Something w/ rabbits. 72.5 pages of BS

[fischerry]

hey iz i love the rig man,im dieing to see your cage up...are you gonna mount tthe rad in the rear what about fuel cell?I want more info please....

Oh are you gonna use only rtv,why not cut you own gasket with a !little!?rtv.With the craftsman ship you have and try to uptain.You know the rtv will eventually be eaten out by the gear oil.

 

[FROADER]

hey iz i love the rig man,im dieing to see your cage up...are you gonna mount tthe rad in the rear what about fuel cell?I want more info please....

Oh are you gonna use only rtv,why not cut you own gasket with a !little!?rtv.With the craftsman ship you have and try to uptain.You know the rtv will eventually be eaten out by the gear oil.

I just got so lucky and picked the right page to look for this post.

Thats one option of radiator placement.

But right now I'm not exactly sure where the radiator is going to go cauz the fuel cell might be there and, between the radiator and the fuel, I'd rather have the fuel back there cauz that weighs more than the radiator (when full). I'm playing this little game trying to fit everything but still be able to remove and service parts easily -- the four contestants are: a 40-ish inch spare tire, a radiator, a battery, and at least a 12 gal. fuel cell. And the requirements is to keep everything as low as possible. I broke down and ordered the radiator cauz I was having a hard time trying to place it (and its fan) and calculate fuel cell volume inside an imaginary roll cage made of air. But after I get the radiator, then I can string some tape or whatever to mock up some of the cage components.

 

[IZwack]

Hehe thanks FROADER!

Thanks for the gasket tip fishcherry -- I might go that route when everything is ready to be buttoned up. But gear oil doesnt really eat RTV -- cauz whenever you remove a differential cover, there is still has plenty of beaded RTV on the inside lip of the axle housing.

 

[fischerry]

thanks froader.
Izwack, if you put the fuel cell inside are your gonna block it off(fire hazard)and run a nascar/ off road wuick fill gas tube?

i understand that the gear oil woulnt eat the rtv if it doesnt touch but if one bolt journey's it's way loose it could cause the whole seal to fail...
It's just a tip on procautionary measurement's.whats the latest and greatest.

 

[FireZapper]

Why the talk of gear oil? I added tranny fluid to both the main case and doubler.

 

[IZwack]

Either or -- I dont think it really matter if its gear oil or ATF on the manual transfer cases.

 

[sn0border88]

I cant find it, but I think one of the doubler threads on RRORC had a debate over atf or gear oil in the doubler case. Supposedly you should run gear oil. I could be wrong tho.

 

[fischerry]

in every ford ive own'ed there was atf in the powersteering, tranny and t-case.after going threw two manual tcase's in m first 82 ranger i decided to use 85w gear oil in the tcase.if it matters,i use 90w gear oil in my powersteering and change my trans fluid and filter every 48,000.so that is every 16 oil changes for the non-mathaholics.

 

[sn0border88]

i use 90w gear oil in my powersteering

Id love to hear the reason why.

 

[94 Crawler]

fischerry
i use 90w gear oil in my powersteering

:scratch: Ok I dont think that should work so well. Also the pump in the transfer case will do a much better job of picking up atf, that is what comes in them from the factory. That is what was in mine untill I took it out at 236,000 miles. I may have changed it once. Also the correct sealer for transmissions and transfer cases is Anerobic sealer (I think that is the corect spelling) It is high doller but it is some good $#!+. It never hardens unless air gets to it and it is the onlt thing I have found to seal a m5od at the case halves. Most all late model transfer cases and manual transmissions use it. It is also used on the Oil pan on the cadillac northstar. If your surfaces are machined true that is all you need. Or you can go with the gasket sandwitch rtv gasket rtv like I did on mine. Just get the good stuff like GM pn 12346141. It kind of looks like clay but it will seal anything. even not quite clean surfaces

 

[fischerry]

NO HI-JACKING

So after i changed two power steering pumps in in the b2, and one day and emergency arrived in the resevoir so i used gear oil to get me home.and there was no whining or leaks.so i just continued to use 90w after i install the third. Now in every suv, or truck since.

What it should and shouldnt do, is an overuse phrase.But, thanks.

 

[IZwack]

Akaay so while I'm waiting for some cold rolled steel for the doubler to arrive, I thought I'd work on the rear axle.

So first on the list was to remove the old spring perches and shock brackets:

Then it was time to shave the boat anchor ... I mean 14-bolt. So after a bit of eye-ing the cut, I taped it up and removed the internals:

20 mins later:

The offending piece:

Traced the sliced piece to 3/8" plate and used the plasma cutter to make the replacement plate:

Then I spent about 20 mins preheating the housing and did a 4" pass with the MIG (then reheat, then another 4" and so on..). The inside was also welded with the same heat, weld, reheat process.

I slowly let the housing cool (over an hour) by applying heat to the cast housing at greater time intervals. After it was cool enough to keep my hand on it for a few seconds, I grinded down the sharp edges:

I gained about 1-1/4" in clearance. Tomorrow I'll shave down the ring gear diameter by maybe 1/4" of an inch and modify the cover.

 

[Stic-o]

can we get a picture from a little more distace to compare 1st or 2nd picture to current.

Thank you

 

[IZwack]

can we get a picture from a little more distace to compare 1st or 2nd picture to current.

I'll remember to take a pic of that tomorrow.

 

[sn0border88]

Why are you shaving the ring gear? I know *why* they are shaved, but it didnt look like you cut in that far.

Are you going to retap those holes? Drill new ones?

 

[IZwack]

The ring gear needs it -- just a little bit though, at least maybe 1/8" but I figured might as well go with 1/4" in case the bottom is dented upwards.

Yeah I think I'm going to redrill/retap two of the original holes.

 

[fischerry]

some very nice penetration you have there.did you use the plasma to cut...wait, im sure it's a no by looking at the cut there are no platter's or (begining/end cut) knots.So what did you use to cut the 14 bolt?band saw...?

 

[IZwack]

Oh forgot to mention that, it was just a simple reciprocating saw (turned to medium-ish speed) with a long blade and a bit of cutting oil to prevent overheating the blade.

 

[iammattchew]

super sweet!

I can't wait for you to find the next weakest link!

Good work!

 

[IZwack]

Shaving the ring gear in the housing would have introduced a lot of crap so it had to be done outside.

Choped up some 1x1 tubing and welded it onto some scrap. Large hose clamps held the carrier bearing caps onto the stand.

Taped up the openings of the locker so crap doesnt get in:

And then broke out the grinder. The grinder was angled slightly so that the ring gear and carrier rotated at a moderate speed while being shaved:

Ring gear was taken down to just a little bit pass the root of the teeth:

A bit over 1/8" of an inch clearance between the ring gear and the plate:

And Stic-O's request:

I was able to drill and re-tap one of the bottom diff cover holes but the other was just too close to the edge so I drilled and tapped another about 3/4" above the original. Tomorrow I'm going to try to work on the boat side doodas because the links are going to attach to parts of the boat side rails and I need to get crackin' on the links.