(SOLVED) Anti Theft Light Flashing On Dash Nightmare | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free! This box and some ads will disappear once registered!

(SOLVED) Anti Theft Light Flashing On Dash Nightmare

jmvb

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 19, 2015
Messages
198
Reaction score
5
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Explorer XLT
I was changing the lower intake oring

Suddenly, a lower intake cap screw was bad... unluckily, the one further back

I did several manoeuvres to get lose it... one of them manoeuvres, was drill it..

When I was drilling, the drill slipped, and touch the wiring harness...

I taked a simple look of this, and all looks fine.

I changed the orings, reassembled all, and got the Anti Theft Light Flashing On Dash... No check engine light (even with the key in on) , engine does crank, but doesn't start...

Back to the harness, and 1 wire was cut, and a few others, only the cover damaged.

Welded the cutted one, insulated the damaged covers, and, check engine light is back, and Anti Theft Light Flashing...

My scanner tool was not able to connect with the vehicle, so I guess that the ECU do not have electric power

ok guys.. my turn to contribute.... I just went through this same problem with my 2000 explorer... damn anti theft light blinking, not starting.... after spending $350 at the local dealer and not fixing the problem I got mine fixed... It was a simple electronic relay switch. under hood, drivers side.. relay # FOAB-14B192-AA about 1"square relay..
repair relay part # listed as: FOAZ-14N089-A about $20 for the relay...
works perfect now.... what a headache.... perfectly maintained, but wouldn't start because of a faulty relay switch... needless to say the original $350 was money thrown away for nothing...

repair sheet states: NO START. THEFT LIGHT BLINKS RUN SELF TEST. NO COMMUNICATION WITH PCM. TEST PCM POWER & GROUND CIRCUITS. NO VOLTAGE PRESENT AT PCM CONNECTOR. PCM POWER RELAY STICKING, CAUSING NO START CONCERN. REPLACE PCM POWER RELAY, RUN SELF TEST AND REPAIRED VERIFIED...

hope this helps someone else and eliminates a great deal of unnecessary headaches..

good luck... shwpony2010bc

Checked this relay, changed it by another which take under the hood, and nothing

Engine does not start: LED flashes rapidly...

Leave ignition on until the LED starts to flash a 2 digit code (sequence/pause/sequence)
Check the following codes:
Code flashes:
1:3 Key code not received. Is key screened by other keys or objects? Try different key: if okay then first key is faulty. If not go to dealer.
1:4 Partial code only received. Try again. If not okay use different key. If not go to dealer.
1:5 Key not programmed into PATS. Program key(s) using locksmith/dealer, or 2 keys of your own which work.
1:6 Faulty link between PATS module and EECV. Go to dealer.

I got the 1:6 pattern... still some wire cutted?
EECV is the ECU, right?
 
<

Join the Elite Explorers $20 Gets rid of the ads!

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create and save more private conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.




koda2000

Explorer Addict
Joined
September 2, 2011
Messages
13,852
Reaction score
1,502
Year, Model & Trim Level
x
Check your fuses. I believe fuse #17 is for the cig lighter and PCM. It might have blown when you hit the wire with your drill. That fuse is always hot, even with the key off. Had you disconnected the battery while you were working on the engine? If not, shame on you.

When fuse 17 is blown your ODB II diagnostic port loses power.
 
<



jmvb

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 19, 2015
Messages
198
Reaction score
5
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Explorer XLT
I checked all fuses, under the hood and the drivers side ones, all ok

Yes, I had disconnect the battery while I was working.

The OBD port have power, but no communication... the scanner turn on, but do not see the ECU, and last sunday, it did...
 
<



boominXplorer

Elite Ranger
Elite Explorer
Joined
September 16, 2002
Messages
9,414
Reaction score
795
City, State
Virginia Beach, Va
Year, Model & Trim Level
00 4x4 Mounty
Check and make sure the 10mm bolt holding the harness to the computer is tight.
 
<



jmvb

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 19, 2015
Messages
198
Reaction score
5
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Explorer XLT
ok, checked all wires between the big multi wire connector side to ignition coil and the incident site, and all have continuity

Also I unplugged the ECU - PCM - EECV whatever and I applied contact cleaner and compressed air.

No joy...

It is there some way to test if the ECU is burned?
 
<



boominXplorer

Elite Ranger
Elite Explorer
Joined
September 16, 2002
Messages
9,414
Reaction score
795
City, State
Virginia Beach, Va
Year, Model & Trim Level
00 4x4 Mounty
Do you have a different key you can try? Usually a blinking theft light is only a pats communication issue.
 
