter she hasn't had any "issues" to date.

Couple of things. As for the o-rings for the oil filter adapter. I went thru the same "head scratching" when I had to fix the leaking adapter on the wifes S/T...except in was in the vehicle and a bear to get to being that the exhaust manifold was in the way. Was real tempted to install a remote adapter but in the end used the OEM unit. If you noticed the o-ring groove cut in the adapter is... SQUARE....with very sharp edges From what I found the "original" o-ring for this similar adapter (same setup in other Ford vehicles) was a square one. I "think" I found a Ford P/N "square" oring NOS but was concerned that due to its age I may have "problems" with it. Prior to laying the "round" o-ring" into the SQUARE groove I deburred the groove as I was concerned that if the o-ring "squished" out when I tightened the retaining nut the o-ring may get cut. Once I had the adapter installed and the bolt torqued it is real hard to inspect to see if the o-ring "squished" out. Hasn't leaked in the 10k miles or so.

Have a question about these engines. If the engine is a "interference" valve train type of engine ( I think thats the term) couldn't the pistons have been "relief" cut so the valves couldn't hit the pistons?

It's interesting to read about the valve train system installation your going thru. Not having ever done one, it was my understanding that the various required FORD tools locked the various engine pieces in place and then the "builder" simply connected those pieces together with the chains. It sounds more complicated than that.

I'll continue to watch your posts.

ptf18

Yes, the 4.0L is an "interference engine". If you cams get out of time you will smack your valves. I've never heard of anyone trying to cut reliefs into the pistons. Seems to me doing this could cause other undesirable consequences.

As far as requiring special tools, yes you need a special tool to remove the cam followers, but it's quite inexpensive (I think I paid around $20 for the one I've used). Then it is recommended you also use the camshaft timing tool set to time your cams. This tool kit is expensive at over $200 new, but I found a nice pre-owned one on eBay for 1/2 the price. There are Chinese copies of the cam timing tool set available for around $60 new, but I figured this procedure is too critical for trusting Chinese junk.

Like with most things, there are different ways to "skin a cat", so for those with the ability to think outside the box there are work-a-rounds to be found. In my case, I needed the cam timing tool set because I had to replace my heads. At this stage I could take my heads apart again to remove the cam followers, but as long as I time the cams and lock them in place with the heads off the block and make sure the crankshaft is locked down at TDC cyl #1 there is not difference.

If you want a really good idea of what's involved with replacing you timing components I highly recommend you watch the 4-part YouTube video series by fordtechmakuloco (link below). I've watched this series multiple times to gain incite into how and why to proceed. I also keep my laptop in the garage during reassembly for reference when needed.

YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

www.youtube.com

 

[koda2000]

It was pretty rewarding day today.

My new oil pickup tube arrived in the mail. I ended up having to remove the balance shaft assembly yet again to get access to the 3 torx bolts that hold the pickup tube to the oil pump, which was okay because I needed to fix a mistake I made in timing the balance shaft gear to the reversing weight. I thought I remembered the reversing weight dot lining up to the left side seam of the BS assembly, but checking my notes last night I realized that it has to line up to the seam on the right side. Easily corrected at this point. I torqued the BS chain guide, tensioner, BS assembly to engine bolts to spec and pulled the grenade pin on the BS tensioner.

Next I installed the new front timing chain sprocket on the jackshaft, installed the front TC cassette and chain, cassette lower retaining bolt, upper and lower JS sprockets (front JS bolt loosely for now) and chain, JS chain guide and tensioner and torqued all the associated bolts (except the front JS bolt). Other than pulling the grenade pin on the JS tensioner that's it for the front TC parts.

Moving on to the rear timing chain, I installed the rear JS spacer, new rear JS gear and chain, (rear JS bolt loosely installed for now) finally I installed the rear cassette and lower cassette bolt and torqued it to spec.

This evening I may reinstall the engine cradle and lower oil pan with new gaskets and torque that all down (another involved 4.0L SOHC procedure). I'm debating what to do about the paint on the inside of my lower oil pan. I'd soaked it overnight in Purple Power and now the paint on the inside of the pan is flaking off. If I had some paint stripper handy I'd just strip the paint off the inside. We're "sheltering in place" right now so I don't want to go out, but maybe I'll have my daughter pick up some paint stripper when she goes to work on Monday night so I can do this. I'm probably being OCD about the flaking paint, but... I'm an OCD kind of guy.

Pictures as soon as my camera finishes recharging.

 

[koda2000]

Pics:

 

[donalds]

Gotta feel good well done so far looking forward to more

 

[koda2000]

A productive afternoon today...

