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SOHC V6 Supercharger

The purpose of this thread is to discuss the design and possible development and installation of a supercharger for my 2000 Sport SOHC V6 engine. I have no first hand experience with forced induction systems and want to learn from forum members that have them on their vehicles. While I don't plan to implement a turbocharger system, there are many problems common to all types of forced induction systems.

The easiest and least expensive solution would be to modify a Ranger SOHC V6 Banshee kit and purchase a used Thunderbird supercoupe positive displacement blower. However, the kit makes no provisions for an aftercooler which I think is beneficial even with only 5 psi of boost.

The Explorer Express supercharger kit includes a quality looking manifold but one is very difficult to obtain.

Once again, there are no provisions for an aftercooler.

I suspect the best solution for me would be a centrifugal supercharger with a water aftercooler. With my oil coolers and remote filters I have very little room in front of the radiator for an intercooler. I am interested in a boost in the range of 5 to 8 psi - enough for a significant performance increase but not so much to adversely impact reliability and require beefing up of engine internals or the transmission/torque converter.

Procharger sells a kit for the 2005 - 2010 Mustang V6.

But the Mustang configuration is opposit to the Explorer - intake on left and battery on right. Also, there is a lot more room between the engine front and the radiator rear on the Mustang than on the Explorer.

Vortech also makes a kit for the Mustang but there are the same problems.


The logical location for a centrifugal supercharger is the same side as the air filter box and intake manifold inlet port. Unfortunately, that is where the alternator is located. I'm investigating the possibility of replacing the belt driven power steering pump with an electric motor driven pump and then relocating the alternator to the old power steering pump location.

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Off topic you should have thrown some paint on that know your going to be showing it off alot;) lol

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no paint

I considered painting the M90 but it took me 4 days to strip almost all of the old paint off and I was anxious to proceed. I actually like the look of brushed or polished aluminum as much as paint for blowers. I may spend a little time with a brush mounted on my Dremel. You're right about the interest in the final product. Everyone locally that has been involved so far (muffler shop, alternator shop, fabrication shop and dyno shop) has asked me to stop by when I get it running.

boost gauge port fitting change

Upon closer examination of my mechanical boost gauge (Auto Meter 2601) package

I found that there are compression fittings for connecting the supplied semi-rigid boost/vacuum hose.

Therefore I've decided to remove the installed boost gauge fittings (and the hose I connected)

and replace it with a 1/8-27 MPT 90 degree elbow.

that mates with one of the compression fittings. I removed the plastic plug in the plenum on the passenger side

and installed the removed boost fittings and hose there for connecting to the vacuum reservoir bulb located under the air filter enclosure.

IAC valve issues

I had planned to build a bracket and mount it on the side of the M90 for the IAC valve and the EGR vacuum regulator (EVR). Unfortunately, when I test fit the idea I realized that the IAC valve inlet would interfere with the oil fill port.

I looked for alternatives and decided to mount the IAC valve on its own bracket in the approximate position shown below.

The IAC valve outlet to the plenum will either come out the top of the box or out of the back.

The new location will allow routing the EGR pipe out of the way above the driver side fuel rail.

EVR issues

The decision not to mount the IAC valve and the EVR on the same bracket allowed me to use the EVR bracket supplied with the Banshee kit as shown below with the prototype on a Ranger.

Unfortunately, when I installed the bracket the fuel rail hold down interfered with the lower tip of the EVR.

I plan to move the hold down one screw position forward to avoid the interference. I hope to route the EGR pipe above the EVR.


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potential idle air flow restriction

I planned to route 3/8" diameter hose from the primary IAC valve outlet to the 3/8" barb port in the plenum.

Ron had mentioned in past correspondence that: [On my by-pass in the spacer I found even 1/4" was too small, as had to drill out to 3/8"]. The bung installed in the main intake tube pre-throttle plate hose coupler is 3/8" NPT. I ordered a 45 degree 3/8" MPT x 1/2" barb fitting to connect 1/2" dia. hose to the IAC valve inlet. Surprisingly, during an internet search I was unable to find a specified internal diameter for a 3/8" NPT fillting but I measured one of mine to be 3/8". Last night when looking over the Banshee kit parts list I noticed that all of the plenum taps are 1/8" NPT. I measured the internal diameter of an on hand spare 1/8" fitting and found it to be about 0.18 inches. I am concerned that the plenum 1/8" MPTx 3/8" barb fitting will restrict air flow. The IAC valve may not be able to control the idle speed. Fortunately, when I had my main intake post-throttle plate coupler fabricated I requested two 3/8" bungs be installed 90 degrees apart.

I now plan to install a 1/2" MPT x 1/2" barb 90 degree elbow in the IAC valve outlet and route 1/2" dia. hose to a 3/8" MPT x 1/2" barb fitting installed in the previously plugged bung. I also will replace the 1/8" MPT x 3/8" barb straight and 90 deg elbow in the plenum with 1/8" MPT x 1/8" barb adapters. One will go to the EVR and one will go to the evap emissions canister purge valve.

I'm a little concerned about potential vacuum flow restriction for the 1/8" MPT x 3/8" barb fitting that connects the plenum to the power brake booster. I purchased new grommets for the booster check valve and will measure its port when I replace them. If larger than 0.18" I will be watchful for braking performance degradation.

