Something w/ rabbits. 72.5 pages of BS | Page 16 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Something w/ rabbits. 72.5 pages of BS

So seeing as spring is just around the corner, I thought I'd start a thread on the future undertaking of swapping in the Dana 60.

The axle is from a 1986 "Fawwd" F-threee "fitty", sporting some kingpins and a whole lot of rust. I took this axle apart a few months ago (except stupid me didnt remove the pinion nut before breakdown :rolleyes:) and had it hot tanked. I wanted it sandblasted, but the machine shop owner smirked and said "naaah yo, that junx is too big for my blasting cabinet" .. okay except he didn't really say that cauz he's old and a really cool guy. ANyways *twirls blonde hair*, this is my plaannn:

- WMS-WMS this axle is just a bit over 69" wide so I'm going to cut the passenger's side down a few inches to match 'ye ol General Motors 14-bolt axle. So this is going to require custom axle shafts and I think I'm going to go Chromos and 35-spline outers off the bat from the most awesome guys at Complete Off Road.

- Drive flange or lockouts? They are about the same in price and its a dedicated trail rig so I'm leaning towards the drive flanges. Right now, the cheapest flanges I found are the Teraflexes at $180 for a pair. If anyone knows of a better deal, please let me know :D !!

- High-steer arms and a double-ended hydroponics goodness ("cylinder").

- Opposite-ended panhard bar! The idea is to mount the chassis end of the panhard on the passenger's side frame rail and the axle end on the driver's side. Doing so should allow a more simple and cleaner design since the axle-mount can be mounted on top of or near the differential housing, instead of a tower on the passenger's side (like in my current D44 setup). I also plan to boost the panhard as far up as possible to increase the roll center of the front suspension. Yeah the concept is a little strange but I'm hoping it'll work and won't have any issues (no drag-link to factor into the design). But if anyone knows of any problem running this config, please chime in!

*EDIT*
- Detoit Locker for the carrier. I'm please with how the Detroit in the 14-bolt has performed so I figured I'd run the same in the front. Of course 5.13s to match the 14-bolt.


So here's the little guy, he's been in this position for the past few months just collecting dust:

DSC000871.jpg
 



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I truck like this needs to live on the west coast. He will be unhappy and break on you by not using it to it's full rock climing patential.:p:
 



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wow iz you have really done a lot of work since i picked up the old bumper.
impressive and its inspiring me to get out and build something

what model mig did you get again I think it was a Miller right?
 






I truck like this needs to live on the west coast. He will be unhappy and break on you by not using it to it's full rock climing patential.:p:
It'll be there -- I'm more anxious than you! ;)

wow iz you have really done a lot of work since i picked up the old bumper.
impressive and its inspiring me to get out and build something

what model mig did you get again I think it was a Miller right?
Thanks but its not as far as I would like to be.

As for the welder, its a Miller 180 - with "Auto Set" although I never use autoset because welding something on a flat table is totally different from welding something overhead or vertical. But its really nice and I can turn it down almost all the way and lay a bead on the body's sheet metal w/o any problems. At the opposite end of the spectrum, the thickest I've done with it is 1/2" (parts for the tube bender).
 






Yeah, I'll just take one of the empty stables :)
Not too many empty stables out here. Its a little known fact that there are more horses in San Diego County, per capita, than anywhere else in the good old U S of A. Yes, that includes Texas.:p:
You should change the name of this thread to Izwack goes insane and turns his Explorer into a rock buggy!:confused: The title is confusing, it leads the reader to believe you are just doing a Dana 60 SAS.
 






You should change the name of this thread to Izwack goes insane and turns his Explorer into a rock buggy!:confused: The title is confusing, it leads the reader to believe you are just doing a Dana 60 SAS.

Done :D
 






Not too many empty stables out here. Its a little known fact that there are more horses in San Diego County, per capita, than anywhere else in the good old U S of A. Yes, that includes Texas.
Must be a rich county ;) Its not cheap taking care of such a large animal.

Some update: i cut some of the back and installed the rear angle doodad and cross member:
chassis_rear1.jpg

chassis_rear2.jpg


Didn't get to finish all the welds on the plating cauz I ran out of MIG shielding gas. But no big deal since it'll be easier to weld the outside plates once the bottom sides of the body is removed (for boat-siding).
 