After pulling the grenade pin out of the jack shaft tensioner (which is strangely satisfying to do) I prepped my front engine cover, replaced the front crank shaft/harmonic balancer seal, installed the engine cover and torqued it down. Then I remembered that I will still need to torque my front jack shaft bolt (crap! - sequence error). Off came the front cover again. No harm done. Next I installed the engine cradle (AKA the upper oil pan) which included installing the upper pan gasket w/some Ultra Black in the corners and seams, aligning the cradle to the block at the rear (very important), torqued down the cradle perimeter bolts, torqued down the cradle stand-offs (which have a ridiculously low torque spec of 27 inch pounds/2.25 foot pounds). My inch pound torque wrench beings at 50 inch pounds, so I just ran the stand-offs in until they made contact + a tiny bit of pre-load. I installed the oil pickup screen and poured a little oil into the new oil pump to lube it. Installed the eight 13mm center cradle bolts (the front-most 2 with new sealing washers) and torqued them down in the prescribed 2-step procedure and sequence. Lastly I installed by lower oil pan with its new gasket and torqued it down.

Next I will be installing the cylinder head gaskets and heads (with the cams pre-timed and cly #1 on TDC). With a little luck I may be ready to stab the engine back into the truck by the end of the week, but there's still a lot of work to do. Can't wait to hear it run again.

 

[donalds]

Looking real good I must say

 

[CDW6212R]

Looks good yes, but is the procedure to do the timing parts before the heads? I don't know how the manual says to do it, I just think of the heads to be a natural step right after the bare short block.

 

[koda2000]

Looks good yes, but is the procedure to do the timing parts before the heads? I don't know how the manual says to do it, I just think of the heads to be a natural step right after the bare short block.

If you think about how the cams are timed (if that's what your referring to) the cams and crankshaft have nothing to do with each other until they're set and locked down. Both are set/timed totally independent of each other using the OTC 6488 tools. This being the case, I don't see any problem with timing them separately before reuniting them.

If you concern is that I'm installing the timing parts in the block before the heads are bolted on... not only does it make no difference, but it's much easier to do it this way if the heads happen to be off. This is the way my engine was disassembled. making it easier for me to remove my broken timing parts once the head were out of the way. So, I see no issues with reassembling the engine in the same order. Just because a shop manual (or common practice) says to do something a particular way doesn't mean it can't be done differently.

To my knowledge there are no YouTube videos on replacing Ford 4.0L SOHC timing components where there were also head related issues. So (like Frank Sinatra) I'm doing it my way. If I run into something I have not accounted for, I'll be the first to admit I was wrong.

 

[koda2000]

Dry fit - Timing my camshafts on the workbench and installing assembled heads on the engine:

For any of you who were concerned that you couldn't/shouldn't install the timing components into the engine, time the camshafts on fully assembled heads on the workbench and the install the heads on the engine. I just did it and it was a piece of cake.

Using the OTC 6488 cam timing tool set...
1) I set the crankshaft at TDC cyl #1
2) I took my fully assembled left cyl head and installed the OTC tool pieces that set the timing and lock the camshaft in place
3) leaving the rear camshaft timing/locking tool in place, I presented the head to the engine
3) I threaded the front cam chain through the head (using a bungee cord) and set the head on the engine's dowel pins
4) I installed my new LH cam gear in the timing chain and loosely installed the gear and chain on the camshaft
5) I installed the T30 upper cassette bolt
6) I installed and tightened down the OTC tensioner tool in the head and tightened it down to set the chain tension
7) I reinstalled the front cam gear locking tool and torqued the cam bolt to 63 foot pounds

Done. Took me all of maybe 10 mins, 30 seconds of which were installing the timed head on the timed engine. No struggling or fiddling required. Doing the RH head should be even easier.

 

[CDW6212R]

I just figured that putting the heads on would be easier with the cam chain off completely still. I forgot that there are two tools for each end of the cam, to hold and time it. I see that timing it and leaving the back end locked onto the cam, lets the head go on easily still, just set the cam chain onto the cam gear and tighten it.

Have you set the timing cover onto the block yet at all? I wonder how your cover matches the left block edge, which is where the TDC tool touches. I thought mine were just about the same, but maybe some timing covers might have a bottom edge that drops lower than the block edge, which would alter the timing. That thought is why I planned to set the TDC by the #1 piston instead of the tool, making a TDC pointer(degree wheel) on the balancer to identify TDC, to do the timing. I still plan to, I hope to get to it in the next month or two.

 

[koda2000]

I just figured that putting the heads on would be easier with the cam chain off completely still. I forgot that there are two tools for each end of the cam, to hold and time it. I see that timing it and leaving the back end locked onto the cam, lets the head go on easily still, just set the cam chain onto the cam gear and tighten it.