<



jmvb

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 19, 2015
Messages
198
Reaction score
5
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Explorer XLT
Following the PATS flash code, I got the 1:6 pattern, Faulty link between PATS module and EECV

Tomorrow I'll do the pinpoint test, indicated for 1:6 Fault Here:

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/sdcrowder/2010-09-07_043819_pats_diag_01_explorer.pdf


My guess is: all wiring is fine now, but as I had a wire cut and I tried to start the engine, the PATS enter in some protection mode.
I have need to CLEAR the DTCs, but the PATS have blocked the power to EECV. So, I don't have OBD communication...

Or I still having some wiring problem
Or I fried my EECV...
 
<



koda2000

Explorer Addict
Joined
September 2, 2011
Messages
13,852
Reaction score
1,502
Year, Model & Trim Level
x
Yeah, I don't know about needing to reset anything. My guess is you have another damaged wire that is preventing the key code to be passed to the PCM. I could be wrong, but I don't think the PCM has the ability to turn off the fuel injectors if it's seeing the expected key code. From what I understand the key code is read by the transponder ring around the key switch and then passed to a buss, which relays it to the PCM. If the key code is recognized the fuel injectors are switched ON. If the PCM doesn't receive the expected code the fuel injectors are not switched ON preventing starting.
 
<



jmvb

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 19, 2015
Messages
198
Reaction score
5
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Explorer XLT
Ok, As I got the 1:6 pattern, Faulty link between PATS module and EECV

The procedure says U1147 ³ 16 ³ Faulty SCP Link or Incorrect PCM ³ GO to Pinpoint Test U1147. ³ ³ ³ ³ Calibration ³ ³

To pinpoint Test U1147, I follow:

SECTION 419-01B: Anti-Theft — PATS 2001 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/sdcrowder/2010-09-07_043819_pats_diag_01_explorer.pdf

Page 14

PINPOINT TEST U1147-: FAULTY SCP LINK OR INCORRECT PCM CALIBRATION

U1147-1 CHECK THE ANTI-THEFT INDICATOR FOR CORRECT OPERATION
No need to test, it is ok

U1147-2 CHECK THE PCM DIAGNOSTIC CAPABILITY
Retrieve and document continuous DTCs.
Clear Continuous DTCs
PCM Self-Test
Does scan tool communicate with the PCM?
NO
DIAGNOSE the module communication network; REFER to Section 418-00.


Still working..
 
<



jmvb

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 19, 2015
Messages
198
Reaction score
5
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Explorer XLT
Today, I did my last try before to send the truck to a workshop

I tested the pinout between the ECU and the OBD connector, all fine
All grounds ok

Also, I tested the pinout between the OBD connector and PATS module, all fine

The only strange thing is, the only cable which I accidentaly cut, was a Light Blue with black line

In the ECU pinout say "49 - digital transmition range (DTR) sensor (TR2)

If I test continuity between the pin 49 and incident zone, there is no continuity.

Bad luck....
 
<



jmvb

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 19, 2015
Messages
198
Reaction score
5
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Explorer XLT
In the worst scenario, If I have my ECU dead-fried by a electrical short cut, according with my research, it is not simple than just replace the ECU.
The ECU and the PATS are paired and unique systems... A new ECU need to be paired with the PATS, thing which is hard to do here...

What if I get a ignition key-PATS-ECU from a junkyard donor?
 
<



jmvb

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 19, 2015
Messages
198
Reaction score
5
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Explorer XLT
Fried ECU, shame on me

My problem was, I didn't check the drilled harness before to connect the battery and crank the engine.

I drilled, only take a quick look of harness and guess that all was fine.

After the theft light blinking, when the engine no run, only in this point I checked the harness and discover the cutted wire and others with the damaged cover and, which obviously, was in shortcut...

13707772_10154333266332402_4356736368317965052_n.jpg
13699967_10154333266647402_2374669863876619596_n.jpg
 
<



jmvb

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 19, 2015
Messages
198
Reaction score
5
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Explorer XLT
What if I get a ignition key-PATS-ECU from a junkyard donor?

Anybody?
 
<



CDW6212R

Hauls the mail.
Elite Explorer
Joined
June 17, 2004
Messages
22,357
Reaction score
2,719
City, State
Knoxville, TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 Limited AWD
Per our PM, if everything is now all good, except for the PCM, the easiest method is to replace just the PCM, and have it reprogrammed to the PATS module and keys.

Swapping the group of parts would still require dealing with the key cylinders. Those cylinders can all be taken apart and have the key tumblers swapped to fit a new key. But it's a pain just to R&R those four units, the ignition, two doors, and the hatch cylinder. I've watched three done for me by a locksmith, for my 99/93 truck.

