- Joined
- August 3, 2000
- Messages
- 31,683
- Reaction score
- 8,331
- City, State
- NORTH IDAHO, 7B
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- B2 "Slightly" Modified
- Callsign
- FOURTEN
These pumps get battery power
The pcm turns on and off the fuel pump relay the relay sends battery power directly to the pump
The later trucks (06+) computers use varying voltage to regulate fuel pressure, not these trucks
Powering the pump at the relay is fine, but it does not rule out INTERMITTENT issues with the power wires between the tank and power distribution box. The fuel tank wiring connector itself is where I have seen a lot of issues over the years.. corroded pins, corroded wires, not plugged in all the way from previous repairs, etc etc. this is the last test I do before I bite the bullet and drop the tank. At this point I have already tested power at the fuse and relay, checked or bypassed inertia switch, I rule those issues out first and quickly.
As I said before I drop the tank I give the fuel pump battery power directly at the fuel tank connector, it is a very simple test. You will hear the pump run and can tell if it is healthy just by the sound (also you can check rail pressure if you have a a test port)
Then with Voltage meter you check the truck side of things look for battery power with the key turned to on (just for a second, just to prime the pump)
You have power at the pump, this means the pcm, the fuse, the relay, and the inertia switch as well as all wiring to and from is good
The pcm turns on and off the fuel pump relay the relay sends battery power directly to the pump
The later trucks (06+) computers use varying voltage to regulate fuel pressure, not these trucks
Powering the pump at the relay is fine, but it does not rule out INTERMITTENT issues with the power wires between the tank and power distribution box. The fuel tank wiring connector itself is where I have seen a lot of issues over the years.. corroded pins, corroded wires, not plugged in all the way from previous repairs, etc etc. this is the last test I do before I bite the bullet and drop the tank. At this point I have already tested power at the fuse and relay, checked or bypassed inertia switch, I rule those issues out first and quickly.
As I said before I drop the tank I give the fuel pump battery power directly at the fuel tank connector, it is a very simple test. You will hear the pump run and can tell if it is healthy just by the sound (also you can check rail pressure if you have a a test port)
Then with Voltage meter you check the truck side of things look for battery power with the key turned to on (just for a second, just to prime the pump)
You have power at the pump, this means the pcm, the fuse, the relay, and the inertia switch as well as all wiring to and from is good