My dear God!! I leave a little and i come back to this!!?? Very nice.
 






:eek::popcorn:
 






You'd probably end up yelling at me for taking too long planning stuff .. staring and measuring for half an hour w/o making any progress. :)

That's OK. It will probably take that long for me to pick my jaw up off the ground.

It's definitely fun watching the progress!
 






WTF!!!:eek:


Ahhh Izzz...There's a hole in your floor...and somebody hit the front your truck and pushed the motor into the cab:confused:
 






Hehe :)

The radiator was ordered last night -- I went with a PRC 26" double pass, double row GM design (for all the GM/Chevy haters our there ;)). Stock photo:
double%20pass.jpg



This week I'm picking up the DOM tubing and start prepping for some preliminary cage work. Depending on the weather, on the upcoming weekend I might go get a BW-1350 and start the doubler doodad.
 






so is the plan to still have the back seat passenger hold the radiator in his/her lap? just kidding, I remember your plan was to put it in the cabin. From an outsider looking in who has a lot of tubework stashed in his truck I'd say on the front of that rear axle crossmember would be a good spot.

I'm sure you've seen this article since you are researching moving your radiator, but just in case, it's a good resource http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...e_radiator.htm
 

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Thats one option of radiator placement.

But right now I'm not exactly sure where the radiator is going to go cauz the fuel cell might be there and, between the radiator and the fuel, I'd rather have the fuel back there cauz that weighs more than the radiator (when full). I'm playing this little game trying to fit everything but still be able to remove and service parts easily -- the four contestants are: a 40-ish inch spare tire, a radiator, a battery, and at least a 12 gal. fuel cell. And the requirements is to keep everything as low as possible. I broke down and ordered the radiator cauz I was having a hard time trying to place it (and its fan) and calculate fuel cell volume inside an imaginary roll cage made of air. But after I get the radiator, then I can string some tape or whatever to mock up some of the cage components.
 






I made my cell 10 gallons and it seems kinda big. My stock tank held 16 gallons and I could wheel for about 7 full days on one tank
 






1) use this 17 gallon cell, mount it underneath your body between your frame rails behind your rear axle http://store.summitracing.com/partd...part=RCI-2172A&N=700+-128260+115&autoview=sku (I just measured it will fit every direction unless your rear axle is going backwards)
2) mount your radiator where I suggested
3) mount your battery where the factory subwoofer goes
4) mount your spare tire on your rear door but on a set of tracks that will allow you to slide it up on your roof into place and lock in or on the rear door. (this way you can keep the weight low and towards the back but if you get in an instance you are dragging it all day on a trail you can slide it up on the roof)

take good notes and fab every part twice, send the doubles my way including installation instructions.
 






I made my cell 10 gallons and it seems kinda big. My stock tank held 16 gallons and I could wheel for about 7 full days on one tank
10 gal. would probably work but I'm aiming for a little more cauz this rig is destined for Moab and the likes.

1) use this 17 gallon cell, mount it underneath your body between your frame rails behind your rear axle http://store.summitracing.com/partd...part=RCI-2172A&N=700+-128260+115&autoview=sku (I just measured it will fit every direction unless your rear axle is going backwards)
2) mount your radiator where I suggested
3) mount your battery where the factory subwoofer goes
4) mount your spare tire on your rear door but on a set of tracks that will allow you to slide it up on your roof into place and lock in or on the rear door. (this way you can keep the weight low and towards the back but if you get in an instance you are dragging it all day on a trail you can slide it up on the roof)

take good notes and fab every part twice, send the doubles my way including installation instructions.
LOL thats a tall order -- but yeah I'll make two of things and crate it up ;). Including a chassis.

But thats strange that you linked to that cell -- I think that is the same one that is now under my brother's Samurai. But I'm planning to make my own (out of steel, not aluminum) since it'll probably end up being a weird shape.
 






yeah, that may be a popular cell, might you say designed to fit between the frame rails of an SUV in the spot of a factory cherokee/grand cherokee factory tank (even though those things don't have frame rails).
 






this is such an awesome build.
 






I like it. I have never heard of someone doing something like this it sort of Crazy:crazy:. I am going to keep an eye on this one, looking forward to the outcome. Keep up the good job IZwack:thumbsup:
 



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Tired, gong to eat now.
sticks.jpg
 






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