EGR tube

The compression fittings that with the Banshee kit to extend the EGR tube are for 5/8" outside diameter tubing. I think they may fit 1/2" internal diameter copper tubing. I think the melting point of copper solder for copper pipes exceeds 350 degrees F. I wonder if I could use standard copper fittings and solder them in place to route the EGR pipe extension as I desire.

EGR valve & pipe routing

I'm trying to keep the area directly above the coilpack open for adding a second coilpack associated with my potential dual fire ignition system

I searched the internet for another EGR valve with the same bolt pattern that connects to the EGR pipe at a horizontal and forward angle but didn't find anything suitable. I'm considering asking my machinist if he can cut off the "spout" and weld it on at a different direction but there is not much room between the seat of the valve and the spout. I may purchase a new EGR valve to replace my still functional stock valve. Then I can have the machinist cut up the stock one to see if the spout can be rerouted.

Edit: I just received confirmation that my offer of $48 (with free shipping) for a new Motorcraft CX-1631 EGR valve was accepted. When I receive it I'll take the old one to the machinist for modification evaluation (cut off the snout and see if the valve seat is still OK).

The Banshee kit includes 90 degree elbow compression fittings for rerouting the EGR tube. The flared tube that mates with the EGR valve is cut off and used to connect to the compression fitting.

I realized that 1/2" copper tubing has about the same outside diameter as the stock EGR tube so I might be able to use shorter, lighter weight and less expensive standard copper fittings. There are 45 degree elbow copper fittings but no 45 degree elbow compression fittings available for purchase. I cut the stock tube as close as possible to the flare leaving just enough room for the depth of the copper fitting and room for the attaching nut to easily rotate. Then I tapped the copper fitting on the cut flared pipe for evaluation of the inverted position.

I'll evaluate the upright position tomorrow.

Metal is better

While at Home Depot to pick up some 16 gauge sheet metal to use as a mounting bracket for the IAC valve I happened to check for new weather tight electrical boxes. I found one that is all metal with five 1/2" NPT ports (top, bottom, back & both sides. I also found a matching metal blank cover plate with gasket.

It only came with two plugs so I'll have to purchase one more.

The mounting method is inadequate (screws won't tighten the tabs) but the rest is very usable.

Also, my thermostat metal lower housing arrived yesterday. I'll start installing it as soon as I receive my ordered sensors and retaining clips.

On the egr and copper pipe, just make sure you use compression fittings. I had hoped as I moved further away from the exhaust manifold I could use solder connections. No joy, stripped the solder off.

I know it was wishful thinking, but I tried. I also tried using high temp epoxy. No joy there either. Compression fittings all the way.

solder & epoxy

Thanks for the information and preventing me from trying things that won't work. I think the stock EGR tube is probably mild steel. It didn't look like brass when I cut it. I did a little searching and apparently it is possible to braze copper to mild steel and copper to copper using Easy Flo 45 that melts at 1125 deg F. I have not been able to find (anywhere on the internet) a 45 degree compression union.


You might be able to get away with solder if it is closer to the intake than the exhaust manifold. I used this experimental set up when I first put the M112 on and it held up. I have since switched to the lightning plenum and different EGR setup. If it was closer to the exhaust manifold it would probably melt the solder.


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It appears that what didn't work for me might still work. In my case, I was having so many egr issues (It even had fitment issues when I went with the headers) and had James do an egr delete. My egr system was the weak link in my setup, and as a daily driver I was spending way too much time trying different things to get a solid setup. Egr delete was a very good decision for me, but my preference would have been to keep it.

EGR delete

I would only consider deleting the EGR capability if my main purpose was racing since the PCM disables the EGR under moderate to full load anyway. However, I think that having a functional EGR will extend the life of the engine by reducing combustion chamber temperatures. That may be even more important with forced induction.

I would only consider deleting the EGR capability if my main purpose was racing since the PCM disables the EGR under moderate to full load anyway. However, I think that having a functional EGR will extend the life of the engine by reducing combustion chamber temperatures. That may be even more important with forced induction.
I agree that EGR is a good thing (For many reasons), and you should do your best to retain it.


One thing to mention was the solder joints in that picture were on the intake side of the egr valve which stays cool until the valve is opened. I had a different set up that blew apart when the solder melted as well. It was closer to the exhaust manifold. I am still using the 90 degree compression fitting to join a copper pipe to the original pipe. Seems to work well, holds up under the heat and pressure.
I also used an egr valve off a 2002 Explorer with 4.0 at one time. It had a 90 degree bend instead of the 45 degree bend that the 98 explorer has.

2002 EGR valve

I considered buying one of the 2002 Explorer EGR valves because it appeared that it would mate with the plenum. However, it requires a male fitting instead of a female for the pipe.

Also, if I mounted it upright I would need two 90 degree elbows since the port would face the firewall. If I mounted it inverted the port would be facing the plenum vacuum fittings/hoses.

The ideal EGR valve would have a spout angled slightly downward and pointing toward the open space as indicated below.

That's why I plan to have my machinist determine if the snout can be cut off without damaging the valve seat and then weld it back on at the desired angle.

I've examined my valve and the seat appears to be above the red line in the above photo. The housing is magnetic and I assume it is cast iron which I think can be welded.

I'm not real concerned about being able to route the pipe after I get the correct spout angle. If I have to I'll get a length of flexible corrugated pipe of the desired length and end fittings fabricated like what is offered in ModdBox's new M90 kit.

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Very Nice!
I didn't know that an egr pipe could be made like that. I would have gone that route also had I known.