rmcknight
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- December 10, 2005
- Messages
- 202
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Melbourne, Australia
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2004 4.6 SOHC v8 Explorer
I have 1998 SOHC 4*4 Explorer 4 door.
There is a lot of info on this already but here in another way.
I have just done the Front Cam Tensioner to fix the timing chain rattle on startup and thought this may be of some use to others, here it goes:
1) Remove plastic splash cover (4 screws)
2) Remove upper plastic intake manifold:
a) do not remove throttle or cruise cables,
b) remove all vacuum lines (several, including the 2 held by plastic locks, just pull out the plastic)
c) do not remove IAC valve, at rear back top - the vacuum line pulls out of the back of it.
d) remove air intake, loosen band
e) using power drill, unscrew the 8 long screws holding the upper portion of the intake manifold, there are 2 hidden at far back of engine
f) lift and flip to side over cables
3) Replace Tensioner
a) locate old Tensioner, right next on left of thermostat housing
b) remove the sensor to the left of big 1+1/8" Tensioner bolt, use large socket to do this.
c) remove fuel line to right injector header, 2 screws, twist and pull out - move the fuel line to gain access to the Tensioner as needed
d) if needed - unscrew 2 bolds holding the EGR pipe, the large pipe that goes into the upper manifold that made it a pain to take off - this will enable you to bend and play with this assembly to gain access to the Tensioner
e) grab and unscrew the old Tensioner, i tried shifter but could not get angle needed, ended up using robogrip, you could use 1+1/8" ring spanner
f) cover the hole with tape so nothing falls down there.
4) Volume reduction stick
a) unscrew the small torx screw right behind the Tensioner (pipe plug)
b) put in the plastic pencil (oil volume reducer)
c) screw in the plug
5) new Tensioner
a) put the new washer on the Tensioner and tape it up the top so it doesn’t fall down on a funny angle
b) remove tape from hole cover and push the new Tensioner into the hole, you way need to finesse this pushing and turning can be hard.
6) put it all back together
7) go for a drive
Time to pull down to tensioner = 1 hour.
Time to replace the tensioner = 15min to 2 hours (depends on tools and how good you are getting the old one out, the old one will be done up real, real tight - in fact way to tight for an alloy thread!).
Time to put back together = 30 mins.
Someone has just loaded the Pics for me here: http://community.webshots.com/album/531249110ONAXId
There is a lot of info on this already but here in another way.
I have just done the Front Cam Tensioner to fix the timing chain rattle on startup and thought this may be of some use to others, here it goes:
1) Remove plastic splash cover (4 screws)
2) Remove upper plastic intake manifold:
a) do not remove throttle or cruise cables,
b) remove all vacuum lines (several, including the 2 held by plastic locks, just pull out the plastic)
c) do not remove IAC valve, at rear back top - the vacuum line pulls out of the back of it.
d) remove air intake, loosen band
e) using power drill, unscrew the 8 long screws holding the upper portion of the intake manifold, there are 2 hidden at far back of engine
f) lift and flip to side over cables
3) Replace Tensioner
a) locate old Tensioner, right next on left of thermostat housing
b) remove the sensor to the left of big 1+1/8" Tensioner bolt, use large socket to do this.
c) remove fuel line to right injector header, 2 screws, twist and pull out - move the fuel line to gain access to the Tensioner as needed
d) if needed - unscrew 2 bolds holding the EGR pipe, the large pipe that goes into the upper manifold that made it a pain to take off - this will enable you to bend and play with this assembly to gain access to the Tensioner
e) grab and unscrew the old Tensioner, i tried shifter but could not get angle needed, ended up using robogrip, you could use 1+1/8" ring spanner
f) cover the hole with tape so nothing falls down there.
4) Volume reduction stick
a) unscrew the small torx screw right behind the Tensioner (pipe plug)
b) put in the plastic pencil (oil volume reducer)
c) screw in the plug
5) new Tensioner
a) put the new washer on the Tensioner and tape it up the top so it doesn’t fall down on a funny angle
b) remove tape from hole cover and push the new Tensioner into the hole, you way need to finesse this pushing and turning can be hard.
6) put it all back together
7) go for a drive
Time to pull down to tensioner = 1 hour.
Time to replace the tensioner = 15min to 2 hours (depends on tools and how good you are getting the old one out, the old one will be done up real, real tight - in fact way to tight for an alloy thread!).
Time to put back together = 30 mins.
Someone has just loaded the Pics for me here: http://community.webshots.com/album/531249110ONAXId