It can be done, but I've read that more people have the PATS diagnostic tool now, not just the dealers. The dealers upgrade to new equipment every several years or so, and they sell off the old stuff. Call around and see if you can find a source to have a PCM reprogrammed for you. I takes 15 minutes for the tool to automatically erase the key codes from PATS memory. After that is done, the tool is not used to add new keys/codes. You simply put any key into the ignition, and the PATS accepts it. Then another can be programmed in by the normal procedures, etc. It's that 15 minute erasure process which is special, and the diagnostic tool does it alone.
 
<



Macgiobuin

Well-Known Member
Joined
June 12, 2006
Messages
198
Reaction score
9
City, State
Northern Virginia
Year, Model & Trim Level
01Sp2W 00Mtr 06B3k 96Astr
Your best bet may be to go to a pull-it junkyard and get these from a similar donor car:
1. a key (better to get one with 2 keys,)
2. ignition cylinder, (easy to get out if you have the key)
3. pats module, (behind the passenger air bag)
4. powertrain control module (firewall passenger side)

The trick is to get a matching set of chip key, PATS module, and PCM. Your transciever (the ring around the ignition cylinder) should be good. but if it was damaged, better to get that part, too.

The engine, transmission, and # of oxygen sensors (usually 4 for a '98 Explorer): ALL of these have to be the same as yours. You may as well get the door lock cylinders while you're at it. Otherwise you go to a dealer, have your car towed to it and have them make a new key that matches your PATS module and PCM security codes for outrageous fees, which may be impossible for you there. PM me for availability of parts I may have laying around...
 
<



boominXplorer

Elite Ranger
Elite Explorer
Joined
September 16, 2002
Messages
9,414
Reaction score
795
City, State
Virginia Beach, Va
Year, Model & Trim Level
00 4x4 Mounty
Your best bet is get a known good pcm, install and call a few locksmiths around you to see if anyone will just program your keys. You must have 2 keys. I recently bought a scan tool that can program pats keys. They are all over the market now and more reasonably priced for basic models which puts them in most affordable locksmith hands.
 
<



jmvb

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 19, 2015
Messages
198
Reaction score
5
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Explorer XLT
I'm in Chile, as far I know, we don't have specialized old explorer's Locksmith here... At least in my city..

The company's here, have the right to declare obsolete a 10 years old vehicle.
The local Ford dealer, don't care about our old trucks...

I got a ignition key-PATS module-PCM from a junkyard donor, same truck specs, same parts number

Today, the workshop guy was working in welding and isolating with heat shrinkable the cutted wires

I take off the transponder chip from a donor key and put it in the original key. Very easy to do.

Tomorrow, we will swap the PATS modules and PCM's... wish me luck

Thank you guys for all your help!
 
<



jmvb

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 19, 2015
Messages
198
Reaction score
5
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Explorer XLT
Ok, the explorer is back

Finally, the swap from donor to the key transponder, PATS and ECU works fine

The cylinder and the transceiver are not necessary to swap

The guy from electrical workshop, have a SUPER-scanner tool, I don't know the brand, but it is wireless

He was able to check the entire system, and do some things that I don't knew that can be done.

Example, he check and was able to turn on remotely the wiper, the dash lights (ajar - check gauge - seat belt) , engage the 4WD, turn on the interior lights, turn signals, etc

I guess that with the same tool he can erase the PATS codes...

Still having some idle problems.
The fuel trim in bank 1 is about 30%.

Some upper intake holes of torx screw was loose, so I guess that I'm losing vacuum from there.

But no more repairs for me, for a while at least

Cheers!!
 
<



Chris Crawford

New Member
Joined
January 19, 2018
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Location
Okc
City, State
Bethany
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 ford explorer
Mine is 94 Explorer, no chip key , just blinking anti-theft light that I've never seen in 4 months since I've owned this vehicle but I haven't jacked up with a tire issue fix tires, now won't start anti-theft light
 
<

Join the Elite Explorers $20 Gets rid of the ads!

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create and save more private conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.




koda2000

Explorer Addict
Joined
September 2, 2011
Messages
13,852
Reaction score
1,502
Year, Model & Trim Level
x
Tips - Your in the 1995-2001 Explorer Forum asking questions about a '94. Also your posting to a "SOLVED" thread which isn't a good way to get a question answered. I suggest you create a new thread for your issue.

IDK how a '94 pre-PATS anti-theft system works (as far as I know it just blows the horn), but when my pre-PATS '97 would not start, even after replacing the fuel pump, it turned out to be the crank position senor, which controls spark. So figure out which you don't have... spark or fuel.
 
<



Top