Have you set the timing cover onto the block yet at all? I wonder how your cover matches the left block edge, which is where the TDC tool touches. I thought mine were just about the same, but maybe some timing covers might have a bottom edge that drops lower than the block edge, which would alter the timing. That thought is why I planned to set the TDC by the #1 piston instead of the tool, making a TDC pointer(degree wheel) on the balancer to identify TDC, to do the timing. I still plan to, I hope to get to it in the next month or two.

If you've watched fordteckmakuloco's videos you'll see that he has to struggle with both the front and rear cam chains, both when removing them and installing the new ones. Especially removing the front cassette. Installing the new front cassette is easier than removing the old one because the new one comes apart at the hinge point via a removable "C" clip, but then you have to remove your jack shaft to have room to put it back together again. The rear chain and gear is also a little tricky with the heads in place. If you're not removing/installing your heads replacing the timing components can obviously still be done, but it makes that part of the job more fiddly.

Yes, I had the TDC tool on yesterday with the timing cover fully installed. The tool misses my timing cover completely and the arm on it comes to rest on the block's edge where it's supposed to contact. I also have the ability to double check TDC because my heads are still off and because my front cover is currently off.

 

[donalds]

Tip if you don't already know use your harmonic balancer to line up your timing cover before you tighten down your bolts


Seal must be in the cover

Poor alignment will cause a oil leak

 

[koda2000]

Tip if you don't already know use your harmonic balancer to line up your timing cover before you tighten down your bolts


Seal must be in the cover

Poor alignment will cause a oil leak

Yes, I know this.

 

[donalds]

Yes, I know this.

Just thought I'd mention it because no one else has
Man smart you are says yoda


Clean clean clean Sooo when you gonna build me one ill pay lol

 

[koda2000]

Just thought I'd mention it because no one else has
Man smart you are says yoda

Clean clean clean Sooo when you gonna build me one ill pay lol

Yes, the force is strong in this one.

Build another 4.0L SOHC engine? No thanks. Honestly, besides pulling the engine out of the truck (which was a major PITA for me) the worst part of this job has been cleaning stuff.

 

[koda2000]

I just finished up final deck prep and I placed my new MLS head gaskets on the block. Tomorrow the plan is to get the heads on and torqued down. IDK if I'll be able to do the final torque angle on the head bolts with the engine on the stand (even with my daughters help). I was thinking maybe if I chain one end of my engine stand to the hitch on the Mountaineer, put my tow strap from the other end to my EB and pull it taught I can manage the 90 degrees necessary. Makes me wish I had @boominXplorer's forklift to hold it.

 

[koda2000]

A busy day in the garage today...

- Both cams timed and locked down
- New cam gears installed and torqued down
- New hydraulic tensioners installed w/new washers and torqued to spec
- Both heads installed on the engine with new TTY head bolts (12mm bolts torqued to stage-1 26 FP and
final torque of 24 FP on the little 8mm bolts). Man I hate torquing the long skinny 8mm bolts. They always
feel like they're gonna break before the torque wrench finally clicks.
- Installed new TTY front & rear jack shaft bolts (not torqued to spec yet, as JS needs to be held)

It amazes me how many tools were needed just to reinstall the heads...
- OTC 6488 cam timing tool kit
- 10mm, 11mm, 17mm 8mm sockets and an Allen socket for the OTC 6488 kit parts
- 19mm socket for the cam bolts
- T30 torx socket for the small cassette bolts
- e socket for the front JS bolt
- Torx socket for the rear JS bolt
- 3/8" drive inch pound torque wrench
- 3/8" drive foot pound torque wrench
- 1/2" drive foot pound torque wrench
- T55 torx socket for 12mm head bolts
- e socket for the 8mm head bolts
- 3/8" ratchet and various extensions
- 1/2" ratchet and various extensions
- 1/2" breaker bar & cheater pipe
- various 3/8" and 1/2" socket adapters
- Miscellaneous screw drivers, pliers, hammers, a magnet on a stick
- 1-15/16" socket for the hydraulic tensionsers
- An oil can
- Blue shop towels and shop rags
- Parts cleaner

Plus I'm sure I'm forgetting other stuff used.

Tomorrow will be "feats of strength" [a Seinfeld reference] with my daughter attempting to achieve two 90 degree final 12mm head bolt torquing steps with the engine on the wheeled engine stand. Looking forward to that challenge. If we can't get it I'll finish the torque with the engine installed in the truck.

The pile of remaining parts is daunting, but doing what I can each day will eventually get it done.

Sorry for the blurriness of some of the pictures. My flash isn't working and I think it's too dark in my garage.

 

[CDW6212R]

Well done, and your daughter will not mind being around that engine I bet. It's all nice clean parts, people aren't used to clean engine parts, and seeing them opened up is cool for most people.